There’s an oozing sensation brewing in your belly.  You’re a little tired paddling back out in the midst of a set, you’re trying to make it under each next up and coming wave, and you’re doing your best to watch, and watch out for on coming shredders throwing buckets out of each turn down the line as they approach you.  As you barely make it over another set wave, a surfer in perfect flow drifts and fades low to the bottom of the wave, letting him/herself get right behind the foam ball.  As you crest over the wave they’re on as you continue to paddle out, the surfer goes out of site for a few seconds…  You look back, and woosh, splitter, gcrash! Buckets of water are hucked out the back of the wave, leaving you drenched, enamored, and longing to someday be that guy or girl who throws those buckets yourself.

If you know that feeling, Then here’s a few basic steps you’ll need to hurl yourself as the new bucket slinger in town:

*  Yes, yes, yes, speed is the key.  The faster you go, the more spray potential…but we all knew this.  Ok, lets begin.

**   Visualization-  Have you ever noticed in surf videos that most surfers who are hitting the lip right in the crease between the foam ball and the lip, began the entire turn from behind the foam ball.  Basically, what you need to do when you’re going down the line, pumping and getting your speed, is think about the fact that you need to get to the bottom of the wave, behind the foam by fading the wave, so that you can then come from behind it with speed and really eye up the section you want to hit.

1.  The idea is that you need to fade your bottom turn behind the wave, behind the foam ball, so that you can see the corner pocket of the section you want to hit.  When you can see the pocket curling down the line, then you just practice, over and over, getting your timing down so that you can come straight up and get it.

2.  When you get to the corner pocket, rotate with your arms, then push as hard as can with your back leg;  this is how you throw buckets!

3.  Don’t celebrate too early, the wave is not over.  Fade your bottom turn behind the foam ball again, always keeping your eyes on the corner pocket that your going to time and come back up and hit again all the way down the line!

Click To Expand This Photo Diagram

Contrary to popular belief, summer is not a season that excites most surfers in northern and central California. Regardless of how the stereotype of sun, sand, surf, and bronzed bodies is portrayed, most surfers in the region view the summer months with a mixture of emotions ranging from frustration and disgust to resignation and grudging acceptance. It is, more often than not, the time of year when one’s favorite board is stowed away in the back of the garage and the small wave boards – the logs, the fishes, the hybrids, and the funboards – are dusted off and carried out into the light of day.

Summer in northern California is generally characterized by marginal surf and agonizingly long flat spells. These, coupled with ferociously strong afternoon winds and crowded beaches, make the summer months not something to be enjoyed but, rather, something to be endured.

Understanding why summer surf in northern California is less-than-advertised requires some basic knowledge of meteorology combined with local weather patterns. The two dominant pressure systems over the northeast Pacific Ocean that affect weather and swell patterns in California are the Aleutian Low and the North Pacific High. During the fall and winter months, the northern hemisphere undergoes its peak season of storm activity. Much of this activity is a result of the Aleutian Low, which, as its name implies, is located in the Gulf of Alaska, near the Aleutian Islands. Like all low pressure systems, it is associated with strong winds, clouds, rain, and generally stormy weather. It is responsible for generating most of the northwest groundswells that batter the California coast during fall and winter. However, during the summer, the Aleutian Low breaks down and is replaced by a large high pressure system – known as the North Pacific High – which migrates northward and develops over the northeastern Pacific Ocean. It sits like the proverbial 800-pound gorilla, affecting nearly all weather patterns that come its way. Most east moving storm tracks are deflected north of the North Pacific High, and thus few storms develop. This results in a significant lack of groundswell waves along the northern and central California coast.

Even the vaunted California stereotype of lazy summer days filled with spacious blue skies and abundant warmth doesn’t quite live up to the hype in this part of the state. Mark Twain was once reputed to have said that the “coldest winter I ever spent was a summer in San Francisco.” He was referring, of course, to the typical pattern of dense fog and overcast skies that typically congregate along the coast during summer. This phenomenon is known as “June gloom,” and is largely a result of the pesky aforementioned North Pacific High, which among other things, generates northwesterly air flow. These northwesterly winds push warm surface waters away from the coast, causing “upwelling.” As every oceanographer knows, upwelling is when colder, nutrient-rich water from deeper depths rises to replace warmer surface waters. This colder water, in turn, interacts with the warmer air and condenses, creating a thick layer of fog. This fog bank typically develops in the morning and burns off by the afternoon, though an entire day of lingering June Gloom is not unheard of.

Strong afternoon winds are also a typical characteristic of summer. These usually appear like clockwork in the early afternoon and can gain strengths of between 10 and 15 knots. They are mainly produced by the North Pacific High in conjunction with hotter interior temperatures. As interior air heats up during the day, it rises, creating low pressure over land. Onshore winds rush in to fill this vacuum of low pressure. These winds can wreak havoc on a surf session by mercilessly chopping the water, creating all manner of bumps and warps that make surfing a challenge.

Afternoon seabreeze can wreck the already small waves

This is not to say, of course, that summer is completely devoid of rideable waves. Notice that I’ve couched the above discussion in words and phrases like “generally,” “frequently,” and “more often than not.” Southern groundswells, generated by winter storms in the southern hemisphere, do occasionally reach the central and northern California coasts. And when they do, they can be epic. Having traveled several hundred miles across the ocean, they have had a chance to organize themselves into long, well-groomed “wave trains.” By the time they hit the reefs, points, and sandbars they can be big, powerful, and flawless – definitely something worth waiting for.

Given all this, then, what’s a Norcal surfer to do? What’s the best way to survive – and perhaps even prosper – during the summer doldrums? Simply hunker down in front of a surf forecast website with a six pack of beer and a bag of chips and hope for the southern hemisphere to throw some swell up north? That’s one possibility, of course, though one that would no doubt get tedious after a while (and fattening). Another possibility is to dedicate oneself to riding crappy wind swell (wind swell waves are produced by localized winds that blow not too far offshore and are characterized by short wave intervals). Although most wind swell waves wouldn’t win any aesthetic awards – they are usually ragged, bumpy, and sloppy – they nonetheless can be fun to ride under the right conditions. And – little known secret – riding crappy waves is actually a great way to improve your overall surfing. If the wave doesn’t offer you much – and most wind swell waves don’t – then it’s your responsibility to make things happen. Riding wind swell forces you to make the most out of each wave and to be creative. In fact, wind swell can actually teach you about all the intricate dynamics of surfing – for instance, how subtle changes in foot placement on your board can dramatically influence your surfing. For example, generating speed on groundswell produced waves doesn’t pose much of a problem. More often than not, it happens by default; other times it requires nothing more taxing than a well-executed bottom turn, where you generate speed as you rush down the face of the wave. However, it takes more of an effort to generate speed on wind swell waves. If the rider doesn’t actively intervene by pumping up and down, weaving from side to side, or staying high up on the wave, then he or she will inevitably stall out. Learning these kinds of subtleties can go a long way in improving your overall surfing.

Typical June Gloom summer day at Waddell Reef

Riding crappy wind swell is also a great time to work on perfecting your maneuvers. View it as a time to practice all those cut-backs, floaters, and lip-bashes you’ve been dreaming about. Maybe you can even throw in an aerial or two. In short, your surfing doesn’t have to be lousy just because the waves are sub-par.

Luckily, there are several other options for surviving a northern California summer. Travel, for one. Summer in northern California is a good time to pack up the boards and get the hell out of Dodge. Seek greener pastures – or in this case, bluer waves – elsewhere. With the southern hemisphere awakening from its own long slumber, numerous places open to a direct southern swell window, like Central and South America, are at their best wave-wise. And for those with deep pockets, make note that places in the Indian Ocean, like Indonesia, the Maldives, and Western Australia, have some of the best surf on the planet. They don’t call the Mentawai island chain the “Disneyland of waves” for nothing.

Still, if certain factors prevent one from traveling, like lack of funds or a hostile spouse, there are other ways of passing the time. The height of a summer lull is a great time to break out that huge paddleboard that’s been gathering cobwebs in your garage. Paddleboarding, whether the current stand up craze, called SUP (for Stand Up Paddling), or the old fashioned prone-on-your-stomach, is a great workout. The New York Times once described it as a “kind of gym in the water.” It’s a full body workout that strengthens the core and provides cardiovascular benefit as well as toning the arms, shoulders and back.

At Waddell Reef, this surfer is just looking to get wet

If, on the other hand, you happen to be landlocked, there are a myriad of things you can do to stay in surfing shape. While most surfers have tended to eschew the label of athlete, surfing is, in fact, a physically demanding sport that requires of its practitioners a goodly amount of physical coordination, balance, and skill. As such, being in good physical shape will help you to be a better surfer. There are several very good exercise DVDs designed specially for surfers that are currently on the market. Taylor Knox, one of my favorite professional surfers, recently put out a workout DVD entitled “Surf Exercises” that emphasizes balance, core strengthening, and stretching – all of which are crucial in advancing your surfing to a higher level. Equally instructive is the DVD “Surf Stronger – The Surfer’s Workout,” which was developed by a strength conditioning specialist and focuses on developing power and flexibility using a fitness ball, light weights, and one’s body weight. It stresses building and strengthening muscles that are typically used in surfing – including the arms, abdomen, and thighs.

For surfers who don’t like strict workout regimens, there are numerous other ways to keep in surf shape during the summer months. Running is one way to develop cardiovascular fitness; vigorous hiking or biking are others. Playing sports like basketball, flag football, soccer or tennis, among many others, are great ways to stay in shape. Yoga is another excellent way to keep the body flexible, supple, and healthy.

The bottom line is to keep active – do something that gets your heart rate up for at least 20 or 30 minutes. (Of course, before undertaking any fitness program consult your physician.).

In short, while summer in northern and central California can often be a challenge for surfers, there are numerous ways to pass the time and stay in top surfing trim. It just requires a little imagination and a willingness to try new things. So, even if the waves suck, get out there and have fun!

So let’s start out as cliche as possible: …like any maneuver in surfing, speed is the number one key to successfully completing your turns.
Phew…now that that’s over…

Seriously though, when trying to successfully complete a 360 reverse off the white water, speed is an asset, but it’s what you do with that speed by controlling it through the turn that has the greatest impact.

Angles: The number one thing to know, with any successful maneuver, is your angles. So as you study the slideshow, and you try to visualize yourself completing this maneuver, be very cognizant of the angles in which my board, head, and arms are facing.

1. When you come towards a white wash section that is heading straight at you, instead of taking a steep bottom turn, you actually hardly want to take a bottom turn at all. Rather, you want to stay high on the wave.
2. As you come to meet the foam section, the number one thing to remember is that before you go for the grab, you need to bank your board off the on-coming foam, making very sure that your intent is to bring the nose of your board to the bottom of the wave, the bottom of the foam, before you go for the grab and spin.
3. Interlude: Obviously this all happens very quickly, however, you just want to be attempting to get the nose of the board down towards the bottom of the on-coming white wash foam right before you simultaneously go for the grab.
4. Go for the grab later than you would think you should. Rotate your body first, and then once your body and head are twisting for the bottom, grab.
5. Once you grab, you don’t even really have to pull on your board at all if your angle is heading down the face of the wave, as mentioned above. The grab will help you stay centered over your board and will also quickly release the fins from the wash, which is crucial.
6. OK, this is the critical moment: As your fins release and whip around, continue to look in the direction you want to go! If you really want to complete the 360, then continue twisting your head in the direction that you want to go, stay centered over your front foot, hang on, and don’t give up on yourself even though going backwards is going to be a little scary.
7. If you can make it past 180 degrees and you stay committed to looking in the direction that you want to go, you will have a moment of release where your fins will catch and spin you quickly the rest of the way around to 360. So stay committed!
8. After you ride it out, paddle out calmly like it happens all the time, whether it’s your first one ever, or just your first one of the day.

Synopsis: Remember, start high, head towards the bottom of the on coming white wash, then grab, don’t give up when you get scared going backwards, continuing twisting your head in the direction you want to go, and Voila, you’re now a 360 spinner!

Re-waxing my board is not really something I look forward to anymore, especially with my longboards.  It’s messy, time consuming, and I’d much rather be  surfing.  However, sometimes you just can’t avoid it.  And, as I was recently reminded, re-waxing will give you the opportunity to examine your board for dings hidden by the months of built up, dirty old wax.  A fresh wax job on your board is the next best thing to getting a new board.  I don’t do it often enough, but when I do take the time to apply a fresh coat my board looks about a thousand times better.  Also, wax gets heavy over time, and can definitely add weight.  Just feel how heavy all the old wax is when you’ve taken it off.  And then of course  is everyone’s favorite reason to re-wax: surf trips.  This means taking off that cold water wax and putting on the tropical.

1.) Choose a location

Outdoors is preferable.  You’re not going to be able to keep all the wax off the floor no matter how neat you try to be, and it’s not that desirable to grind wax into your carpet or hardwood floor.  You’ll also need to leave your board out in the sun for a good 5 minutes to allow the wax to soften enough to the point where removing it is a breeze.  If you don’t let it soften you’ll have a hard time scraping it off.  If you have to do this in winter, you can lay down some newspaper and use a hair dryer (be careful, don’t burn your board).

2.) Protect your board

Lay down a bunch of towels, use a couple of padded sawhorses, or do it on the grass.  Just don’t put your poor board on the concrete and start scraping away at the wax.  No bueno.  Also – try to avoid putting too much pressure on the fins.  I think shortboard fins are a little more sturdy, but the length of longboard skegs makes them extra vulnerable.  Just be safe take them out if you have to lay the board on a flat surface.

Two small wicker end tables make a good stand

3.) Find a wax remover

Sometimes surf shops sell special wax scrapers / combs.  I think one is called a Wax Buddy.  However, you can go super cheap and use an old gift card or similar credit card type piece of plastic.  Don’t use metal scrapers – that will wreck your board.  There’s also something called a Pickle.  Has anyone tried this?

4.) Scrape it down

There’s something very satisfying in taking out a big swathe of old, black wax and revealing that beautiful white board underneath.  Bet you didn’t remember your board looked that good, huh?  I like to put all the wax in an old grocery bag as I work.  Some people like to mash it together and make sculptures.  Whatever floats your boat.

Nothing fancy - I used an old Best Buy gift card from Christmas

5.) Buff it out

I like to take a couple paper towels and buff out the remaining wax that might have been left on.  This really only works if the wax is still pretty soft from sitting in the sun.  Firm pressure will remove most of that leftover wax, especially from out of any pressure dents.  You don’t need to use chemical wax remover (unless you’re trying to affix something adhesive to your board, like a tail pad or Go Pro camera – then you definitely should use it).

6.)  Inspect for dings

I recently took all the wax off of my longboard.  While I was doing so I noticed a tiny water droplet appear near the rail.  I hadn’t used the board in a few days so I knew it should be completely dry.  Upon closer inspection I noticed the water droplet was oozing out of a very small crack in the fiberglass.  So small, in fact, that it would have gone completely unnoticed unless I had been putting pressure on that point.  Any dings that are not watertight will ruin your board over time, allowing it to get waterlogged and eventually delaminate.  I’m so glad I found it when I did, or I may have never noticed it at all.  Unfortunately I don’t know how long it was there, but at least I did find it.  Sometimes you won’t know that you got a ding, especially if it’s covered by wax.  So I learned my lesson: take the time to re-wax even if it’s just so you can find those hidden dings.  In my case, I had left the wax on my longboard since September….that’s 7 months.  Time flies when you’re having fun!

A tiny drop of water seeps out when the ding is pressed. Not good!

7.)  Wax it up

If you haven’t found any dings that need attention, then it’s time to wax it back up.  This is best done in the shade, out of the direct sun.  Apply a basecoat first–this can really help the wax stay on and bead up nicely.  Use firm pressure and alternate rail to rail, tip to tail to get those nice, even bumps.  Once you’ve got a light base coat, apply the proper temperature wax.

8.) Go surf!

~~~

We have a huge wax guide here at Surf Wax 101. However, after re-waxing my board and finding that hidden ding that was obviously letting water in, I decided it was good to remind everyone to check their boards out from time to time.  I think with longboards it’s even more important – they’re expensive and people usually want them around for a long time.  Also, waxing a longboard from tip to tip is a super pain in the neck so I think people are more apt to put it off.

Photo by Ashley Beth

Is it wise for a non-professional to try and fix a longboard that has snapped in two?  Probably not.  Therefore, I knew I had to go for it.  She was a nine foot Iron Cross longboard shaped by Peter Cross.  I bought her from someone on Craigslist for $100 and I could see that some patchwork had already taken place across the middle of the board.  Otherwise She looked pretty good for the money.  It was only day two when I felt the bottom give out under my feet as I dropped in on a tame three foot wave.  A quick glance at the guts of this stick and a rotted stringer told me that she had already been in for some serious surgery, but all they gave her was a band aid.

I spent the first six months ignoring the two useless pieces as they sat in my garage mocking me with the magnitude of this repair.  Unfortunately I had bragged to all my friends about how I was going to attempt this unwise venture…..and of course, write about it.

Normally I would have talked with people who fix boards professionally, but they would talk me out of wasting my time, so the first step was to look up information on the web.  Of course every website had to start off with the warning “Do not attempt this repair.  Contact a professional.”  Okay, ignore that and move forward.  I found a guy named Moura on Youtube.  This guy is really talented.  I watched a video of him reattaching a tail.  Good enough for me.

Step 1.  Clean the wound

Assuming that the board is dry at this point, really get in there and clean out all the sand, seaweed and junk.  I also used a Dremel to grind off the parts of the stringer that were rotted.  Peel off loose fiberglass and anything else that looks like it has been compromised.

Step 2. Sanding

The original fiberglass was one layer on the bottom; two on the top.  The board will  be built back up with two layers of six ounce fiberglass and one layer of four ounce fiberglass on both sides. This might be more than necessary, but I don’t want to take any chances.  Because I’m adding all this material. the board needs to be sanded down to make room without creating a bulge in the middle of the board.  This is tricky because the foam sands very fast while the stringer takes time.  Luckily I had a plan to cover this mess with bright red paint.  If I dig in the foam a little too much……I’ll just pour in some filler.

Step 3.  Glue them back together

Scary, right?  You bet.  I mixed Cabosil powder in with some resin to form a thick paste.  I like a consistency that can be poured, but doesn’t drip from the site of the repair.    Put in on thick and make sure it runs into all the nooks.  This is not the time to skimp on resin.  Spread it like peanut butter when you are super hungry.  The clock’s ticking while the filler starts to harden.  Weather and catalyst are deciding how much time you have to set the pieces.

In my usual foolish ways, I am working on some old rickety saw horses set up on an uneven driveway.  Sounds like a great recipe for a crooked longboard.  Never fear.  I placed  the reunited surfboard upside down on a nice flat uniform piece of plywood to create my operating table.  Then, while focusing mainly on the critical “performance affecting” bottom of the board, I ran a long straight piece of wood held in place with bungee cords to show any visual gaps along the line of the stringer.  Lastly, the eyeball test.  If I saw anything that looked uneven, small weights would be placed on the board for corrections.

Step 4.  Mind the gap

Do not go surfing!  I don’t care if a tropical swell found it’s way to your local break and the water is 70 degrees.  You will return to a ruined project.  Hang out and check the board every five minutes to see if anything has moved.  If so, make small corrections with the weights.  Keep doing this until the filler sets.

Step 5.  The substitute stringer

You didn’t think I was going to completely ignore the fact that this area of the board has a broken stringer, did you?  Someone made a comment online about strengthening the area around the stringer by cutting grooves and filling them with glass roving and resin.  Sounds good to me.  I cut my grooves a foot long right up against the stringer on both sides of the board, laid the glass roving and poured some resin in until it was level with the foam.

bring in the subs

Step 6.  Build Her up and sand Her down

Using fiberglass and resin (or more filler for large dips), I proceeded to build up the repaired area until it was even or slightly above the rest of the board.  I treated myself to an orbital sander at Home Depot for this project.  Lots of sanding my friends. Eventually (hopefully) you end up with an even surface across the board.  Mine came out surprisingly good.  Even better after a couple coats of candy apple Krylon gloss paint over the repair.

Step 7.  Go surfing

Don’t waste the materials and labor unless you plan on getting her in the water.  Either go surfing or give the board to someone who will be stoked.  I went out as soon as the paint was dry and had a great time.  I’ll be honest, I didn’t think I would pull off this repair.  It’s not near professional standards and maybe I got I little lucky, But I’m really happy to see this old Iron Cross back out catching waves.

So I’ll give you one  last thought.  Don’t attempt this repair.  Contact a professional.  Uh huh, you are going to do it anyway, aren’t you?.  Have fun and always wear a mask.

There are many things in this world that can give us copious amounts of pleasure, and the world itself is surely one of them.  Travel to a far away land in search of new and different waves is an exhilarating experience.  But like most things worth reaching for, it can be dangerous or displeasing if done incorrectly.

We as surfers often pride ourselves in the spontaneity of the moment.  We have lives and “schedules” that are dictated by the whims of the ocean.  Sometimes, that “reliable” surf forecast is misleading, and we get a call from a buddy saying that conditions are just perfect!  The wind is just right, swell direction is great, and the wave height is…”just get to the beach…Now!” After all, this is half the fun of it, not knowing what you’ll be doing or what type of wave you will be surfing when you wake up that day.  Call it what you will, but surfers tend to lean more on the impulsive side.  And that virtue (vice, perhaps?) will naturally leak into planning and executing a surf trip to a foreign country.

Costa Rican Surf Mobile

We’ve all been there before:  A surf friend comes up to us and proclaims that the waves in *insert country here* are going off around this time of year.  You, being the avid surfer and trusting friend, agree that it would be nice to be in that sunny paradise, soaking up the foreign rays and dropping in on a new wave.  Said friend says, “Well let’s go there!  Two weeks should be plenty of time to get our arrangements and hop on a plane.”  To most of us this sounds awesome, and it is; nothing like injecting the month and year with a spur-of-the-moment trip.

As much as the aforementioned story sounds fun, invigorating, and adventurous I urge you to be “that guy” with surf travel planning.  I’m not saying you need to you spend the next two years thinking about the country you’ve been dying to go to for waves, but it does behoove you (and your surf companions) to find the happy medium and the objective manner to figuring out the details and preparing for the trip of your life.   Obviously if you are a seasoned surf traveler to the particular country, or you are traveling with friends that have been there countless times and are on a first-name basis with the local bartender closest to the break, then there is a little more leniency with preparation and time management.  But if this is your first time to that new and foreign region, and if your travel companions are as green as you with this topic, then do everything in your power to adhere to the following advice.

Save Your Money

This is one of those “no kidding, dude, this goes without saying” pointers, but you’d be surprised at how many traveling surfers spend their next month’s electric bill on the fee to get their surfboard on an airplane (one of the frustrating, and scary, burdens of surf travel…but that’s another topic).  We all enjoy going to the local watering hole with our closest group of friends, but do something different for the next few months.  Save a few dollars here or there.  If you work a 9-to-5, pack your lunch instead of buying it each day.  It might only be a few dollars, but multiply that times the frequency in which your spendthrift habits occur.  Create a little imaginary bank account on paper, and when you would normally buy something, write it down and keep and ongoing tally.  You’ll be ecstatic when a few months pass and you have hundreds of dollars saved up, when you would have historically spent them on who-knows-what.  Now you’ll actually have something to show for your hard-earned money.  If you are lucky and your group of social friends also happens to be your surf buddies and future travel cohorts, then it’ll be easy to do the inexpensive Friday night (24-pack of beer and watching Endless Summer at your studio apartment…don’t laugh, we’ve all been there before).

Give Yourself Enough Time

We all have to be honest with ourselves, two weeks isn’t nearly enough time to plan an intricate trip to a land unknown.  There are many aspects to research, and with some destinations more than others.  You wouldn’t buy the first plane ticket you see, would you?  Well that train of thought should apply to every decision prior to surf travel.

What’s the best region to go to?  That question alone has many branches to it.  Where are the best waves–accessible to automobiles (unless you’re set on hiking miles upon miles to a break with your board, a pack full of a day’s supplies, and the rest of Mother Nature between you and the waves).  Where is it safe for travelers?  Depending on where you go in the world, there are many hostile regions that, even though they harvest great waves, it would be better to go in the future when political and/or social characteristics change and become more adhesive to travelers.

Part of planning also has to do with budgeting, as explained above.  Just because you’re going to a remote area doesn’t mean it’ll be inexpensive.  That is often times the case, where the American dollar goes far, but do some research on the topic.  Some amenities you may have to splurge on when you never would have.  Some places you really should steer clear of the drinking water because of the indigenous bacteria that is resident there.  You can ease it into your diet (definitely worth it if you are going to be there for weeks at a time), but you’ll have to buy bottled water without fear of getting sick.  That is another consideration, and it is highly advised to bring a little first-aid kit with you.

Pack Wisely

Board Bags Loaded For Travel

This is one of those things that can’t be stressed nearly enough.  Unless you are going on this trip to hit up the bars in a fifty mile radius, you don’t need that nice pair of wingtips, three pair of dress pants, and a wardrobe of clothes that you “might” wear.  Forget about it!  You’re going there to surf, and all you really need is a handful of boardshorts, a pair of jeans, a few sweatshirts (just because the days are blazing hot, doesn’t mean the nights will be sweat-filled), a couple handfuls of wax (make sure you get the right wax for the water temperature you are traveling to), and the necessary toiletries.  Of course there are a few other have-to-haves, but you get the idea.

Bring what you need and nothing more.  There aren’t any fashion shows where you are going.  But possibly the most important aspect of packing is not just the “what”, but the “how”.  We travel with surfboards, and even when we have the five inch padded bags, it still isn’t enough.  Just picture the worst that somebody can do with your boardbag, and keep that in the back of your mind as you pack.  Don’t bring typical luggage, because you have the world’s greatest luggage already…your boardbag!  Pack every piece of clothing around that beautiful surfboard to ensure the safety of your stick.  Your boardbag and a backpack would be plenty of luggage real estate to get all you need to your destination.

Learn the Language

The language barrier that you may run into if you travel to a foreign country could potentially degrade your experience to the point of danger.  I’m not saying that you have to be fluent in the language of the land, but you should have a decent grasp on phrases that you will say or hear to get around the general public.  This will not only allow you to survive the trip, but it will also give you the opportunity to meet new and amazing people, and share verbal communication with them.  This is all tied back to giving yourself enough time to plan before the airplane starts the engines.  If you haven’t had any exposure to the language, then I highly recommend going the extra mile to learn it.  There are plenty of self-study resources out there in the form of books, software, and even online classes.  These are all feasible options, and they will pay themselves back with the first conversation you have with a smiling local.

Learn The Local Language

Traveling abroad is a something that, when done right, will be an exciting and amazing experience that you will never forget.  The waves, the locals, and the times will have you planning your next trip almost immediately.  But surf travel is not something that just falls into place and works itself out; it must be scientifically planned.  With the right approach, though, you will have yourself a time full of stoke.

Photos by Ashley Beth

Are you a big dude that wants to get into surfing?  Looks like fun, right?  Well do yourself a favor and get plenty of foam between you and the surface of the ocean.  There is no shame in adding a little flotation here and there to make our surfing experience a little more enjoyable.  I’m 6’5”, 215lbs, so I get it.  Leave the potato chip boards for the Lilliputians (I should probably leave the actual potato chips alone as well).   What you need is a board that will make your surf session fun.  In other words, catching and riding plenty of waves. Make sure you start with dimensions to match you size and skill level.

Most surfers will tell you to start out with a longboard.  That’s pretty good advice.  You certainly get more foam, and they are usually easier to paddle, but what if you want to surf on a shortboard?  I started out with a 9’6” longboard and had a great time. However, I soon wanted to get on something that would react a little quicker on the waves.  Sort of like going from a big SUV to a sporty little car.   I tried dropping down from the longboard all the way to 6’10” shortboard.  At first it was way too squirrely for me.  Honestly, I didn’t know how to ride a shortboard.  Everything is different.  Paddling, distributing your weight, popping up and riding.  You have to understand how the board wants to be surfed and how the wave wants you to surf on that particular board.  That’s harmony.  I decided to take baby steps by dropping down to an 8’6” longboard, then down to a 7’6” egg shape and then finally back on the 6’10”.  Now I felt comfortable.

Of course, not only is the size of the board going to affect your surfing but also the shape.  Consider the shape of the nose, tail and rails as well as the rocker.  Rocker is the amount of curve on the bottom of the board from nose to tail and can be divided into nose rocker, mid rocker and tail rocker.  Bottom line is that a flatter board will probably paddle easier, but may not fit the shape of the wave.  In other words you might find yourself paddling like a champ and then burying your nose as soon as you catch the wave.  Some trade off is beneficial.

Fins are also a huge part of the equation.  Surfers are having fun on single fins and five fin bonzers as well as anything in between.  Three fin “thrusters” dominate the surfing landscape, but four fin “quads” are also very popular.  A great way to experiment is by riding a five fin convertible (five fin slots).  That way you can ride it as a thruster, twin fin, quad or even a single fin.  Fin size and material is another area of personal taste, but the common thinking is that a larger stiffer fin is going to suit a larger surfer.  Again, experiment with various shapes, sizes, materials and flex patterns to match your size and skill level along with the type of waves you will be facing.

Other things to consider are weight and materials used in manufacturing the board.  Polyurethane is still very popular but lately we’ve seen a lot of lighter floatier epoxy boards.  Ultimately it will probably come down to your own personal preferences once you get a little experience on different types of boards.  A lot of bigger guys are trying epoxy boards for the strength and flotation.  Look for more choices than ever before as manufacturers experiment with new (and sometimes greener) materials.

The great news for us big guys (and girls), is that many of the well known surfboard companies have decided to help us get our surf on.  Channel Islands Big Willy and Infinity’s Big Tex are just a couple examples of famous shapers expanding sizes to help the big folks rip. Kelly Slater is 5’9” and 160 lbs. Stay away from his board dimensions for now.  Look at famous surfer/shaper Ben Aipa’s Big Boy Stinger.  Ben’s a big guy himself so he understands the potential frustration.  Most popular shapes can big configured into larger dimensions, so let the professionals advise you before your next purchase.

My favorite board right now is my 7’4” x 22” x 3” Lost Shark.  It’s a poly urethane board with a 5 fin convertible set up.   I mainly ride it as a thruster.  This board paddles well, turns like a champ and has plenty of foam under my feet.  I don’t believe in one board quivers, but if I did, this would be it.  I decided to ask the man himself, Lost Surfboards Founder Matt “Mayhem” Biolos, why I love this board so much.

“Well, first off you’re able to paddle and compete for waves in the crowded lineups of Southern California.  Then, after catching a wave, it has the stability and maneuverability,” explained Matt, “at 6’5” 215 you’re probably in good shape.  That’s not heavy at all for the height.  I think those dimensions for your skill level are very conservative, and that extra length is giving you a lot of confidence in the line up by letting you catch and ride waves consistently.  The design of that board is allowing you to improve your performance rather than just cruising on a mini tank.”

I discovered that Matt is 6’1” 205 lbs, so I asked him what boards he likes to ride,

“I think the Rock-Up is an amazing board for solid waves.  It’s so user friendly in 4-8 foot surf.  I personally love my Plank for knee to waist high mush.  My Plank is 5’10” to 6’0” x 22” x 2.75”.  For all around waves I really like the Blunt.”

Finally Matt gave me some good advice for all surfers,

“Be realistic about your skills and your size.  Some skinny kid will tell you that your board’s a boat, but if you do the math using rider’s lbs vs. volume of the board you will discover that it’s often the same or maybe the bigger rider has a lower weight to volume ratio.  Lost Surfboards is now putting the cubic liters (volume) on every board we make.”

Matt knows his stuff (and I think he suggested I take the training wheels off and experiment with some shorter boards).  Bottom line; get the volume right.  Potato chips?  I’ll probably keep eating them, but I won’t be riding them.

Check out Lost Surfboards website with the new cubic liter measurements at www.lostenterprises.com

My two best friends; a 7'4" hunk of foam and a 13" Beagle

Surfing in a crowded lineup is always a challenge.  Unfortunately if you want to surf the most popular and storied waves such as Rincon, Lowers, and Blacks you’ll always have to deal with crowds.  However, there are a few things you can do in order to help get your fair share of the wave helpings.

1.) Time It Right

Time of day is crucial.  This is going to make the 9-5er’s mad, but if you can manage it, going late morning and early afternoon during the work week will give you the opportunity to surf with the fewest people.  Even a lunchtime session can be better than the pre and post work crowd.  Holidays and big events are other primo times to go.  Thanksgiving, Mother’s Day, Christmas, New Year’s, big games.

2.) Wait For The Second Or Third Wave

I’m always amazed at how many people attempt to paddle for the first wave of a set.  It seems like the whole lineup feels the need to paddle for it, leaving me almost alone out the back for the second or third wave.  And a lot of times the second or third wave is the biggest of the set anyway.  Patience and knowing what the swell is dealing out will always bring rewards.

3.) Know The Spot

There’s a lot to be said for knowing a spot.  You’ll be clued in to the moods of the break, and will know where a rogue peak might pop up every so often.  At my usual spot I know there’s a great left that breaks just south of the main peak, but only about a third of the sets hit there.  Even though there are fewer waves I get more total because nobody tends to hang out on that peak.  Unfortunately surfers are lemmings, and if they see you catching a lot of waves they’ll come join you.  If you don’t have the luxury of being a local, taking some time to watch the break before paddling out will help out immensely.  Sometimes it’s harder to evaluate the break from the lineup.  To be honest, however, I’m usually too amped to get in the water to watch for very long.

4.) Hang To The Side

In ultra-crowded lineups such as Trestles, sometimes jockeying for waves right in the middle of the pack is hard.  If you hang off to either side you’ll be able to pick off the waves that swing wide.  Just make sure you watch out for people taking off deep.  I employed this strategy at Lower Trestles, where 6 people can paddle-battle shoulder to shoulder for one peak.  I don’t usually feel like doing that kind of thing, so waiting for the swingers gave me the ability to grab some gems.

5.) Know The Kooks

Observation is key.  There are always some people out who are paddling for everything yet never catch anything.  Take mental notes on who is being a buoy, and be prepared to go.

6.) If All Else Fails…

Go down the beach.  Sometimes a sub-par wave with fewer people is much more rewarding and fun.

Got any tips for catching more waves?  Post a comment below

donkey n. a kook, someone who blatantly disregards surfing etiquette

Ok, I hate to be a negative nellie and all that, but this post has been inspired by the throngs of beginners flocking to the waves at one of my usual spots back home here in New York.  (oh, and uh, there’s no surf in New York, but that’s a subject for another post at another time)  I have no problem with beginners – everyone has to learn sometime.  I remember being a beginner flailing around in the whitewash just a few short years ago.  However, there were a few key things that I tried quite hard not to do when I was just starting out.  It’s about respect, safety, and keeping order in a changing and often dangerous environment.

With the influx of beginners these past few years has also come a sense of entitlement and general rudeness out there in the water.  Case in point; at a local benefit/memorial surf contest a few weeks ago a stand up paddler decided to paddle right into the contest zone.  Upon being told multiple times to please vacate the contest area and move down the beach, he promptly replied with a nasty, “Grow up.”  Really?  Really? I know this is New York, but gimme a break.

Think of this post as more of a public service announcement to ease tensions in crowded lineups, or “how to be a beginner that everyone respects.”  This is also in addition to the basic rules of etiquette that I’ve posted here.  Read it.  Learn it.

So let’s get down to business, shall we?

1.) Don’t Paddle Out To The Main Peak

The main peak in most lineups is where the primo waves are breaking.  Sure, nobody owns the ocean, but it’s the unwritten rule that beginners should not paddle out to the main peak.  Think of it this way: would you waltz onto a street basketball court in the middle of a game and start trying to practice freethrows?  Beginners often don’t have control over their equipment, and this can lead to dangerous situations with boards flying everywhere and fiberglass crunching and blood and carnage, etc.  If you’re just starting out you don’t need the best breaking wave as you probably can’t take full advantage of them anyway.  Paddle out and surf down the beach out of the way; you’ll get more waves and you will have all the room you want to lose your board or get caught inside.

2.) Don’t Sit Like A Buoy On The Inside

I’ve had several waves ruined by folks who were sitting directly in my line, staring at me and not moving.  Key word: sitting.  OK, Sometimes poop happens and you happen to get in someones way while paddling back out.  Sometimes I get caught in the Bermuda triangle and I can’t get behind them and can’t get over the wave in front of them.  But I try very hard not to let that happen.  That’s not what I’m talking about here.  What I’m talking about is folks who just sit there.  If someone is either paddling right at you to get a wave or is surfing down the line at you, you really should be doing your best to get out of their way.

3a.) Don’t Throw Your Board

This one is self explanatory.  Just don’t do it!  Learn to turtle roll or duckdive.  At least try to have some semblance of holding on before you let go.  Too many folks out there think they can just chuck their board and swim under the wave.  I was almost nailed by someone who did this a few weeks ago.  That’s not what your leash is for!

3b.) Don’t Kick Your Board Out

There’s something to be said for wiping out or getting knocked by the wave.  Sometimes you can’t help it.  But don’t intentionally just kick your board out and jump off when you’re done with the wave.  I see lots of folks ride a wave, and then just hop off and let their board rocket towards the beach at 90 miles an hour as they take a relaxing dip in the whitewater.  This is quite dangerous for those paddling back out.  Remember, if you’re on a longboard and your leash is 8 or 9 feet long, that’s a potential 18 foot radius of destruction.  I know several people, including myself, that have had very close calls or have been hit in the head by someone who kicked their board out.  Try to hold onto your board.  Reach out and catch the rail when the wave is over.  Stomp hard on the tail and the whitewater will pass over you.  Surf like you don’t have a leash.  This is just good surfing practice, not to mention it looks way better and more professional. You might think it’s hard at first, but you don’t know what you can do until you try.

4.) Don’t Be A Lemming

If you see someone out enjoying some waves all by their lonesome and you want in on the action, it’s pretty rude to paddle right up to them and plant yourself 5 feet away.  I’ve gotta say, for most surfers this is akin to just blatantly cutting in front at the supermarket line.  This happened to a friend and I the other day.  We were trading waves on an empty sandbar, and out paddles a dude who sits right on top of us and proceeds to drop in on us.  This is a major faux pas, dear readers.  It’s probably one of the rudest things you can do in surfing.  There are most likely some other peaks around, so try for that.  If it’s the only peak in the area then paddle out, sit off to the side a bit, and wait your turn.

5.) Spread Out In The Lineup

Ok, some lineups are just a big chaotic mosh pit.  However, most of the time at beachbreaks you can spread yourselves out.  If someone’s sitting and waiting for a wave, don’t paddle and sit directly in front of or behind them.  Sit off to the side a bit.

6.) Know How To Swim

This is self explanatory.  But everyone should know how to swim in the ocean.  It makes me a little nervous when friends tell me they can’t really swim too well, but it’s OK because they have a leash or they’re “attached to a lifesaving device.”  No!!  This is not the case.  I say this all the time but leashes can break, so you really can’t rely on it.  Ensure you can swim back if you need to.

7.) Don’t Wear Booties And Springsuits

And put your fins in the right way.

***

So now that you know how not to be a donkey, go out there and have fun.  Surfing is great, and I don’t want to discourage anyone from giving it a go.  It’s going to take you some time to get good, but the rewards are absolutely worth it!  You’ll make lifelong friends and lead a happier, healthier life.  Now get out there!

Getting better at surfing is something that will happen just by surfing, for a time. But surfers like Kelly Slater and Josh Kerr don’t just go for a surf session every day and stumble onto the pro surfing scene, like the Billabong Pro Jeffreys Bay tournament.

Pro surfers watch what they eat and they work out outside of the water in ways they know will improve their performance in the water. Their workouts are designed to improve agility, speed, balance, flexibility, and explosive power (used for maneuvers like launching off the lip).

In fact, 75% of all pro surfers reportedly work out, outside of the water. And the 25% who don’t work out have become pro’s in spite of their lack of a work out. Bottom line: Going pro isn’t an accident, and if you’re willing to go the extra mile, you could make it.

If you’ve been surfing for a while, you no doubt have balance down really well.  However, this is one area you can always improve on and become a stronger surfer.

Perhaps when you surf you fall down on waves you know you could have ridden longer.   You lay in bed at night, still feeling the rocking of the waves, and you think about waves you caught–and lost. Maybe if you had crouched lower, or looked ahead, you could have stayed on longer. Maybe if you worked on your balance as part of a workout routine you would have had the balance skills to hang on through a rough spot.

Teach your body and mind to be more prepared out of the water than it will need to be while in the water, and your surfing will improve.

Here are five ways to improve your balance and surf stronger:

Learn to look ahead in the water, not down at your feet.

1. Balancing with Eyes Shut – For this exercise, you stand on the balls of your feet (the front of your feet, by your toes). Your heels hang off the edge of whatever you stand on. For example, you could stand on a step on a staircase, or on the edge of a sturdy box, with your heels hanging in the air. Close your eyes, and let the fun begin.

Hold your hands in the air in front of your chest. Keep your ankles relaxed and be ready to make quick and small adjustments. With your eyes closed, your body will want to lean forward, and if you over-correct, you may find yourself falling backward. Make small adjustments to your stance to continue standing in the initial position.

This exercise is fun and will improve your balance dramatically. If you’ve been finding yourself staring down at your surfboard and feet while surfing, this exercise will help you learn to balance while looking ahead at the water.

Get Ready to Hang 10

2. Walk a Tight Rope – Setting up a tight rope to walk on isn’t as complicated as it sounds. You need a rope, and you tie it very tightly at two points, about 6-12 inches off the ground.

Carefully step onto the rope and focus on putting one foot in front of the other. It isn’t important to make it all the way across the first try, and it isn’t important to walk quickly.

If you want to hang 10, you have to get proficient at putting one foot in front of the other. At least you aren’t also being moved along on your surfboard by a wave that tilts left and right. Considering the difficulty of hanging 10, walking the tight rope is child’s play.

Prepare to Get Shoved

3. Balance on One Foot, Bend at the Waist – Keep your spine straight, and bend at the knee while balancing on only one foot. Let your arms hang down in front of you, and keep your knees bent. It’s easy to get into one position like this, so now move your upper body to the left, the right, and try different angles. When it’s too easy for you, pick a position, and close your eyes. Use your arms to make quick and small adjustments to maintain your balance.

This exercise is fun and prepares you for unexpected wave movements. All those times you flew forward on your surfboard are the times you’re preparing for with this exercise.

Improve Balance and Improve Your Ab Strength

4. Stand on One Foot and Play Catch – This is a fun exercise you can do at the beach with a fellow surfer. While standing on one foot, toss an object back and forth. If you have a medicine ball, use it. If not, use anything, even a football or basketball.

Make it a game, with both of you standing on one foot, tossing the object back and forth, and see who loses their balance first. For improved ab strength, a 5 pound medicine ball is best. If you fall down, you gain a point; first person to get 10, loses.

On Land Surfing

5. Skate – Skating is the next best thing to surfing, and it’s what we do when the surf is flat. Skateboarding requires balancing of your whole body while you move along at a fast pace and make unexpected moves and turns. Improve your skating and you improve your surfing.

Do you actively focus on becoming a better surfer by improving your balance? What methods do you use?

Our friends at Texas Surfers hooked us up with this article. Check them out!