Remember the courage of the boy in the bestselling novel, “The Power of One?” Well multiply that by three, bring them together, and give them a few boards. The Powers of Three explores the friendship of three surfers ruling the sketchiest shores in Ireland. Mickey Smith, Fergal Smith, and Tom Lowe put a gold star on Ireland’s reputation for big wave riding. We saw a rough sneak peak of Fergal’s action in High-5, but it was nothing compared to what this 30 minute film has in store for us.

The Powers of Three really shows the spirituality and commitment these men live by. You can tell they all are passionate about what they do, even though they are not pulling in the big bucks. Fergal especially; he has been charging the giants since the young age of 16 and makes it look like a walk in the park.

One of my favorite parts is how the director uses cinematography to put into perspective how small we are compared to the ocean. The coast of Ireland is portrayed magnificently throughout the entirety of the film. The director is able to blend the beauty of the coastline and the aggressiveness of the waves to create an equilibrium that I haven’t seen in any other movie minus Castles in the Sky.

Sure this film documents the rad waves they caught, but it also scratches the surface about the cost these waves can deal to you if you wipe out.

I really liked the soundtrack to this movie. Although there are no songs that have lyrics, the surfing speaks for itself. What surprised me was that they were able to throw in some Mozart which fit the scene perfectly!

In the end, I’d have to say almost everything about this movie is heavy: the dialog, waves, and especially the cojones these guys have to surf. If you have 30 minutes free during your lunch break or right before bed, go check out The Powers of Three – you will not regret it. After all, it is free! Here’s the link to the film: http://www.relentlessenergy.com/films/view/powers-of-three

Related posts:

1. Transword Surf’s High 5 – Video Review
2. Review Of The Mystic
3. Thicker Than Water

Surf Dog Ricochet, the SURFice dog & her surfing mobile!

When I was a kid, just a little gremmie, I had two heroes: Greg Noll and Miki Dora.

Dora was a rebel; his poetic style unmatched. Man, could that guy surf.

Noll was “da Bull.” He had, well, so as not to be prude, let’s just say, “nerve,” but I think you know what I mean. There wasn’t a wave that guy wouldn’t ride. And this was long before tow-in surfing. This maniac paddled-out into 30-foot surf like it was nothing.

Now, here in the 21st century, I’m short on heroes. Dora’s deceased, and Noll doesn’t surf anymore.

So I went in search of a new hero…and I’m happy to say, I found one. But unlike my previous heroes, this particular surfer is a girl (not that there’s anything wrong with that). And that’s not all…this surfer is also a canine!

Ricochet surfing in a recent competition. Photo: Diane Edmonds

C’mon, let’s face it, there’s just something very cool about dogs that surf.

There’s something even cooler about a dog that surfs in competition.

But a dog that surfs in competition and raises awareness for charitable causes, well, that’s just downright BITCH’n!

Meet my new hero: Ricochet, a 2-year-old Golden Retriever, who has gone from service dog, to SURFice dog.

“I was born, and raised as part of the Puppy Prodigies Neo-Natal & Early Learning Program with hopes of becoming a service dog for a person with a disability,” Ricochet recently told me. “But, they tell me I’m a little too interested in chasing birds, and other small animals. So, my career path changed, and instead of becoming a service dog, I became a SURFice dog!”

This sudden change in career paths did not deter Ricochet. Instead, she made the most of her newfound abilities.

“As part of the Puppy Prodigies program, I was exposed to many new and exciting things in my whelping box, and then the puppy play yard,” says Ricochet. “I had lots of obstacles to maneuver over, under, around, on top of, etc including swings, wobble boards, skateboards, and many other uneven surfaces. As a result, I developed an amazing sense of balance and coordination.”

Balance and coordination, exactly what it takes to excel at surfing.

“At 8 weeks of age, in addition to my service dog task training,” she barks, “I began surf dog training on a boogie board in a kiddie pool just for fun. Most of my training from that point on was conducted at home, on dry land. In the summer of 2008, I had a few practice sessions in the calm water of Fiesta Island.”

And, as all surfers know: one wave and your hooked.  Ricochet was no exception.

“In the spring of 2009, I began going out to Fiesta Island again, taking small paw steps before taking the giant leap to the rough waters of the ocean,” recalls Ricochet. “I had been in the ocean about three times when I got a last minute call to compete in the Purina Incredible Dog Challenge Surf Competition on June 12, 2009. I was still quite a novice grom at 15 months old, but managed to win 3rd place in the large dog category, and was only one point off from the 2nd place winner.”

Ricochet no has more than 11,000 facebook fans. She has surfed numerous contests in 2010, repeating her 3rd place finish at this month’s Purina Incredible Dog Challenge and continues to not only raise the level of her self-confidence, but awareness and mucho dollars for her growing list of charities.

“I’ve raised thousands and thousands of dollars for charitable causes, almost $35,000 in just 10 months!” she boasts. “And I’ve inspired millions of people with my SURFice dog video, which went viral and has over 2.6 million views!”

I’m proud to admit, that I am one of those 2.6 million, and I suggest you become one (below), as well.

Gotta admit, I shed a few tears when I watched this precious pooch and her incredible journey from service dog to SURFice dog. So I called her owner, Judy Fridono, and Judy told me about a recent episode involving Ricochet and a six-year-old Californian surfer named Ian McFarland.

Ricochet got Ian back in the water. Photo: Tamara Michaels

Ian, like Ricochet, is a surfer. He learned to surf with his father, enjoying that special son/dad relationship among the waves that only a son/dad combo can relate to.

On July 3, 2008, Ian, then five, his sister, Lauren, 2, his brother Luke, 1, and parents Tod and Stephanie McFarland, left from their home in Carlsbad, California to attend a wedding in Boulder, Colorado.

But they never made it.

The family suffered a devastating car accident that took the lives of Mr. and Mrs. McFarland. While the injuries to Lauren and Luke were slight, Ian suffered severe brain damage and was left in a coma.

Following four months in the hospital, Ian was finally discharged, but the trauma to the brain left him barely able to speak, attached to a feeding tube and bound to a wheelchair. And the rehabilitation costs are astronomical.

So enter Ricochet, who helped to raise money for the ailing Ian, mostly through that inspirational video on YouTube, yet another fine gesture by this amazing pooch that continues to raise awareness for her long list of charities.

But Ricochet and Ian were not finished. The two would meet again, with results that are–to say the least–PAW-inspiring and centered around their mutual love for the ocean and the great sport of surfing.

“The Ocean is very therapeutic for Ian,” says Ian’s Aunt Melissa. “It was in the water where Ian took his first steps after the accident, and it would be wonderful if Ricochet could help motivate him to do even more, and get back on a board. Ian loves dogs.”

It didn’t take any coaxing for Ricochet to rise for the occasion, and a surf session was arranged for May 25, 2010.

“It used to take an hour or two to coax Ian into the water,” says Melissa. “He has some fears post accident. But, on this day, because he was told that Ricochet was going to surf with him, he woke up and said ‘I WANT TO SURF TODAY’”.

And so they did. Ian returned to the place where he used to surf with his loving father…with a new friend.

And when all was said and done, Ricochet presented Ian with, not only a few kisses, but a check for $7,000 to help with rehabilitation costs.

Two friends surfing together.

And as we all know, there’s nothing quite like surfing with friends.

Ricochet, you are, indeed, my hero.

For more information on Ricochet: Visit her website, and follower her on facebook.

For more information on Ian: visit his website.
Special thanks to Diane Edmonds, and Tamandra Michaels for use of the photo’s as well as Judy Fridono for the touching videos.

Related posts:

1. Surfing 101: Know Your Surfeneese
2. Overhead and Nowhere Near the Ocean: Great Lakes Surfing

After finding out the local surf shop had Transworld Surf’s latest flick, High-5, I was excited to check it out, especially because of all the hype in the magazine over the past few months.  When it was over I was a little surprised because I felt like something was missing; Unlike Taylor Steele’s Castles in the Sky, High-5 has almost no dialog and rarely shows clips of land.  Instead of focusing on the voyage itself, the flick jumps right into the action.  On the bright side, there is more room for all the massive cutbacks and insane airs (even the ones they can’t land).  Filmed within a 5 month window, Andrew Doheny, Eric Geiselman, Wade Goodall, Fergal Smith, and Andy Irons definitely had their fair share of amazing clips.

One of the cooler parts of the video was a small segment on Fergal Smith killing it in Ireland.  In addition to the fierce slabs he dropped in on, Fergal Smith took it to the next level by carrying a camera while being shacked to give a perspective we don’t usually see in these films.

Of course, throughout the 40 minute film, Andy Irons doesn’t fail to amaze and Eric Geiselman lands countless gnarly airs.

To vamp up the flick, Transworld included various special effects which may or may not include an animated shark, a 400lb woman, and an occasional gnome; make sure to look out for them, some are easy to miss!

Among others, the soundtrack had bands on the down-low including “The Soft Pack,” “The drowning men,”  and “Future Islands,” which blend in well with the flick, especially one of the opening songs, “Answer to Yourself.”

On the back cover of the DVD there is a byte in a large font that reads, “Can someone tell me what this is for?” This film is highly recommended for anyone looking for a film that focuses on the surfing rather than the lifestyle.  You can buy the DVD online at Swell.com or your local surf shop may carry it. As a bonus, it comes with a free one year subscription to their magazine, so go check it out!

Related posts:

1. Powers Of Three – Video Review
2. Postcards From Paradise
3. Review Of The Mystic

donkey n. a kook, someone who blatantly disregards surfing etiquette

Ok, I hate to be a negative nellie and all that, but this post has been inspired by the throngs of beginners flocking to the waves at one of my usual spots back home here in New York.  (oh, and uh, there’s no surf in New York, but that’s a subject for another post at another time)  I have no problem with beginners – everyone has to learn sometime.  I remember being a beginner flailing around in the whitewash just a few short years ago.  However, there were a few key things that I tried quite hard not to do when I was just starting out.  It’s about respect, safety, and keeping order in a changing and often dangerous environment.

With the influx of beginners these past few years has also come a sense of entitlement and general rudeness out there in the water.  Case in point; at a local benefit/memorial surf contest a few weeks ago a stand up paddler decided to paddle right into the contest zone.  Upon being told multiple times to please vacate the contest area and move down the beach, he promptly replied with a nasty, “Grow up.”  Really?  Really? I know this is New York, but gimme a break.

Think of this post as more of a public service announcement to ease tensions in crowded lineups, or “how to be a beginner that everyone respects.”  This is also in addition to the basic rules of etiquette that I’ve posted here.  Read it.  Learn it.

So let’s get down to business, shall we?

1.) Don’t Paddle Out To The Main Peak

The main peak in most lineups is where the primo waves are breaking.  Sure, nobody owns the ocean, but it’s the unwritten rule that beginners should not paddle out to the main peak.  Think of it this way: would you waltz onto a street basketball court in the middle of a game and start trying to practice freethrows?  Beginners often don’t have control over their equipment, and this can lead to dangerous situations with boards flying everywhere and fiberglass crunching and blood and carnage, etc.  If you’re just starting out you don’t need the best breaking wave as you probably can’t take full advantage of them anyway.  Paddle out and surf down the beach out of the way; you’ll get more waves and you will have all the room you want to lose your board or get caught inside.

2.) Don’t Sit Like A Buoy On The Inside

I’ve had several waves ruined by folks who were sitting directly in my line, staring at me and not moving.  Key word: sitting.  OK, Sometimes poop happens and you happen to get in someones way while paddling back out.  Sometimes I get caught in the Bermuda triangle and I can’t get behind them and can’t get over the wave in front of them.  But I try very hard not to let that happen.  That’s not what I’m talking about here.  What I’m talking about is folks who just sit there.  If someone is either paddling right at you to get a wave or is surfing down the line at you, you really should be doing your best to get out of their way.

3a.) Don’t Throw Your Board

This one is self explanatory.  Just don’t do it!  Learn to turtle roll or duckdive.  At least try to have some semblance of holding on before you let go.  Too many folks out there think they can just chuck their board and swim under the wave.  I was almost nailed by someone who did this a few weeks ago.  That’s not what your leash is for!

3b.) Don’t Kick Your Board Out

There’s something to be said for wiping out or getting knocked by the wave.  Sometimes you can’t help it.  But don’t intentionally just kick your board out and jump off when you’re done with the wave.  I see lots of folks ride a wave, and then just hop off and let their board rocket towards the beach at 90 miles an hour as they take a relaxing dip in the whitewater.  This is quite dangerous for those paddling back out.  Remember, if you’re on a longboard and your leash is 8 or 9 feet long, that’s a potential 18 foot radius of destruction.  I know several people, including myself, that have had very close calls or have been hit in the head by someone who kicked their board out.  Try to hold onto your board.  Reach out and catch the rail when the wave is over.  Stomp hard on the tail and the whitewater will pass over you.  Surf like you don’t have a leash.  This is just good surfing practice, not to mention it looks way better and more professional. You might think it’s hard at first, but you don’t know what you can do until you try.

4.) Don’t Be A Lemming

If you see someone out enjoying some waves all by their lonesome and you want in on the action, it’s pretty rude to paddle right up to them and plant yourself 5 feet away.  I’ve gotta say, for most surfers this is akin to just blatantly cutting in front at the supermarket line.  This happened to a friend and I the other day.  We were trading waves on an empty sandbar, and out paddles a dude who sits right on top of us and proceeds to drop in on us.  This is a major faux pas, dear readers.  It’s probably one of the rudest things you can do in surfing.  There are most likely some other peaks around, so try for that.  If it’s the only peak in the area then paddle out, sit off to the side a bit, and wait your turn.

5.) Spread Out In The Lineup

Ok, some lineups are just a big chaotic mosh pit.  However, most of the time at beachbreaks you can spread yourselves out.  If someone’s sitting and waiting for a wave, don’t paddle and sit directly in front of or behind them.  Sit off to the side a bit.

6.) Know How To Swim

This is self explanatory.  But everyone should know how to swim in the ocean.  It makes me a little nervous when friends tell me they can’t really swim too well, but it’s OK because they have a leash or they’re “attached to a lifesaving device.”  No!!  This is not the case.  I say this all the time but leashes can break, so you really can’t rely on it.  Ensure you can swim back if you need to.

7.) Don’t Wear Booties And Springsuits

And put your fins in the right way.

***

So now that you know how not to be a donkey, go out there and have fun.  Surfing is great, and I don’t want to discourage anyone from giving it a go.  It’s going to take you some time to get good, but the rewards are absolutely worth it!  You’ll make lifelong friends and lead a happier, healthier life.  Now get out there!

Related posts:

1. Surf Tip: Preventing Leash Tangles
2. Surf Tip: Improve Your Balance and Surf Stronger
3. Surf Tip – Looking Down The Line

Bruce Clelland, myself, and Robert August at the 2010 WaveMasters

Ever seen the movie Sliding Doors?

At the beginning of the movie, Gwyneth Paltrow walks through a sliding door, and then the movie becomes two separate stories: One, telling what happens after going through the door; and the other, the consequences had she not.

Kinda makes you think. We all make similar decisions every day, and what happens as a result defines our lives.

For me, one sliding door was an invite to local surf guru Mitch Kaufmann’s WaveMasters Surf Contest earlier this summer. Ironically, for Robert August, it was another movie, Endless Summer, that would prove to be his sliding door.

The WaveMasters is an annual fun gathering of North Florida’s finest surfers with special heats for the legendary local surfers that put Jacksonville surfing on the map. Although I had a ton of chores to do that weekend, the thought of nabbing a few interviews with some of the area’s biggest surf legends was just an opportunity I couldn’t pass up.

Hence, my sliding door.

I grabbed my handy iPhone, checked the recorder to see if it was working, and headed to the Jacksonville Beach Pier. Upon arrival, the first person I noticed was legendary “Grandfather of Jacksonville Surfing” and East Coast Surfing Hall of Famer, Bruce Clelland.

Jackpot.

“Hey Bruce,” I said. “Just want to do a quick interview. Need you for about five minutes.”

“No problem, Marion,” he told me. “But you may want to talk to my friend here, as well.”

That’s when I noticed that Bruce’s friend was none other than Endless Summer’s Robert August.

Bruce introduced us, we shook hands, and I told Robert, “Just want to do a quick interview. Need you for about five days.”

The laidback August laughed at my joke, but didn’t realize that, for the next two days, I would be all over him like Slipcheck on a Velzy. We talked. We laughed. We reminisced. Robert told me enough stories, cool stories, too, to fill a book.

For two straight days, I was all over Robert like Slipcheck on a Velzy

That first session on the beach lasted for more than four hours. It got to the point that all I had to do was pull out my iPhone, which by now he knew was a recorder, he would nod, and then go on with each story, or chapter, as I like to think of them.

We talked about surfing, shaping, dropped a few big names and even discussed his favorite charity. Into hour five, I turned him loose and went home to shower before his “Meet and Greet” appearance that evening at Cabo’s Island Pizza.

As it turned out, this would be yet another sliding door, for I had no intentions of attending, but the proprietor, Mike Ferrara, and old surf bud, insisted. So I went.

I settled up to the bar with my favorite girl and a couple of Heinekens and proceeded to watch Endless Summer on the big screen, while August graciously mingled and signed autographs. Although I honestly wanted one, I had done everything just short of accosting this man on the beach all day, so I decided to give him a break.

So, while watching Endless Summer, on comes the classic segment in the movie, the discovery of Cape St. Francis and its “perfect wave” when I hear Robert’s voice behind me.

“We actually did just stumble upon it,” August said. “Not like in the movie. We were actually surfing away from the point, but we could see the whitewater down the coast. We surfed this beach break for a couple of hours, and then Hynson said, ‘I’m gonna paddle down and check it out.”

I whipped out the iPhone.

“You know Hynson,” August continued, “Mr. Dreamworld…I’m like, ‘Whatever…’ So we gathered up the stuff, and walked all the way out there. We came around the corner and were like, ‘Man-oh-man!’ It wasn’t hitting the rocks. It was perfect!”

Robert proceeded to tell us about the perfect 5-hour session they had until the tide came in too high, hitting the rocks, and surfing was through for the day, but not the filming.

“We surfed until I vomited,” he recounted, “and then Bruce (Brown) had us film the scene where we slid down the sand dune. We were like, ‘Aw, c’mon Bruce!’ But he insisted, and we got it done. Now we were totally exhausted, and he said, ‘That was great. Let’s do it again.’”

They went back to the beach the next morning, but the wind had switched onshore, and the waves were gone. He has never been back. But there will always be that perfect day at Cape St. Francis and the worldwide quest for the perfect wave.

And for August, the movie Endless Summer, itself, would be his sliding door.

“I went to school as soon as we got back from filming,” August told me. “I was going to be a dentist.”

But after one year of school, August had second thoughts.

“I was like, man, I don’t want to do this! I’m a surfer!

So Robert went to visit his dentist, who just so happened to be a surfer, as well.

“He told me: ‘It’s just like fixing a ding. You dig out the hole. You fill it up, and you sand it and polish it. And you hurt ‘em. And they’re mad at you.’ So I asked him if he was happy, and he told me: “I’m charging you for this appointment, aren’t I?’”

The dentist/friend continued to tell him how he was, indeed, happy, and that he and his wife were about to purchase their first home. Troubling for Robert, however, was the fact that the dentist had been practicing for twenty years.

“This guy had to borrow a ton of money just to start his practice,” said August, “not to mention all of the equipment he had to buy. It took him eighteen years to pay off his loans. I was like, ‘Okay, I’m twenty years old, so the next twenty years of my life are going to suck.’ I thought, ‘I don’t know how, but I’m a surfer, I gotta find something,’ so I just called Hap Jacobs and told him I wanted a job.”

So the rest is almost history. August didn’t know what he was going to do at Jacobs’ Surfboards, maybe fix dings or something. But Jacobs had other ideas.

“’How about being a salesman?’ he asked me. “And I was like, ‘Man, you think I could sell a surfboard?”

Now, the rest is history.

47 years after the fact, August’s company, Robert August, is one of the most successful surfing enterprises in the sport’s history. He doesn’t even have to tag the word “surfboards” on the end. His product sells on the name alone. But it almost didn’t happen.

Thankfully, he went through his sliding door.

And, thankfully, so did I.

No related posts.

How many times have you stopped to focus on your breathing only to find that you are taking very short breaths or maybe even holding your breath in times of stress?  This is completely counter to what your body needs.  According to Breathing.com, breathing provides 99% of our energy.  Now imagine that you could only take that essential breath through one of those tiny plastic coffee stir straws.  What made me think so much about breathing?  Well it happened quite by accident one day while cruising on my longboard.

So there I was paddling around in small surf one Saturday morning in Laguna Beach.  The water was freezing cold.  For some reason the temperature dropped into the 50’s in the middle of July.  Another day of June Gloom (which never seems to come in June anymore), and I was pretty confident that I had the surf all to myself.  Twenty minutes later, tents are popping up.  Then dozens of kids show up with their boards, parents too, but the most surprising of all were the professional surfers.  Now we know these guys never get up at 8am to ride 1-2 foot surf at Thalia Street, especially when the water is cold.  So what gives?

Pro lifting Brooke Montelone — age 6

As it turns out, they were all here in support of the Mauli Ola Foundation.  Sure I had heard the name before, and like everyone else, I called it The Maui Ola.  Close enough, right?  No, Mauli Ola means “breath of life” in Hawaiian.  Pretty cool, huh?  These guys are all about helping people overcome the challenges of living with Cystic Fibrosis, a disease that affects the respiratory system.   The Mauli Ola Founders discovered that ocean activity is a treatment for Cystic Fibrosis.  Wow, how cool is that?  I always felt that surfing was healing, but this takes it to a whole new level.

For most of us, coughing is enough to clear our lungs, but for people with cystic fibrosis, coughing is not enough.  Lung airway surfaces in CF patients are dry, which makes the mucus harder and stickier.  When patients inhale saltwater, it causes their lungs to re-hydrate by adding a layer of water to the airway surface.  The ocean water acts as a lubricant, which makes it easier to clear the mucus.

I decided to stay right in the middle of the group as the Pro surf instructors each paddled out with one kid.  This was more like a big family reunion than a surf instruction.  Oh, yeah, there was a lot of talk about the cold water, but I never heard anyone complain. Did I mention it was in the 50’s?  These young surfers were having too much fun and did not want to get out of the Ocean. I could sense the camaraderie and friendship among every member of this group.  I immediately wanted to know more about these kids and find out how surfing has changed their lives.

When I got back on the beach I decided to spend a little time observing this event while I shook the water out of my ears.  There was this one big dude in particular with a bullhorn yelling out commentary about the kids while they surfed.  He also cracked the mandatory jokes about the surf pros/instructors.  I introduced myself to the ring leader, Bobby Serna.

Bobby gave me the quick history of The Mauli Ola Foundation.  “Charlie Dunlop read an article on CNN.com about the positive affects of Ocean water on Cystic Fibrosis and took it to his brother James.  They were both life long surfers, so the light bulb went on. I think Charlie knew exactly what conclusion James was going to draw.   After James read the article he told Charlie, ‘we’ve got to get these kids in the Water’.  This was before The Mauli Ola Foundation; these guys did the first event in 2007 under their own company, Ambry Genetics, but mainly as individuals with a passion for surfing and science.  The two worlds collided at that moment. James contacted CHOC Hospital Along with surfing friends Cordell Miller and Jamie O’Brien and the 1st Cystic Fibrosis Surf Day was held at 28th street in Newport Beach.”

A Young Surfer Charges At The Event

I decided to dig a little deeper and chat with some of the other folks attending the Surf event. The more I talked to these people, the more I realized that an impressive number of Pro surfers and other great athletes have already come forward to support this cause.  But everyone was quick to remind me that the real stars are the kids.  That’s where the inspiration comes from.  The leaders of the Foundation, The Surf Pros, the parents and volunteers are all inspired by the kids.

So I watched the kids.  I saw this one girl taking off and riding waves like it was no big deal. Now seriously, c’mon, all surfers know that it is a big deal to stand up and ride a wave when you’re a beginner.  We all took the essential nose dive “pearls” as we learned this new skill.  I had to meet this surf chick.  Turns out her name is Taylor Ross, She’s nine and she’s been surfing for 1 ½ years.  Like most of us she’s addicted to surfing.  Taylor surfs four times a week.  She would probably surf more if she had a driver’s license.  Luckily she has something even better, an extremely supportive family.  Taylor also gets plenty of support from the surf community.  When I asked for her favorite memory, she told me “, Surfing with Kala Alexander; knowing that a pro like him was willing to teach a little girl the ins-and-outs of riding.”  After Saturday’s event Taylor asked her Dad if she could make money from surfing.  He told her she could and she replied “, Nice, I never have to get a job!”  (Her Dad is stoked about this?  Where was he when I was nine?)

Taylor Ross

I asked Taylor what it’s like when she first gets in the Ocean water.  “When the water isn’t too cold it feels awesome coughing up all the ‘yukkies’ stuck in my throat and lungs,” she said.  “When I’m done surfing I can take deep breaths and it lets me live a normal life….at least for the rest of the day.”

Next I spoke with Pro surfer Kala Alexander who was one of Taylor’s first surf instructors (Not bad learning to surf with a famous North Shore local).  Kala was quick to point out the influence the kids have had on the Pros.  “I’ve never met anyone as tough as these kids,” said Kala. “The amount of pills and hospital visits these kids have to do, but they still get stoked and count the days until they surf.  After 39 years of surfing I sometimes take it for granted, but these kids get me stoked about surfing one foot waves.  Taylor has the same Stoke that I saw when Malia Manuel and Bethany Hamilton were her age.  She’s got the right attitude.  She could be the first professional surfer with CF.” Kala also has the vision of taking Mauli Ola to all kids.  “Get them off the sofa; off the video games and get them surfing.  It’s great for self-esteem and it’s a great sense of accomplishment.”

Kala urged me to meet the Montelone Family.  They have five children ranging in ages from four to eight (Two sets of twins for you math majors).   Michael age 8, Brooke age 6 and Gavin age 4 have CF, while Brian age 6 and Grace age 4 do not.  Like most parents, Rob and Paulette have a full schedule taking care of so many young children.  Add in the extra responsibilities that come with treating Cystic Fibrosis, and most of us would naturally expect Mom and Dad Montelone to be exhausted.   However, as Kala pointed out, these people are extremely enthusiastic and bring tons of positive energy wherever they go.  In Kala’s words “They are a pleasure to work with.”

Paulette Montelone explained the effects of surfing on the entire family.  “At the end of every surf day Rob and I are overjoyed with how the day has gone.  The children have had fun, loads of attention, and a salt water treatment.  What could be better? Despite our exhaustion at the end of the day, after the children have gone off to bed, we find ourselves talking well into the wee hours of the morning and looking at the pictures of the day.  Surfing is a sport that we may never have considered without the help of the Mauli Ola Foundation and now it is becoming a way of life. Mauli Ola and surfing have brought such tremendous joy for our whole family.  We cannot thank Mauli Ola enough!”

Next it was time to hear from these cool kids:

“It feels fun because the waves take me for a really long ride and I get to stand up.  When I get out in the ocean it makes me cough which my mom says is good for me because I get out the gunk in my lungs.  Surfing means that my life will be better because surfing is a natural treatment.”  -Michael, 8

“It feels super fun.  It is like an upside down roller coaster because it goes so fast.  I am not scared to surf because it is so fun.  Surfing helps to get all the yucky stuff out of my nose and lungs.  Surfing is good for me because it is super fun.”  – Gavin, 4

“It is cool that I get to surf even though I don’t have CF.  It is hard to have brothers and sisters with CF because they have to do treatments all the time and do other things without me and Brian.  It makes me sad that my brothers and sisters have CF.  Surfing makes us happy because we can all surf together.”  -Grace, 4

Kala Alexander and MMA star BJ Penn with the Montelone Family

I was also introduced to an extremely stoked young surfer named Caleb Remington.  Caleb is 20 years old.  He moved out to California from Chicago soon after he discovered that that surfing was going to help him breathe better and strengthen his body at the same time.  By strengthening his body, Caleb will have better results when battling respiratory infections.

“As I googled CF and surfing, I discovered that the Ocean does wonders for CF
patients,” Said Caleb. “Little did I know that Mauli Ola and the Cystic Fibrosis Foundation had the entire surf community behind the disease raising awareness and thousands of dollars to find a cure.  After reading all this, I wanted to jump out of the hospital bed and run to California because I knew God had one awesome adventure lined up for me!   When I got in the water and paddled out for the first time, it felt like a gallon of mucus leaving my throat.”

Caleb Remington

Even though Mauli Ola has attracted big names like Kelly Slater and Rob Machado, the kids I spoke with gave all the credit to people Like Mauli Ola Team Manager Dougie Tanaka Jr. who has taken Caleb under his wing, and Laguna Beach local, Steven “Sli Dawg” Chew who apparently taught Taylor some essential surfer slang, as well as riding skills.  “Brah” is her new favorite term according to her Dad.  Thanks Sli Dawg.

I kept hearing words like family and support.  Everyone I met said that they would do whatever it takes to get the word out about Mauli Ola.  Not one complaint.  These kids do not have it easy.  Caleb was hospitalized three times last year, but he’s completely stoked.  He’s breathing better, he’s eating better and he’s getting stronger.

Hopefully we will all get the chance to meet and surf with such an inspiring group of people.  In the meantime, enjoy your surfing, and above all enjoy your breathing.

For more information please visit www.mauliola.org

Watch Caleb surfing, breathing and getting stoked http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Zd793tMpko

~~~~~

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Corky Carroll, the King of Surfeneese"

While browsing through my mammoth stack of unread surf magazines the other day, I happened to run across the May 2010 issue of Surfer, which contained yet another article on surfing lingo entitled “The Language of Surf.”

It seems like about once every decade, the current language of surf, or as Corky Carroll says, our surfucabulary, must be tossed aside, and replenished with a whole new various assortment of nouns, adjectives, verbs and phrases.

Now, Corky is the King of Surfeneese. He is currently compiling his entire surfucabulary over on his website. Corky goes so far as to give you the meaning of each term, as well as how to uses it in everyday conversation. Case(s) in point:

KICK OUT:  a maneuver used to get out of a wave.  Also used to mean “leaving.”  Kinda like, “This party sucks, I’m kickin’ out.”

Or:

LOG:   another word for a longboard.  “Ah man, here comes Mickey on that giant log again.”  Why are all loggers named Mickey?  A group of loggers create a logjam.

While Corky is compiling his own list of surf terms, his surfucabulary does contain many of the terms that appeared in the recent Surfer article. “The Language of Surf” was done quite nicely, an in-depth look into current, as well as past, terms and phrases.

My personal favorite was Fish Killing, which Surfer defined as:

“Also known as the “Huntington Hop,” a pathetic up and down maneuver to keep the surfer moving forward.”

I, personally, couldn’t agree more. The move is pathetic. Granted, we see it in competition all the time, where it comes into play as a viable way to achieve a higher score on a wave. But if you’re not in competition, casually surfing your local break, trust me, you look like an idiot. If you’re just getting into surfing, listen to the Surfer editors, man. That pumping up and down, or Fish Killing, is a bad habit to get into.

As well as introducing a few new terms, Surfer writer Brad Melekian offered up a sidebar entitled “The Words I Won’t Say,” and the editors even created a cemetery for terms and phrases they claim to never use again.

And I must admit, I am deeply saddened at the passing of one in particular: Hot Dogging.  Surfer’s heartfelt eulogy to Hot Dogging read:

“In the prime of its life, Hot Dogging existed at the highest level of our culture’s performance. Cutbacks, noserides, cross-stepping – Hot Dogging encapsulated them all. Long-suffering, its deathblow came at the hands of college students who used it to describe a lewd prank. Attempts by hipsters to revive this unfortunate soul have, so far, proven unsuccessful.”

How sad. Rest in peace Hot Dogging. You will be dearly missed.

You see, my older brother Jimmy was a Hot Dog, and before he ever let his little brother even attempt to surf, he sat him down on the seawall of the China Casino (now the Courtyard Marriott), at the foot of 15th Avenue North in Jacksonville Beach, during the summer of  ’64, and stressed to him the importance of knowing the correct surf lingo.

That day, Jimmy pointed out a couple of other Hot Dogs, way too many Ho-Dads and quite a few Beach Bunnies that he considered Bitch’n, all of this to a little 7 year-old Gremmie who just wanted to hop on the nearest Hot Stick and surf.

My brother Jimmy and I, 40 years after he taught me the "Lanugage of Surf"

And as it would turn out, that lesson would prove invaluable, for you can’t bingo if you don’t know the lingo, right? And once Jimmy felt I was ready, that same summer, I rode my first wave, a mushy little pile of whitewater, on my beloved brother’s 9’0” Log, straight towards shore. Man! Talk about Stoked!

Every journey has its genesis, and now, 46 Gnarly years and thousands of Primo waves later, I am, ironically, squeaking out a living at the hands of the proper use of surf terminology, or surfeneese, as Corky would say.

Thanks for the lesson Bro. You’re still one Totally-Rad-Dude.

Related posts:

1. Kook Sued For Breach Of Surfing Etiquette
2. Surfing: The Sport Of Kings
3. Ricochet, The PAWsome Surfing Dog

Remember Mr. Smith Goes to Washington?

Well, I almost Went to Hollywood.

It all began when I did an article on the surfing documentary Hollywood Don’t Surf! and its premier at the Cannes Film Festival. The article was so riveting, so enthralling that it was picked up by such heavy hitters as Surfline and FuelTV.

Now, if you’re not familiar with Hollywood Don’t Surf!, it’s “a comedic romp examining fifty years of Hollywood surfing films.” From Gidget, to those dreadful Beach Blanket movies, to Big Wednesday and Blue Crush, Tinsel Town has never managed to get it right.

“So many Hollywood filmmakers have tried to capture the essence of surf culture on the big screen, only to be rebuffed by surfers and critics alike,” says Hollywood Don’t Surf! director/screenwriter Sam George.

Sam George interviews Frankie Avalon for "Hollywood Don't Surf!"

While it’s a fact that Hollywood hasn’t successfully brought the essence of the surf culture to film, they haven’t exactly been able to do it in other sports, either. Let’s face it: Hollywood doesn’t play golf or baseball either.

Well, as it turned out, Hollywood Don’t Surf! made big waves (yes, pun intended) at Cannes. I wrote a follow-up article, and then I decided to look into its stateside status. I’m milking this thing, baby. There are more stories here than surfers at my local break, almost.

Hollywood Don't Surf! crew at the Cannes Film Festival. Producer Chris Kobin is far right.

So I surfed over to Hollywood Don’t Surf!’s facebook page and inquired into the film’s stateside premier. They graciously replied immediately, stating that negotiations with distributors were happening “as we speak” and that there was the possibility of a private screening in Beverly Hills on Tuesday of the following week.

Well, because I am now such a bigwig fancy-dancy writer, having graced such websites as Surfline and FuelTV, I thought I might contact Kathy Kohner Zuckerman, the original Gidget, who is featured prominently in the movie, and inquire if she might just be planning to attend the screening. Hey, there is yet another potential story here, as well.

Gidget replied: “I would LOVE to go. Can you get me three tickets?”

“Hey, no prob, Gidg,” I tell her. “I’m on it.”

Boy, is that some BS! C’mon, I’m a writer. From Jacksonville Beach, Florida, no less. How in heck’s name am I going to secure three tickets to a private Beverly Hills screening for an icon like Gidget?

Well, it just so happens, that, in the midst of contemplating this enormous dilemma, I get a facebook friend invite from Chris Kobin. I know that name, but this must be a joke. Chris Kobin is a producer for Hollywood Don’t Surf!. It’s got to be a joke.

It isn’t.

So I write a long-winded, fanny-kissing thank you note back to Chris, mentioning that I just so happen to know Kathy Kohner and I’m wondering if the Hollywood producer might be interested in having Gidget be in attendance at his private screening. And, oh yeah, by the way, would he be willing to cough up three tickets for her and friends?

Kobin replies: “Hey, thanks for contacting me, Marion. We have not yet set the screening date, but we would be thrilled to have both her and you there.”

Booiiinnng!

“Thrilled,” he said. “Thrilled…for me to be there.”  “There,” he said, meaning of course, the private showing in Beverly Hills. Beverly Hills, California. Swimming pools and movie stars.

So, while the rest of America was celebrating the Memorial Day weekend, I was now jostling my schedule for a flight to LA to rub shoulders with Gidget and the Hollywood Elite.

Or not.

Unfortunately, I was unable to make the screening, but I did catch up with Kobin and Gidget the following morning, which ironically was a Wednesday, a Big Wednesday. They were both “stoked” with the private screening. And as Chris related what had gone down at the screening, I was about to be really stoked, as well.

“I’m happy to say, last night more people showed up than we had planned on,” Kobin told me. “We even had to set up seats in the aisle.”

In what Kobin told me was a “relaxed, yet expectant and upbeat” mood, screenwriter Sam George and wife Nia Peeples, played hosts to a full house of a select group of distributors and special invitees who definitely liked what they saw.

“Totally excellent film!!!” said Patrick Landon

“Great job guys!!” added Ron Green. “Sweet! Loved it. Well done.”

That was very cool for Kobin, who, fortunately, liked what he saw, as well.

“I always stand or sit in the back of the room when showing a film I am working on, so I can look at people’s reactions,” he said. “And when the first group of comedic stuff came up in a survey of silly 1960s beach flicks, the laughs came loud and on cue. That feels like a signpost to me, and when people laugh early, I can relax slightly, knowing that the heavy hitters, Greg Noll and Gary Busey, are on their way with their commentary on surfers and filmmakers.”

As it turned out, Kobin wasn’t the only person watching from the back of the room. Also in attendance was Gidget, herself (thanks in part to your favorite Surfing Handbook surfwriter). And then George made a point of paying tribute to her at the screening’s conclusion.

Kathy Kohner Zuckerman, aka "Gidget" was the hit of the evening

“Sam had Kathy Kohner stand, after the screening, pointing out, quite rightly, that the ENTIRE genre of surf films can be traced to her decision to talk her dad into writing Gidget,” said Kobin. “Literally, everyone in the room was there because of the diminutive lady in the back of the audience. That was a cool moment.”

“It was pretty, pretty amazing,” Gidget told me. “Sam George introduced me to all. Kool! Thank you soooo much.”

While I never made it to Hollywood, I assured the “diminutive lady” that it was all, indeed, my pleasure. And although I wasn’t in attendance, I was basking in the glory of playing a small part in that “cool moment” from the previous night.

So, that’s… how I almost “Went to Hollywood.”

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Petroglyph Surfboards are made from soild Koa wood planks harvested on the BIg Island of Hawaii more than one hundred years ago

I may be a writer, but I’m also a reader. And I thoroughly enjoyed Andrew Nash’s recent article entitled “The Alaia Is Back.”

Really got me wanting one, regardless of whether or not I can ride it. I just want one, so I started doing a little research.

Found out I could make my own by ordering a kit! Boy, wouldn’t that be a hoot! Naw, better not, could hurt myself, not to mention what I’d do to the wood.

Then I found this guy close to me in St. Augustine who builds them…definitely a possibility.

No sooner do I get off the phone with the guy, when some guy posts a photo on the “My First Surfboard” facebook page. It’s a cool little group where people talk and reminisce about, yep, you guessed it, their first surfboards.

Turns out, this guy’s name is Greg Hall. Don’t know him, but his post reads:

“My first board was a 50-50. Now I have an old plank of Koa Wood out in the shed out back.”

"...Now I have an old plank of Koa Wood out in the shed out back.”

Obviously some kind of joke, because the “old plank” in the photo is a piece of solid Koa, and perhaps the most beautiful piece of wood I have ever seen. Now, I do know a little bit about alaias, their history and such. And I know that the original alaias, the ones from a thousand years ago, were built out of Koa wood planks, just like the one sitting “out in the shed out back.”

I call him.

And what I find out over the next hour and a half, totally blows my mind. It’s no wonder this board is so beautiful. There’s a story behind it, and all Petroglyph Surfboards, for that matter.

Greg Hall is an architect, living in Altamont Springs, Florida. He is also the owner of Petrolgyph Surfboards, which are not your ordinary surfboards. These boards are special. Very special.

So, back to Greg Hall.

He is an accomplished big wave rider, and he is a terrific board shaper — as I was to find out, he’s been shaping boards for more than 40 years.  He began shaping boards in Central Florida out of his mom and dad’s house, and then moved his craft to Hawaii in 1970. He opened a little shop in Haleiwa, but he was forced to shut the doors when Pizza Bob came to town.

Fortunately for Greg, he had built up quite a reputation as both a board shaper and big wave rider up on the North Shore. He had done what few haoles manage to do: He earned the respect of the local Hawaiians. So when the City of Haleiwa built the “Haleiwa Surf Center,” they offered Greg a job.

“The surf center had its own surfboard shaping factory,” says Greg. “They wanted me to teach water safety and surfboard building to all the local kids. I took the job, which only paid like fifty dollars a week, but I became the first and only government-paid surfboard builder.”

Greg spent five years at the “Haleiwa Surf Center,” teaching the locals the art of surfboard making. After 14 years of living on the North Shore, Greg moved to Honolulu, went to college, got a degree in architecture and started his own business. And then, as surprising as life can always be, he met a fellow Floridian, married her and moved back Central Florida where he spent the next 12 years practicing architecture and raising a family.

And then, a couple of years ago, the funniest thing happened.

“Out of the blue I get this call from some lawyers,” recalls Greg. “And they ask me if I’m the Greg Hall that shaped boards in Haleiwa back in the 70s. I go, ‘Yeah,’ and they tell me that this Hawaiian guy has passed away, and that I am to attend the reading of his will at an undisclosed place somewhere in Florida.”

Florida?

Greg did not recall the Hawaiian, for many people had passed through the surf center during his tenure there, but Greg was, indeed, curious, to say the least.

“As it turns out, this guy had brought his great-grandchildren into the shop some 30 years ago,” says Greg. “I used to shape boards with them, but I also put them to work. ‘Hey, sand that board over there,’ I’d tell them. But, as I found out, the old man thought it was really cool, what I did for those kids.”

So cool, that Hall had obviously won the respect of the elder Hawaiian, who Greg would now learn had been an accomplished surfer himself, having shared waves with the likes of Johnny Weismueller, Tom Blake and Duke Kahanamoku during the 1920s.

And now, Greg was off to attend the reading of this man’s will, at an undisclosed place somewhere in Florida.

Florida?

Well, as it turns out, the elder Hawaiian had been a ship’s captain for a shipping firm. Many years ago, he had shipped thousands of board feet of Koa and other exotic woods to Florida with intentions of erecting a house, but the home was never built, and the wood just sat in a warehouse for decades.

So Greg was driven to the undisclosed location for the reading of the will.

“All the kids were there,” he says. “They are now in their thirties, but they remembered me. They gave me a hard time, reminding me how I had worked them, always made them all sticky and itchy from the fiberglass and resin. They were like, ‘Brah, you still look the same,’ and all, but they remembered me.”

So the will was read.

Greg was informed that he was the recipient of all of that genuine Koa wood. It was his to keep, for free. Thousands of board feet of it. Solid planks.

Just a few of the sloid Koa planks that Greg received. The tall one is 15' long.

“They told me it was all mine,” says Greg. “But only under the following stipulations: One, I was to never divulge the name of the family or the location of the wood. Two, I was not to pay for any of it. Three, I could use all I wanted. And four, I could only use it to build surfboards.”

And that…is why Petroglyph Surfboards are so very special. They were meant to be made.

And they were meant to be made by Greg Hall.

Who wouldn't want it?

And, oh yeah, I do want one.

Related posts:

1. When Surfboards Defined A Society
2. The Alaia Is Back
3. Surfing: The Sport Of Kings

Getting better at surfing is something that will happen just by surfing, for a time. But surfers like Kelly Slater and Josh Kerr don’t just go for a surf session every day and stumble onto the pro surfing scene, like the Billabong Pro Jeffreys Bay tournament.

Pro surfers watch what they eat and they work out outside of the water in ways they know will improve their performance in the water. Their workouts are designed to improve agility, speed, balance, flexibility, and explosive power (used for maneuvers like launching off the lip).

In fact, 75% of all pro surfers reportedly work out, outside of the water. And the 25% who don’t work out have become pro’s in spite of their lack of a work out. Bottom line: Going pro isn’t an accident, and if you’re willing to go the extra mile, you could make it.

If you’ve been surfing for a while, you no doubt have balance down really well.  However, this is one area you can always improve on and become a stronger surfer.

Perhaps when you surf you fall down on waves you know you could have ridden longer.   You lay in bed at night, still feeling the rocking of the waves, and you think about waves you caught–and lost. Maybe if you had crouched lower, or looked ahead, you could have stayed on longer. Maybe if you worked on your balance as part of a workout routine you would have had the balance skills to hang on through a rough spot.

Teach your body and mind to be more prepared out of the water than it will need to be while in the water, and your surfing will improve.

Here are five ways to improve your balance and surf stronger:

Learn to look ahead in the water, not down at your feet.

1. Balancing with Eyes Shut – For this exercise, you stand on the balls of your feet (the front of your feet, by your toes). Your heels hang off the edge of whatever you stand on. For example, you could stand on a step on a staircase, or on the edge of a sturdy box, with your heels hanging in the air. Close your eyes, and let the fun begin.

Hold your hands in the air in front of your chest. Keep your ankles relaxed and be ready to make quick and small adjustments. With your eyes closed, your body will want to lean forward, and if you over-correct, you may find yourself falling backward. Make small adjustments to your stance to continue standing in the initial position.

This exercise is fun and will improve your balance dramatically. If you’ve been finding yourself staring down at your surfboard and feet while surfing, this exercise will help you learn to balance while looking ahead at the water.

Get Ready to Hang 10

2. Walk a Tight Rope – Setting up a tight rope to walk on isn’t as complicated as it sounds. You need a rope, and you tie it very tightly at two points, about 6-12 inches off the ground.

Carefully step onto the rope and focus on putting one foot in front of the other. It isn’t important to make it all the way across the first try, and it isn’t important to walk quickly.

If you want to hang 10, you have to get proficient at putting one foot in front of the other. At least you aren’t also being moved along on your surfboard by a wave that tilts left and right. Considering the difficulty of hanging 10, walking the tight rope is child’s play.

Prepare to Get Shoved

3. Balance on One Foot, Bend at the Waist – Keep your spine straight, and bend at the knee while balancing on only one foot. Let your arms hang down in front of you, and keep your knees bent. It’s easy to get into one position like this, so now move your upper body to the left, the right, and try different angles. When it’s too easy for you, pick a position, and close your eyes. Use your arms to make quick and small adjustments to maintain your balance.

This exercise is fun and prepares you for unexpected wave movements. All those times you flew forward on your surfboard are the times you’re preparing for with this exercise.

Improve Balance and Improve Your Ab Strength

4. Stand on One Foot and Play Catch – This is a fun exercise you can do at the beach with a fellow surfer. While standing on one foot, toss an object back and forth. If you have a medicine ball, use it. If not, use anything, even a football or basketball.

Make it a game, with both of you standing on one foot, tossing the object back and forth, and see who loses their balance first. For improved ab strength, a 5 pound medicine ball is best. If you fall down, you gain a point; first person to get 10, loses.

On Land Surfing

5. Skate – Skating is the next best thing to surfing, and it’s what we do when the surf is flat. Skateboarding requires balancing of your whole body while you move along at a fast pace and make unexpected moves and turns. Improve your skating and you improve your surfing.

Do you actively focus on becoming a better surfer by improving your balance? What methods do you use?

Our friends at Texas Surfers hooked us up with this article. Check them out!

Related posts:

1. Surf Tip – Looking Down The Line
2. Surf Tip: How NOT To Be A Donkey
3. Surf Tip: Preventing Leash Tangles