I had seen an ad on Craigslist for a 9’4” longboard right here in my hometown of Laguna Beach.  The price was only $100, so I knew that it was either in really bad shape or would be snapped up within minutes by some poacher.  I ignored the ad because I already had several longboards sitting in my garage.  To my surprise it popped up again a week later priced at only $75.  I had to call.  Turns out the seller lived about two blocks from my house, so I headed over to check it out and found the expected beat up old longboard that had been patched too many times to count.  As always happens, I bought it.  I don’t know what gets into me.  I liked the fast talking old salty surfer trying to tell me what a great board it was (Hey passion is always exciting, even if it is skewed).  I guess a part of me wanted to save the board and bring it back to life.

First I waxed it up and took it out to a local surf spot to experience what the shaper had created.  The board had a lot of rocker and it was hard to find a sweet spot when paddling.  Also, it seemed to lack stability for a surfboard of this size. It was probably suited best for bigger stronger surf, but here in California you get a lot of smaller slower waves.  I was about to take my last ride when I noticed the surfer who sold me the board paddling out to the lineup.  “It took me a long time to find a sweet spot on that board,” He yelled to me.  Okay, I’m changing the shape of this board was my next thought.

The board was about 23” wide and 3” thick.  I decided to cut a foot off each end which would make the length 7’4”.  This meant that I would lose the large center fin, but would still have the two sidefin boxes now located further back on the new tail.  Unfortunately the original O’fishl side fins were lost years ago.  My plan was to add two larger fins further up the board and ride it as a twin fin, and later try it as a  quad fin once I found some old O’fishl fins (O’fishl changed their fin boxes so the newer fins do not fit).  I wanted the shape to be an “old school” looking fish.  I found some free surfboard templates on the Green Light Surf Supply website and decided to base the shape on the Fishcuit design by Al Merrick.  The tail of the board was left extra wide to make a floaty/stable platform.  At 6’5” 215 lbs I like a little extra foam under my feet.

It was scary sticking the saw through the nose of the board for the first time, but it was also very exciting.  I immediately discovered that someone had reattached a completely broken nose.  I even found old rusty nails inside the stringer.  It was a mess.  I used every carving and sanding tool in my garage to reshape the board and remove the dirt and wax (and some awful yellow boat resin).  I was determined to use only tools already existing in my garage.  The only materials purchased were laminating resin, sanding resin, fiberglass cloth and white spray paint.  Oh, and a leash plug which cost about a buck.

O'Fish'L Fin

Then I received an unexpected phone call.  It was the guy that sold me the board.  He said he found some O’fishl fins on another board and asked if I wanted them.  So now my project board had fins for the rear boxes.  Of course when I got home and tried them on the board, they did not fit.  These were the newer version.  Oh well, at least they were longer than the slots.  All I had to do was grind the fins down until they fit.  The Dremel is my tool of choice whenever something doesn’t fit.  I used the sanding band attachment to quickly take a little plastic off the front of the fin.  And guess what? Now they fit.  I just needed to find a way to make them secure so they don’t fly out on the first strong wave.  I decided to drill small holes angled in towards the base of the fins so that I could secure them with a screw similar to an FCS fin.  They won’t be perfect, but hey, who has ever of a Craigslist seller making a follow up call?

After too much time sanding and scraping, the board was taking shape.  Two layers of six ounce fiberglass were saturated with laminating resin and placed on the nose and tail of the board.   Once the resin was hard, I trimmed the excess fiberglass and filed down any bumps or imperfections.  Sanding resin was brushed over the top of those same areas.  This is the first project where I used a resin product that reacted to UV rays for hardening rather the adding catalyst.  This was also most likely the last project where I will use the UV resin.  I loved the idea of using a resin that reacted to the UV rays of the sun.  The leftover resin could be poured back into the container rather than being thrown away.  It’s great in theory, but I didn’t feel like I could control the timing of the resin setting up, and often got caught with ugly bumps instead of smooth areas. This product would work better in a controlled environment, but I was mostly working outdoors which meant that the UV factor was prominent.  With traditional resin I can control the amount of catalyst and therefore control the amount of time before the resin begins to harden.

Because of all the discolorations on the original fiberglass, I decided to spray the entire board gloss white using Rustoleum Universal All-Surface spray paint purchased from my local hardware store.  My apologies to Evolution longboards, but I needed to get a uniform finish on the entire board.  The white paint actually made it look much less bumpy.  I realized that it would be nearly impossible to make the board look new, but the goal was to make it functional and fun.  Besides, imperfections can be beautiful too.

Glassed On Fins

Now it was time for the most intimidating part of the entire project.  I decided to glass on the front fins.  I thought about making the fins out of wood, but soon decided that it would be wise to visit a surf supply shop in California called Foamez and buy a pair of their fins so I could talk to the experts and get their recommendations.  Then I proceeded to watch every YouTube video on glassing fins along with reading a bunch of articles.  And believe me, there is a lot of information out there regarding glassing fins.  A couple days before I started on the fins a friend left his quad fin board with me for a day.  I proceeded to study and measure every inch of his fin area.  I was writing notes like I had just discovered a formula to stop aging (perhaps in a way I had).  Anyway, I followed all the directions and put those suckers on the board and they looked really cool.

The board was exactly the shape and style that I was hoping for, but needed some character.  I found some acrylic spray paint in the cupboards and decided to give it a nice Lemon-Lime vibe by spraying the nose yellow and putting a lime green stripe directly below.  I painted the fins to match.  She just needed one more element to bring her to life. I proceeded to Google hundreds of pictures of fish before I found the perfect cartoon which I recreated on the deck of the board using Posca paint pens.  Something made me draw those slitty little eyes, and the Lazy Fish was born.  I decided to put one last thin coat of sanding resin over the entire board to protect the paint and artwork.

At first I hesitated taking her in the water for fear of disappointment, but I finally got up the courage to take the Lazy Fish down to the same surf spot where I had ridden her before the changes.  I decided to set her up as a twin fin. The Lazy Fish felt a little heavy, but paddled easily.  She was very different from her former life.  The first wave I caught was a breeze.  The board was wide and stable for its length.  I felt like I was standing on a dock.  I started to wonder if I was trying harder with this board because I wanted everything to be perfect, so I asked my friend to switch boards with me.  He immediately caught three waves on the lazy Fish.  He would be the first to tell you that he never catches three straight waves on any board.  I was completely stoked that this board had become the laid back, old school cruiser that I was hoping for.

The Lazy Fish Is Born

So was it worth the trouble?  Well let’s just say that she was a true labor of love.   Even though reshaping a board is much harder that repairing a board, the experience of bringing new life out of an old discarded surfboard was extremely satisfying.

However, I do have to admit that the third time I took the board out the surf was much stronger and both fins got ripped clean off. Riding the Lazy fish without fins was a real adventure.   I discovered that the old resin and fiberglass under the fins was very weak and had easily separated under the pressure of turning and holding the heavy board in the wave.  I glassed on another pair of fins, but this time I used extra strong epoxy under the fins and glassed the fins down over a much wider area than recommended.  They have been fine ever since.  I also added the rear fins and have enjoyed riding it as a quad (the quad set up is a little looser which helps turn a board of that size).

Those of you who have always wanted to shape your own magic sled; I hope you will consider recycling an older board.  At least keep an open mind and keep an eye on Craigslist for that hidden gem.  It might not be the one you expected.

No related posts.

Gulf Wax, the real stuff

Tired of rashes that rendered me nearly comatose, and a surfboard that reeked of the smell of candy, I had had enough.  So I went on a quest — for Gulf Wax.

Growing up in the sixties, there was no such thing as surf wax.  Surfers either robbed and melted down all of mom’s candles, or they broke down and bought some Gulf Wax.

Gulf Wax is paraffin used for canning, candlemaking, and a variety of other uses, among others: surf wax. Back then, a box came with 5 bars and cost 50 cents. Break the bars in half and you had 10 bars.  A nickel-a-bar was not a bad thing.

“I remember Gulf Wax,” says Ponte Vedra’s Scott Collings. “I melted it in a pot and brushed it on the board with a paintbrush. Boy was my mom pissed for ruining her pot and my dad’s paintbrush. Worked well though.”

It did work well, and it still does. But it’s now 4 bars per box, and has skyrocketed to about 4 dollars. But that’s still a deal, and it sure beats smelling like a flower and nipples so sore they feel like they are going to burst into flames.

Gene Cooper, owner of Cooperfish Surfboards in Oxnard, California says, “I use it. I hate that greasy kid stuff.”

“I’m with you, Gene,” adds Gloucester, Massachusetts surfer Bob Wallis. “I hate that smelly, soft, boutique wax crap.”

But Gulf Wax is not quite easily accessible as it used to be, as I was soon to find out.

First stop: Michaels, an arts & crafts store on the Southside of Jacksonville, 5 miles away. They stock every kind of candle-making accessory and wax one would ever need or want, except of course, Gulf Wax.

Next: Super Wal-Mart (heck, they have everything):

Wal-Mart guy: “Can I help you?
Me: “Yes, please. I’m looking for some Gulf Wax.”
WMG: “Gulf what?”
Me: Gulf Wax. It’s paraffin, used for canning and candlemaking.
WMG: “OH! We ain’t got none.”

“We ain’t got none?” No wonder their prices are so cheap.

As it’s turning out, nobody’s got none. Now I’m out a half-day of searching, and in what I’ve spent in gasoline I could have bought a case of SexWax and one of those fancy rash guards.

Never! The quest continues.

Now, having already dropped a surfwriter’s salary in petrol, I decided to head back home do a little surfing of a different sort; the internet.

So, perched in front of my Mac, in my favorite surfing chair (which incidentally, is stained with SexWax from the bottom of my boardshorts), I’m surprised to find the elusive wax at, of all places, amazon.com.

And at only $3.99 a box, I promptly place an order. That’s when I’m shocked to find a shipping price of $6.29 for a grand total of $10.28. Unfortunately, I’m as frugal as I am stubborn, and a dollar-a-bar is not going to cut it. Not to mention, it will take at least week to get it.

However, while surfing the net, an e-mail check grants rave reviews for a previous article I had done on Gulf Wax, and quite a few recommendations as to where to find it, too.

Gene Cooper (yes, the Gene Cooper) of Cooperfish Surfboards, and a huge proponent of GW, responds:

“This is the clean s#&%. I get mine at Ralphs.”

Which is great for Gene, but he’s on the west coast. There are no Ralphs in Jacksonville, Florida. Likewise, Roger Brucker of Savannah pitches in:

“Kroger sells Gulf Wax. They still use it for home canning. Anybody have a bar of Purple Waxmate? I want to melt some in my van for old times’ sake.”

Ah yes, Waxmate, the original “greasy kid stuff” (and yet another story).

And, for what it’s worth, while Savannah is certainly the east coast, there aren’t any Krogers in Jacksonville, either.

Both Ralphs & Kroger stock Gulf Wax, but neither are located in Jacksonville, Florida

Finally a hit! Local surfer and dear, old friend David Lambert posts via facebook:

“Proctor Ace Hardware in Neptune Beach carries it – next to the mason jars. Wanna add some beeswax to make your own? Yell, I have bees.”

Now we’re talking. Gulf and bees wax! And Proctor’s is only a mile away. You rock David Lambert.

So I hop on my scooter and scoot on down to Ace. But alas, it appears others have read David’s post, as well. The jaunt to Proctor’s proves futile. They have sold out of Gulf Wax.

But darn it, I will not be deterred. There’s a swell coming, and my 9’4” Takayama will be clad in Gulf Wax, or nothing at all!

So, by now, I have circumnavigated Jacksonville with little-to-no results.

There were numerous trips to large-chain department stores, out-of-the-way hardware stores and a rickshaw-full of grocery stores. As it turns out, the grocery is where I finally found it; I was just in the wrong aisle.

Now call me stupid, but I was scouring the candle aisle, for it was indeed wax I was desperately seeking, only to find candle upon candle, most of which weren’t even wax. It seems like candles, which were once a terrific source of illumination, are now all about fragrance. Scented liquid with floating wicks, push button air mists, even types you plug into a wall, it’s all about fragrance now, which ironically, is one of the exact reasons I abandoned present-day surf wax in the first place.

You see, it’s all those chemicals they put into surf wax to make it smell fruity and easier to apply that gives you the rash. Not to mention how it sticks to your baggies and destroys your car seats and anything else it touches. Ever try to remove wax from your car seats? Can’t be done. I’m old fashioned. I seek those glorious, rash-free days of yesteryear, hence, the quest.

But alas, this quest appears to have been for naught. Despite an abundance of support from loyal readers and friends, my Takayama sits waxless, hanging on my wall like a relic and craving saltwater like all of those hopeless fish dotting the shoreline.

And just when I had given up…I stumbled upon my beloved Gulf Wax.

The “great find” began with a craving for grape Jell-O. I loves me some grape Jell-O, so I went to Publix. But apparently, Jell-O has taken the same course as candles. While you can’t exactly plug it into a wall (yet), searching for grape proved just as futile. There’s kiwi-strawberry, strawberry-banana, even piña colada and margarita, but no grape.

And then it happened.

A pitiful glance upward in a desperate sigh of frustration, and there it was.

The Publix ceiling opened to a chorus of “booo-wee-eee-ooooh”. A magnificent rainbow appeared, and the Earth stood still. For right there above the pistachio-apricot-mango-pineapple Jell-O was my long-sought-after Gulf Wax (not to mention, priced admirably at $3.19)!

The Gulf Wax was right there above the Jell-O all along

If it was a shark, it would not only have bitten me, it would have married me, divorced me and taken my house.

Thus ends the saga of a surfer’s quest for Gulf Wax, and now I must undertake another.

Do they still make Slipcheck?

Related posts:

1. An Interview with Ryan Gerard, Proprietor of Third Coast Surf Shop
2. The BP Oil Disaster – Timeline And Resources
3. Surfer’s Ear: It’s a Bummer

Imagine your surfboard defining your place in society. In Ancient Hawaii, it did.

Because surfing, or he’e nalu, was of such a spiritual magnitude in Ancient Hawaii, everything from praying for waves to the art of making boards was ritualistic. And the board you rode determined your place in the society’s pecking order.

Under the kapu system of laws, the ali’i was above all others. The ruling class surfed on one type of board, and the commoners used another. Even the type of wood used further determined social classification.

The Commoner

Commoner surfboards came in three lengths and were mostly constructed of wood from ula and koa trees. The introductory board to he’e nalu was the paipo. 2’- 6’ in length, the finless paipos were much like today’s bellyboards and mostly ridden by women and children.

Splitting a koa log

Once accustomed to the rhythm of riding waves, surfers would move on to the alaia. Suitable for standup, an alaia ranged 6’ to 12’ in length and was the forerunner of today’s surfboard.

After mastering the art of surfing, commoners would advance to the kiko’o, a board 12’ to 14’ in length, and, as you can imagine, much more difficult to ride. To master one of these definitely demonstrated one’s proper place at the top of society.

The Ali’i

The ruling class had its own board made of its own wood, the olo. 14’ to 18’ in length, not only was the olo a bigger board, but it was constructed of the more buoyant wood of the wili wili tree. These surfboards were very difficult to maneuver and further defined the class separation of kapu.

Shaping the koa blank with an adz

The ali’i even has their own breaks, and under kapu, any attempt by a commoner to paddle out among the elite was punishable by among other things, death.

Surfboards were sacred, their construction very ritualistic. Kahuna would search in earnest for just the right tree. Once found, they would sacrifice a fish as an offering to the gods and then stand guard over the specimen overnight under prayer.

Finer shaping was accomplished with coral blocks

Only after successful completion of the ritual, could the tree be felled, and once it was cut down, more sacred behavior and prayer was practiced by the kahuna.

First the board was rough-shaped with a tool made of hardened basalt, called an adz. Then, the wood was shaped and planed with coral or stone. Finer shaping was done with various grades of sand. Once shaped, the root of the ti plant or the stain from banana buds was applied as a form of sealant. The board was then treated with kukui oil to give it a glossy finish.

Treating the board with kukui oil

When the surfboard had met the kahuna’s approval, it underwent its final ritual of dedication, and only then was it offered to the sea.

Special thanks to Ron Croci for his brilliant illustrations. See more of his artwork on his website, http://www.roncroci.com.

Related posts:

1. Surfing: The Sport Of Kings
2. The Alaia Is Back

All it takes is one ride on a surfboard, and you’re hooked. It’s all you want to do. And if you do it too much, like dismissing chores or missing work, you stand likelihood of being coined a “surfbum”.

Not that Cliff Robertson’s portrayal of Kahuna in 1959’s Gidget did surfers any good, either. Gidget was the first major feature film on surfing, and when it brought the masses to the sport like never before, it also brought along Robertson’s portrayal of what many thought of as the typical surfer: A bum.

Now if you are a surfer, it certainly doesn’t insinuate that you’re a bum; it just means you like to surf. But who wants to be labeled a bum of any sort? Well, the next time you’re deemed as such, just inform the source that surfing is actually the sport of kings.

Tracing the origins of surfing, we know that the sport migrated from Western Polynesia to the Hawaiian Islands somewhere around 1000 A.D. But, back then, it was much more than just a sport, it was a way of life, bordering on religion.

All classes surfed, but the Hawaiian kapu system of laws was in place. Chiefs were tops, and they used the sport to prove their strength, agility and royalty over the commoners. They even held contests with land as the stakes.

Even the making of surfboards was a ritual. Kahuna would search in earnest for just the right tree. Once found, they would sacrifice a fish as an offering to the gods and stand guard over the specimen overnight, praying for successful completion.

Surfboards themselves, even further defined the social classes of kapu. There were four types, three of which were surfed upon only by the commoner: The Paipo, a short board, 2’ to 6’ in length and mostly ridden by women and children; the Alaia, 6’ to 12’, for the more agile surfer; and the Kiko’o, 12’ to 18’, for the advanced wave rider. The fourth board was the Olo. It was 15’ to 18’ and reserved for the ali’i, or ruling class.

And the ali’i did surf.

In 1810, when Kamehameha became the Hawaiian Islands’ first king, he united the islands into one royal kingdom. Not only was Kamehameha a great warrior and diplomat, the dude was a surfer, man!

King Kamehameha I

And the sport of kings was the sport of queens, as well. One of Kamehameha’s wives, Ka‘ahumanu, was a surfer, too. The couple surfed Kooka, a break located at Pua`a, in north Kona, often riding lele wa`a, or canoe leaping.

Queen Ka‘ahumanu

In, lele wa’a, surfers jump from an outrigger canoe, with their surfboard, and then ride the wave to shore. Not an easy maneuver, lele wa’a further illustrated the ali’i’s strength and prowess over the commoners.

A half-century later, missionaries came in and not only killed off the better part of the Hawaiian population with STDs, but they also considered surfing hedonistic and banned it altogether. But another king endeared to surfing, would come along to the rescue.

In 1872, upon the death of King Kamehameha V, King Kalakaua came to power and immediately reinstated the sport of surfing.

King Kalakaua

These are the roots of the sport we all love. Surfers are not bums. On the contrary, surfing is, indeed, the sport of kings.

Related posts:

1. When Surfboards Defined A Society
2. Surfing Dolphins!

AP Photos / Eric Gay

Although this is one of the worst man made natural disasters in history, I am hopeful that something good can perhaps result.  Maybe we will take notice of the horrible way we treat the planet as a society.  Perhaps people will become more aware of their own personal waste and overuse of things such as single use plastics.  Perhaps this will open our eyes and change our ways.

I strongly encourage you to get involved in some way shape or form.  Whether you go to the store to buy a reusable water bottle, pledge to bring reusable bags to the grocery store, or join your local Surfrider chapter, there is something that you can do.  Every little bit helps.

Please check out ESM’s excellent timeline and resource page here:

http://www.easternsurf.com/feature-gulf-oil-spill/

Join your local Surfrider chapter:

http://www.surfrider.org

Hands Across The Sand:

http://handsacrossthesand.org/

Rise Above Plastics (Surfrider):

http://www.riseaboveplastics.org/

If any readers would like to suggest any more resources on this topic please send them along and I’ll be happy to post them.

Related posts:

1. An East Coast Surfer’s Quest for Gulf Wax

Cold water surfing can be a great experience, but your ears might not think so

The first indication I had that something might be wrong – that a potential problem was brewing – came on a beautiful fall day in 2008. I had just exited the water after a fun, two-hour surf session and was walking back along the sand toward my car when I discovered that my right ear, which had earlier become plugged with seawater, would not drain. It didn’t matter how vigorously I shook my head or how much I hopped about on one foot while simultaneously and repeatedly slapping my left temple. The ear would not unplug.

I was plagued all the way home not only by the sensation of a plugged ear–which was bad enough–but also by a persistent and annoying slosh, slosh, slosh.

Having been a surfer for nearly 30 years, ears plugged with salt water were nothing new. I’d suffered through them numerous times before, and they had always eventually drained. But this time something was different. When my ear didn’t drain the next day – or the next several days after that – I began to grow worried. In fact, if anything, the problem seemed to be getting worse. I was having trouble hearing and the continual sloshing in my ear was increasingly driving me nuts.

Finally, after two weeks, I’d had enough. There was no point in prolonging my misery. I had come to the realization that my ear was not going to unplug itself, so I made an appointment with a local ear, nose, and throat doctor.

“You have external auditory exostosis,” he told me, clicking off his otoscope and dropping it into the front pocket of his lab coat. He had just used the instrument to examine both ears.

He didn’t have to explain to me what those three words meant; I already knew. And, in fact, I knew I had it because I’d been diagnosed with it several years ago. But what I didn’t know, at least at the time, was that the condition had grown exceedingly worse over the intervening years.

“Your right ear is about 70 percent closed,” he went on.

“What about my left?” I asked.

“That one’s alright,” he said. “It’s only about 30 percent closed.”

“How come it seems to be getting worse?” I asked.

“That’s because you have more than just salt water trapped in there. You also have ear wax, dead skin and other gunk.” He grinned. “It’s a regular primordial soup in your ear.”

I didn’t find his paleontological allusion particularly humorous, and I sat for a moment, staring glumly at the opposite wall.

For those of you who are right about now asking, “what the hell is auditory exostosis?” let me explain.

Otherwise known as “surfer’s ear,” external auditory exostosis (EAE) is a condition of the ear canal whereby bony, knob-like growths form and, given enough time, gradually close off the eardrum. These bone growths are called exostoses and are the body’s way of protecting the ear from prolonged or repeated exposure to cold water and wind. Although the condition is generally considered benign, it can lead to chronic ear infections, equilibrium problems, and, eventually, hearing loss if left untreated. What happens is this: The bony lining of the ear canal becomes irritated by long-term exposure to cold water and wind, which triggers an overproduction of the bony substance under the lining of the ear canal. This bony substance forms in overlapping, concentric layers, which slowly but surely build up over time and eventually protrude into the external auditory canal, like stalactites and stalagmites.

Surfers, of course, aren’t the only individuals who are susceptible to exostosis. Anyone involved in activities where wet, cold, and windy conditions are prevalent can get EAE. Divers, kayakers, windsurfers and even sailors, for example, have been known to develop the condition.

Steve Hawk, the former editor of Surfer magazine once wrote that EAE was a “stupid affliction.” He wasn’t suggesting that the people who suffered from it – like surfers and divers – were idiots for engaging in their respective aquatic activities. What he meant was that, in biological terms, the ear’s response to cold and wind exposure made no sense. It was, he said, akin to “blocking a harbor entrance with rocks to keep the boats safe, and then suddenly realizing that the boats are now worthless.”

I finally turned back to the doctor and asked, “So what do you think I should do about it?”

He sat down on the edge of the examining table and readjusted his eye glasses. “Well, there are a couple of things,” he said. “You could ignore it, because more than likely the ear will eventually drain. But that doesn’t solve the underlying problem, of course. You still have most of your right ear canal closed. And that’s not going to fix itself.”

“So, you’re suggesting surgery?”

He nodded.

My face immediately dropped. I’d heard of the procedure before, of course, and knew what it entailed. In the most extreme cases, an incision was made at the back of the ear, and the ear was folded forward like a thick slice of prosciutto. A surgical drill was then inserted into the incision and used to bore – yes, bore – into the ear canal, thereby removing the offending bone growth. Just the fact that a high-powered drill was involved – and would be boring into the very delicate bones of the ear canal – was enough to make a chill run up my spine. Utmost care and precision were used in the procedure, of course, so as to avoid damaging the skin of the incredibly thin ear canal, but as the saying goes, “accidents do occur.” Altogether, it was expensive, painful and, importantly for surfers, kept one of the water for several months.

The doctor must have seen my expression because in the next instant he put up his hand in a gesture the seemed to say “no, wait, wait!”

“Don’t worry,” he said. “There’s a whole new procedure for removing the exostoses that doesn’t involve drilling.”

He went on to explain that this new, less invasive technique, pioneered by Santa Cruz doctor Douglas Hetzler, was revolutionizing how EAE was treated. Instead of a drill, this new technique involved using a very tiny chisel and mallet to chip away at the exostoses. These tiny instruments – measured in millimeters – enter directly through the ear canal rather than the back of the ear. The skin covering the exostoses is carefully peeled back and the chisel is then used to scrape away the exposed knobs. No incisions were made, no flaps of ear manipulated like slices of deli meat and, most importantly, no drilling was involved. According to Dr. Hetzler, the drill can tear up the skin, which can dramatically slow down the healing process, and carries the risk of inflicting potential nerve damage.

Over the next several days – while waiting very impatiently for my ear to drain – I scoured the internet, reading up on everything I could find about the chisel technique. At first glance, it seemed almost comical. Using a tiny mallet and chisel to chip away at the knob-like growths brought to mind images of that scene in Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs where the dwarves are busily excavating in their diamond mine, hacking away at the walls with their picks and axes.

Still, the medical establishment had pronounced the procedure a wholly legitimate technique in treating the condition. In fact, the technique had become increasingly popular over the last several years, with more and more surgeons adopting it over drilling.

According to an article in the Santa Cruz Sentinel, Dr. Hetzler, who has played a major role in popularizing the technique among the surfing community, has performed over 700 successful EAE operations using the chisel technique. He has reported a ninety percent rate of successful healing, though he does acknowledge that the procedure is delicate and painstaking. Performing the operation, he said, is like “looking through a keyhole, working in a space that is no bigger than seven millimeters – the size of the end of your little finger at most.”
Dr. Hetzler suggests that perhaps the best way of preventing or at least slowing the growth of ear exostoses, short of quitting surfing (an impossibility, of course), is to wear earplugs and a neoprene hood or cap. He suggests that these, worn in conjunction with one another, provide the best means of combating the problem and helping the ear canal to stay warm and dry.

The chilly waters in Northern California are dangerous to exposed ears - photo: Thomas Garlinghouse

Given my obsessive personality, my reading expanded from learning about all the intricacies of the medical procedures involved in treating EAE to a broader understanding of the condition. And I was able to glean some interesting facts. I learned, unsurprisingly, that EAE is more prevalent in cold water surfers, especially those who are repeatedly exposed to water colder than approximately 65° F. The number of years surfed is significant in increasing one’s risk of developing exostoses. In other words, the more time one spends in cold water, the greater the likelihood of developing EAE. That’s why most patients develop the condition in their mid-to-late 30s, though there have been cases of people in their 20s developing it as well.

In perhaps the most definitive clinical study yet conducted on the subject, researchers studied a group of Oregon surfers in order to ascertain the cold water exposure necessary to produce exostoses. They found that individuals who surf 5 years or less (in water below 65° F) are unlikely to develop exostoses unless they are surfing greater than 50 sessions per year. Dr. Hetzler has suggested a different way of looking at essentially this same statistic. He argues that an individual who has spent approximately 3,000 hours in water colder than 65° F can expect to develop exostoses of sufficient degree to cause a significant narrowing of the ear canal.

I ran across other intriguing facts as I continued my internet research. I learned, for example, that EAE is by no means a recent phenomenon; it is, in fact, a medical condition with a long historical pedigree. Several pre-Columbian populations in coastal Chile and Peru, for instance, demonstrate evidence of EAE. One study, which analyzed more than 700 skulls from several archaeological sites in coastal southern Peru that dated back more than 8,000 years, showed a high prevalence of the condition among the male population. Evidence of EAE has also been found in pre-Columbian populations in North America, especially among certain Native Californian groups. At an archaeological site on San Clemente Island, one of the eight Channel Islands off the coast of southern California, a sample of human skulls yielded numerous examples of EAE. The researchers also noticed large quantities of abalone shells at the site. Putting two and two together, they tentatively concluded that the presence of EAE was likely the result of a lifetime spent harvesting these large aquatic snails – a task that required diving in the cold waters off the island. Perhaps most amazing of all was evidence of EAE in human skull fossils dating back to approximately 250,000 years – the time period of the earliest Homo sapiens.

All this information was probably more than I needed to know, but it did help me decide what to do about my ear. I didn’t want to end up like one of those Peruvian mummies – slowly going deaf without recourse to modern, technologically advanced medicine. So I opted for Dr. Hetzler and his chisel technique.

On the day of my operation it was cold, overcast, and drizzly. I hoped this wasn’t an omen of things to come. But when I saw Dr. Hetzler prior to the operation he was friendly and cheery. This immediately put me at ease.

I wish I could say I remembered something about the operation – at least for reporting purposes – but to be honest, I have no recollection of it whatsoever. I was under general anesthesia for the duration, and didn’t awaken until several hours later. By then I was lying in a hospital bed with my ear bandaged, heavily looped on Vicodin, with the offending exostoses having been reduced to tiny chips of their former selves and placed in a plastic vial by my bedside.

As the haze gradually cleared, I noticed my girlfriend, Lauren, sitting next to me. She had a distinct frown on her face.

“How’d the operation go?” I croaked groggily, trying to sit up.

“If you ask me that one more time I’m going to hit you.”

“Huh?” I stared at her in dismay, absolutely clueless, trying to figure out the reason for her sudden outburst of hostility.

“That’s at least the tenth time you’ve asked me that.”

Apparently, as Lauren was later to tell me, I had spent the last half hour in a continuous cycle of waking up abruptly, asking about the success of the operation, and then, without waiting for an answer, promptly falling back asleep. So, by the tenth time, Lauren was understandably exasperated – hence the hostility. Luckily, she didn’t stay mad very long and drove me home, gave me another vicodin, and put me to bed.

My convalescence was blessedly complication-free, with my right ear improving daily. By the end of the month I was eager to get back in the water. And, indeed, after the requisite 4-6 weeks of healing time, Dr. Hetzler gave me the go-ahead. Instead of running to the beach, however, one of the first things I did was make a bee-line to my local surf shop, where I plopped down twelve bucks for a pair of Doc’s Proplugs – rubber ear plugs specially designed to prevent surfer’s ear.

At the counter, a young kid rang up my purchase. “Those things are great,” he said. “They work really well. I’ve heard it’s a total bummer to get that ear problem.”

“Yeah,” I replied, “I’ve heard that, too.”

Related posts:

1. An East Coast Surfer’s Quest for Gulf Wax

Third Coast Surf Shop

Based in New Buffalo, Michigan, Third Coast Surf Shop is the hub for Great Lakes surfers – and a pretty cool store for surfers anywhere. Ryan Gerard took the time to answer several questions pertaining to his store and Great Lakes surfing. Do you want to know what it’s like to own a surf shop that’s located hundreds of miles from the ocean? Read on…

Michigan might seem like a strange place for a surf shop – to the uninitiated. Can you tell me a little about the history of surf shops and the surfing industry in the Midwest?

Surfers have been riding waves here since the late 1940s, when the first serviceman brought a board back from Hawaii. Over the years, there have been various retail stores which have carried surfing equipment, but only to a small degree. The only ‘real’ surf shop that we know of which existed before ours was in Grand Haven, Michigan in either the late 1960s or early 1970s. Apparently, it went defunct after a year or two. Even today, other stores which carry some surfing gear might be called ‘boardsports’ or ‘outdoor’ stores as they usually cater to other things as well as surfing (and surfing gear is stocked at a small extent).

Was Third Coast one of the first surf shops in the Great Lakes? How long have you been in business?
As far as we know, Third Coast Surf Shop is one of a very small number of stores which have focused on surfing in the Great Lakes. We may be one of only a couple (see above). We have been in operation since May 2005.

Where do most of your customers come from? Are they lake surfers, or do you get a lot of orders from all over?

We have a couple distinct markets; surfers and tourists. Surfers order through us (phone and web) and buy directly in store through the entire year, whereas tourists really only shop here on weekends in the spring and fall and throughout the summer. We have customers throughout the Midwest and Canada, and through our online store, we ship across the country and overseas.

Ryan Gerard photo: beer city snake

Is winter the best time of year for business, because the lakes are more active? Or, is summer the best time of year, because the tourists are in town?

Summer is our business’ high season as the town is full of tourists and second home owners shopping here and using our services (lessons, rentals, river tours, day camps).

Is it tough to stay in business?

I think it is tough for any small business owner, especially in the current economic climate. Fortunately, we have done the right things at the right time and our outlook for the future is better than ever.

If you could snap your fingers and magically move your surf shop anywhere in the world, would you?

Hmmm…tough one, but I would say no. This is our home, we love surfing in the Lakes and the people we meet, we have very little competition, and hold strong market share. You have to be a bit nutty to open a surf shop here, but we did and have captured a majority of the market. It would be tough to do that almost anywhere else.

What is your outlook on the future of Great Lakes surfing and Third Coast Surf Shop?

Surfing is special, surfing in the Great Lakes is unique, and Third Coast Surf Shop stands out. We are confident that we can continue to keep people stoked and live the surfing life in the Great Lakes.
Be sure to visit Third Coast Surf Shop on the web at: http://www.thirdcoastsurfshop.com/. Check out the online store, gallery, forum, blog, and more!

Related posts:

1. An East Coast Surfer’s Quest for Gulf Wax
2. Overhead and Nowhere Near the Ocean: Great Lakes Surfing

By Andrew Nash

Are alaias are an outdated relic from times long gone, a type of board that doesn’t bring anything new to the table? How could a somewhat simple slab of wood possibly compare to a typical foam board with all the advancements in modern surfboard design? In case you haven’t heard, the alaia is back – and it’s here to stay.

Hawaiian With An Alaia - Waikiki

Alaias are flat, finless boards that can be built using a variety of wood types. Paulownia is popular (and ideal), but you can make an alaia out of pine, redwood, or even that dusty sheet of plywood hiding in the garage. Building an alaia can be as easy as drawing an outline on a sheet of wood, cutting it out, and sealing it with linseed oil. Yes, linseed oil. You don’t need to glass an alaia like a foam board – applying several coats of linseed oil will do the trick. You can put a leash plug on the board if you’re worried about losing your log and excessive paddling (it’s always a good idea to avoid being a liability in the lineup). However, a lot of people ride alaias without a leash. You don’t even need to wax alaias – you can, but it isn’t necessary. Keep in mind that everything isn’t so simple with these boards. Alaias have a steep learning curve that can be frustrating for first-timers, but the rides are rewarding.

Alaias by Andrew Nash

Alaias come in different shapes and sizes – and have different purposes. Some are meant for riding prone, others for standing up on. Some are meant for small surf, others for epicness. I recently made two alaias (my first attempt at shaping) and I would recommend it to any surfer with a knack for do it yourself projects. The boards I built are very simplistic; I just cut them out of a sheet of three-quarter-inch plywood. If I could start the project over, I’d make a couple of changes, but these boards score pretty high on the fundometer and I can’t wait to build another one.

The first time I took my alaia out in the Lake Michigan surf I felt like I’d never have to touch a foam board again. I didn’t even attempt to stand up on the plywood plank on that day – not only were the waves pathetic, but I knew better. These boards are a pain to paddle, especially in the freshwater waves, so I just rode it prone in the shorebreak. Having said that, the speed and ability to spin were enough to seal the deal and riding these boards has only gotten better with time.

Maybe the whole alaia revival isn’t for you, but you’ll never know for sure until you try one out yourself. Depending on your ability and the conditions you surf in, you probably shouldn’t expect to stand up right away. But you don’t need to stand up to have fun on an alaia. Even though prone probably doesn’t sound too exciting, it’s a different game on these things. Plus, you can ride small waves that you wouldn’t even think of catching on foam. But the alaia shouldn’t be cut short to small talk about riding tiny waves on your stomach – if you watch some of the better videos on YouTube you’ll see how amazing these boards really are.

If you don’t feel like building an alaia yourself, you can order one from the pros. Surfing Magazine’s 2009 Shaper of the Year Tom Wegener (http://www.tomwegenersurfboards.com/) sells some nice models that will ride much better than a crusty piece of plywood.

Related posts:

1. When Surfboards Defined A Society
2. Surfing: The Sport Of Kings

The Courts Have Weighed In. No Kooks.

Kooks beware.

A surfer in Nova Scotia, Canada has been awarded a $750 settlement covering a dinged surfboard from a fellow surfer who failed to paddle behind him while he was up and riding the wave.

Basically the rule is that if you’re paddling back out and someone is up and riding a wave, you should paddle behind him towards the whitewater.

Sources say that the plaintiff had good legal representation, although this is not confirmed.  However, the fact that this was upheld in court is a bit alarming to say the least.  Surf rules aren’t state rules…they are there to guide surfers and keep the water safe and enjoyable for everyone.

The court summary of this case and the determination of the settlement was based on the fact that the defendant was basically…a kook.

“I agree with the Defendant that these rules of etiquette are not binding in law on this Court.  A breach of the rules of etiquette is not in and of itself a confirmation that there is negligence.  However it can be an indicator that there may have been negligence.

In this particular case, the Defendant and inexperience surfer and who  as he indicated may have been encouraged by his friends to increase his level of competency headed out towards larger waves, in this case, 5 to 7 foot breakers.  The Defendant attempted to the best of his ability to paddle over the shoulder of the wave.  This clearly indicates that he was not planning to ride this particular wave but rather to get out of the way.   The Defendant indicated that he was not that intelligent nor did he read surfer magazines or publications on surfing however he did present himself as very knowledgeable on what he should or should not do and he did realize that he did not have that much ability as a surfer.  I would have to conclude on the evidence before me that he breached the standard of care required in this situation.  If he had done or taken other action this may have been avoided.”

In other words, the defendant is guilty because he isn’t intelligent, doesn’t read Transworld Surf, and he realized he was a kook.  Therefore he shouldn’t have been out there.

You simply have to read the entire case summary over at CanLII.  As hilarious as this case is, (and perhaps it’s a good way of keeping kooks out of the water) I have to raise a resounding Are you freaking kidding me? 

Dan Michaluk, reporting for Slaw.ca, has said it perfectly:

“With all the imprecision associated with a good surf session one might wonder if the voluntary assumption of risk rule (raised unsuccessfully in this case) should prevail. In more animated terms, surfing etiquette is about being conscientious, but shit does happen.”

For more:

Slaw.ca Commentary And Source

CanLII Official Small Claims Court Writeup

Related posts:

1. Surfing Dolphins!
2. Surfing: The Sport Of Kings

Greg Huglin was so fascinated by the dolphin’s antics that he made it an obsession to film and photograph them.  The result are some photos and video clips that are simply stunning to behold.

Image: Greg Huglin / greghuglin.com

Check out this article over at DailyMail.co.uk for more images, and check out Greg’s Website.

Greg has just released a short film called Surfing Dolphins.  You can buy the movie from TheSurfNetwork.com, and it will soon be available from Amazon.

Surfing Dolphins Movie Poster

Related posts:

1. Surfing: The Sport Of Kings
2. The Drifter