February 21, 2017

    Learning Languages For Surf Travel

    One of the best things about surfing is the ability to travel – and the fact that the hunt for perfect uncrowded waves often includes a trip to a new and different place.  Many of these places that you’ll go will involve a different language or culture – one of the most fun and challenging things about surf travel.  Since surf is being found literally all over the world, we are looking beyond the usual spots to some really far flung locations, such as China, Japan, Norway, and even Antarctica. Traveling to new countries involves learning at least a little bit of the local language.  Depending on how much effort you want to put in, you can learn a few basic words or you can attempt to learn a lot and have a few conversations with the locals.  If you’re looking to do a bit more and delve into a…
    September 12, 2015

    Staph From Surfing

    I’ve been pretty lucky in that most of the cuts and scrapes I’ve sustained from surfing have healed quite nicely without incident.  I’ve cut my forehead open and been stabbed deeply by a fin, been smashed by a rail and cut by the rocks and coral. So I was fairly surprised to recently be treated for a small skin infection that had nothing to do with a cut or scrape. It started as a small red patch on my chest (actually my boob to be more precise) that looked like an inflamed pimple of sorts, although a whitehead wasn’t really present.  I thought it was acne even though I’ve never had a pimple in that area.  I also thought maybe it was a spider bite (I have been bitten by a spider that got trapped in my wetsuit before.  True story).  It didn’t hurt at all.  It appeared about the…
    December 26, 2014

    Rareform Surfboard Bags

    Rareform is a new company based out of California that is making bags of all kinds out of upcycled billboards
    December 15, 2014

    Surfing After It Rains: Good Idea Or Not?

    It’s winter in Southern California, and with the change of seasons usually comes some rainfall.  A heavy rain after months and months of dry weather is bound to cause problems:  all the junk that has built up over the summer is now being funneled directly into your surf spot.  This can be a boon in certain locations, as rivermouths will suddenly get perfectly sculpted sandbars thanks to all the soil and sand.  However, even if it’s not the first rain of the season, a substantial rainfall can pose a serious health risk to surfers looking to catch the post-front swell that usually accompanies a rain. All the rainfall that drains into the sewers and out to the ocean is untreated:  that means that all the motor oil, pesticides, chemicals, garbage, and potentially sewage is carried straight into the ocean. Standard government warning is to stay away from the water for…
    December 13, 2014

    Rounding Out The Quiver: Small Wave Board

    I had done the research for weeks. I watched the videos. I read the specs. I looked at alternatives. I went into the surf shop three different times to pick it up and put it under my arm. And then I finally pulled the trigger. A few friends criticized my choice of paying a hefty sum to buy a board off the rack. However, I couldn’t be happier. I love this board. There’s something to be said for going to a shop and picking up a few boards and putting them under your arm. If you’ve got some experience under your belt, you just know when a board feels right. You don’t even have to ride it necessarily. It’s something intuitive that I have a hard time putting into words. Conversely, you can tell when a board looks or feels wrong. There’s a board hanging up in a Mexican restaurant…
    November 19, 2014

    Strange Rumblings In Shangri La – Review

    It’s been a while since there’s been a new surf video at the shop that I’ve been excited to purchase.  Globe’s Secret Machine is one of my favorite videos of all time, and when I saw the trailer for Strange Rumblings In Shangri La a few weeks ago I knew that I had to own it.  Directed by Joe G and backed by Globe, it’s a romp around the world that looks like it could have been filmed by Wes Anderson and produced by Jacques Cousteau.  The cinematography is breathtaking, the surfing impeccable.  The surfing cast is packed with talent and it’s nice to see a few familiar faces like Taj Burrow and CJ Hobgood. The premise of Strange Rumblings is a classic search for nirvana/the perfect wave/the endless summer.  We’ve seen this plot before, but let’s face it; surfers don’t buy videos for story.  The crew is looking for…
    November 5, 2014

    Buying A Board Off The Rack

    A lot of surfers I know turn up their nose at the thought of buying a board “off the rack”.   Too expensive.  Not supporting local.  Not “core” enough to order your own shape.  Valid reasons I suppose; to each their own.  I, on the other hand, have been known to buy a board off the rack here and there.  But every time I do it, I feel a twinge of guilt.  Of embarrassment. Now let me just say, for the record, that I have had about half the boards I have ever owned custom shaped.  I have even shaped a board myself.  I have purchased from local shapers.  But for some reason, when I want a high performance shortboard, I want that shiny one off the rack. It might have something to do with the fact that I don’t really have a set idea on what my next perfect dimensions…
    February 29, 2012

    Big(ger) Wave Surfing

    Whatever your experience level, you will be itching for a more challenging wave sometime! However, there's a fine line between pushing your limits and getting into a dangerous situation
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