Comments on: Surf Tip: How NOT To Be A Donkey

By: jason

jason — Fri, 11 Nov 2011 19:05:17 +0000

Are there rare times when it is best to ditch your board?

I’m not very experienced, but I’ve been learning for a few years on and off now. Most of the time I certainly stay with my board. I certainly stay with it all the time if there is anyone between me and the beach. But if no one is back there, and if that random, fat, “rogue” lip is about to land right on top of me in heavy surf, I’ve found it best to just get away from the board. I used to hang on at those rare times until I got absolutely hammered and sliced by my board in the aftermath once.

By: Richard

Richard — Tue, 18 Jan 2011 13:25:32 +0000

Nice set of rules…..I turn 54 this year and continue to learn every chance I get. I stumbled across this website while looking up Robert August. What I do know is times have really changed….the number of people in the water have increased. This increases the danger factor. I continue to search for those times when the numbers are few, the waves are free and the sun is shining. This article really speaks well that all of us should show good form…beginner or advanced…most importantly is make sure you are a strong swimmer….I first rode without a leash….if you lost the board it meant swimming.

two things I do know is show respect for the water and share the waves

By: Esben

Esben — Sat, 25 Dec 2010 14:09:31 +0000

Good article! I’ve been surfing for two and a half years now and I can definitely sign up to 5b. I’ve been on both ends of that situation, and it’s definitely very scary to think just how fast a board can potentially be travelling straight for a person’s noggin. Never doing that again!

The last one made me laugh

By: timothy

timothy — Thu, 25 Nov 2010 20:53:58 +0000

Great article Hayley, I think of myself as always being a beginner. Due to the fact that as a passionate surfer, you tend to always want to learn something new and exciting! I have been surfing since I was a teenager. Now, @ 30, and being in the U.S. Military, I have traveled around the world and have seen many things that different cultures have taught me to be aware of when it comes to etiquette. We as surfers who have already have the understanding of surfing, should also keep in mind that we must be patient as well, but safety is very important and should always be first!! Second, in japan they like to huddle up and watch you the alien do something before they try it out themselves, in Italy they like to paddle out and “what I like to call bobbers” people who just sit in the lineup and bob up and down and don’t try anything but just stay in that one spot and don’t move. We as the better one should try and give them a hand in understanding the wave, learn how to read a wave and then explain how to catch the wave properly and safely!! I am a waterman, been in the water ever since I came screaming out my mother..haha. But, as a waterman you must learn to respect your environment and the forces behind it. Know what you going to do before you do it!! Have a visual and idea of what you think it will go before you go for it, and when you go for it..which in my opinion is the most important,..commit to it and don’t bail!!! Staying committed to something,.especially wave selection is very important. Cause you could be messing someone’s session and a chance to score a really good wave. But, Hayley, just wanted to say great job on your website.. have been using it as a reference to people who come to me asking for advice and were they could go for help. Keep up the good work!! Happy surfing and aloha. Timothy

By: Patty

Patty — Thu, 21 Oct 2010 18:39:42 +0000

Hi Hayley,
Great info, I had to chuckle at some of your comments. I live in Orange County CA. I am sure you have heard of the program ‘The Real Housewives of Orange County’. Well, there is a break I have been frequenting for years. It is good for beginners and experienced, depending on the day. Sometimes it gets too big for the beginners, so there is another break a few yards down where they should go. Two weeks ago the waves were pumping and I caught a wave and was paddling back. A wave breaks and I notice 2 ‘housewives’ in front of me. Mind you brand new boards, gloves on with the fingers cut out (WTF!) spring suits and booties. They looked like warriors. Well sure enough as the wave breaks this one throws her board and it comes flying at me. I duck, and say you really need to hold on to your board. She answers “I didn’t want to break my nails”.
I am a woman and like to look good, but if you are a SURFER nails come off, no need for make-up and what happened to safety? So before you paddle out read some rules, think about those around you, and forget about the mani/pedi!

By: Paul

Paul — Wed, 06 Oct 2010 00:26:05 +0000

you are right.

By: Sand Sock Girl

Sand Sock Girl — Mon, 13 Sep 2010 06:47:39 +0000

Thank you for make me aware of this very important information about surf etiquette. This is a big help for novice surfer like me.

By: Mick

Mick — Fri, 10 Sep 2010 15:22:56 +0000

OK, where’d you get the last photo?

By: Elizabeth Wasserman

Elizabeth Wasserman — Tue, 31 Aug 2010 07:42:00 +0000

I AM a beginner…only been out three days in a row now. Thank you for these very informative tips. I’ll do my best to be safe and considerate out there.

By: Hayley Gordon

Hayley Gordon — Wed, 25 Aug 2010 18:24:30 +0000

So true Dave! Everyone has to start somewhere, and experienced surfers have no problems with beginners that try to observe the established etiquette.

There’s also an influx of folks giving surf lessons without teaching their students the proper etiquette, and that’s also a problem.

And yeah…once saw a car that shoved their boards fins down UNDER the racks. It looked horrid, I should have taken a picture. Poor boards…