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Chapter 12: Catch Your First Real Wave

Ah, yes. To catch a wave and ride its green, unbroken face is an amazing experience. Unfortunately itís also a very difficult skill to master for most people. Catching an unbroken wave involves a combination of ocean experience, timing, feel, balance, and plain old paddling strength.

Paddle out to the takeoff zone

Once youíve made your way outside the breakers, take a moment to observe where you are in the lineup. The lineup generally refers to the line of surfers waiting patiently for a wave. It can also be called the takeoff zone or peak. Beachbreaks often have several peaks where waves will break.


Etiquette Tip: Hopefully you have not paddled smack into the middle of a group of experienced surfers. This is a no-no in the world of surfing. Until you can catch and ride most of the waves you paddle for and have a handle on surfing etiquette, itís wise and polite to steer clear of the better surfers. When youíre learning youíre going to be wasting waves and falling all over the place. Experienced surfers donít mind beginners as long as they donít act like a kook and become a nuisance. Instead of heading for the main peak where most of the better surfers will congregate, try to surf at one of the other peaks down the beach where there are less or no people surfing.

Assess the situation

Ok, now that youíre sitting outside at an appropriate peak, sit up on your board and point yourself out to sea. Note how the waves come in sets and lulls, and how steep they are where youíre sitting. Learning the rhythm of the ocean takes time, and the ocean will have a different rhythm every day. Itís a good idea to just take a few moments to assess the mood of the ocean once youíre on the outside. Itís a slightly different perspective than from the shore. Also, take a moment to enjoy the beauty of your surroundings. This is one of the best parts of surfing!

Where to sit/Positioning in the lineup

The best place to sit on the outside depends on the length of board you have. If you have a longboard, you will be able to sit further outside since longboards are easier to paddle fast. If you have a shortboard youíll want to sit a meter or two just outside where the waves are breaking. Once you gain experience youíll be able to instinctively tell where to sit.


One of the longstanding feuds between shortboarders and longboarders involves the fact that longboarders can sit way outside and catch waves before the shortboarders can even begin to paddle for them. J

When to catch the wave

As waves approach shore they gradually become steeper and steeper until they hit a critical depth. Once the wave reaches a shallow sandbar or reef the bottom of the wave is abruptly slowed and the top/crest of the wave continues at the previous speed. This is what causes the wave to crash. These mechanics are the reason for different shapes of waves, which will be discussed in the wave science section of this website.


The point at which you want to catch the wave is when it is steep enough to push you along, but not so critical that itís moments away from breaking. Paddle for a wave too early and it will just roll right under you. Paddle too late, and youíll probably get sucked up the face and go over the falls. This is the part where itís helpful to have someone push you into waves, or an experienced friend to show you just when to catch the wave. Without those aids youíll just have to do some trial and error.

Executing the maneuver

When you see a nice juicy wave approaching from the horizon, lean back on your board and eggbeat your legs to turn yourself around so youíre facing the shore. Leaning back on the board will lift the nose out of the water and make it easier to pivot the board. If youíre swinging to your left, grab the left rail with your left hand and lift a little while you do this, and vice versa if youíre swinging around to your right.


Get yourself quickly into paddling position, and start paddling with strong, deliberate strokes toward shore. You can sneak looks back at the wave to see what direction itís breaking and whether or not youíre too far in front of the wave or too slow. If you think the wave is going to break earlier than expected, slow down your paddling for a bit and then speed up when the wave gets closer.


Once the wave reaches you, itís going to lift the back of your board. If youíve timed it right and paddled hard, youíll begin to feel the wave taking over and pushing you. There is a distinctive ďfeelĒ to this, and after doing it a few times youíll quickly know when youíve successfully caught the wave. When youíve got it timed exactly right, itís pretty sweet. When you feel that the wave has caught you, give a couple more paddles just to be sure, and thenÖPop up!


The first time you do this you might be so surprised that you immediately fall over. Donít worry, get back out there and do it again!

Angling along the wave

While youíre learning, you can just ride the wave straight into shore the first few times to get the hang of actually catching the wave. However, once youíve got that pretty much down, youíre going to want to start angling your board so that you can ride the face of the wave. To do this, you can paddle for the wave at a slight angle so that when you stand up, you only need to lean a little bit to get your board in trim. Trimming is when the board is effectively locked into the wave and is gliding along just in front of the curl or breaking part of the wave as it peels along. Paddling at an angle also helps prevent ďpearlingĒ or nose-diving. This happens when youíve caught the wave too late and/or youíre too far forward on your board.

Common Problems:

A few common problems that beginners often face can be solved with a few changes in technique.

Pearling/Nose-diving:

Make sure that youíre not too far forward on your board. When you paddle your board the nose should be 2-3 inches out of the water.

You may be catching the wave too late. Try moving further outside and paddling hard to catch the waves.

Missing the wave:

Check to see that youíre not too far back on your board. If youíre too far back then you wonít be able to paddle the board efficiently and get it up to speed because youíre essentially pushing the board through the water instead of allowing it to glide.

Paddle!!! One of the biggest things that beginners donít do correctly is paddle. They also donít paddle nearly as hard as they need to. The easiest way to spot a beginner is to see how someone is paddling. Make every effort to make deep, deliberate strokes. Donít ďlily-dipĒ or splash around needlessly. An effective paddling stroke should look very clean.

Donít stop paddling too early. Make those extra few strokes to make sure youíre in the wave.

Conclusion

Well, that concludes our beginners guide! Youíre now well on your way to becoming a great surfer. Remember to keep at it and, most importantly, enjoy yourself!

If youíve got any feedback or questions, send us an email at the ďContact UsĒ page.

Mahalo!




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