Sara Taylor and Ornella Pellizzari rolled down to Trestles on Thursday where they were greeted with the emptiest Lowers lineup they had ever seen. For an hour there was literally only one other person out. It was an all you can eat wave feast. Doesn’t get much better.

Music:
Lana Del Rey – Blue Jeans (PatrickReza Dubstep Remix)

Now, fifteen years later, I still dream of the storybook beginning, middle, and end.  Obviously, the grind routine of work isn’t it, vacations are, which is why I work so hard to save up a little extra coin every couple months to open that book, and take a corporeal read through its pages.

So in this edition of California Trachts, we opened the book…the story book of Carmel, California.  From the crystal blue beach break peaks set in the waters off the legendary Pebble Beach golf course, to the Lamplighter Inn and Suites Bed and Breakfast, to the Flying Fish Grill and the Forge in the Forest restaurants, we moved, like fiction characters from one “wow” to the next in a town that seemed created by a story-teller for mom, dad, and the kids, surfer or not.

In Carmel, at least from what we’ve found as a surf family, if you want the ultimate storybook experience, you call the Lamplighter Inn Bed and Breakfast and book a room with the owner Bobby or one of his awesome staff, you just do!

Now if you’ve never been to Carmel, to me, and especially my wife, it is one of the most quaint towns coupled with one of the prettiest beaches we’ve ever been to in all our travels around the world.

Bobby is the owner of the Lamplighter Inn B & B and has become a friend of mine.  This is the exact reason why I always book rooms at his B & B, and why my wife and I love staying at B & B’s when we are scavenging for great locales of both waves and quaint family get-a-way towns up and down the coast.  When you stay at a B & B, you not only get a free breakfast, which is one of the best parts, but you become a part of the hotel for the night.  B & Bs are almost always family run, and their livelihood depends on the success of their Inn.  For that reason, owners, like Bobby, and the rest of the staff make you a friend even though you’re in a foreign town.

As far as the rooms at the Lamplighter, they are a legitimate 10 out of 10 in my book.  Storybook, English cottage styled on the outside, and, at least in our room, the Porpoise Room, the interior was sort of a Cape Cod decor that left my wife and I with jaws dropped and hearts warmed.  We walked into our room in awe, having not taken a vacation that inspired us in a long time… Then my three year old pushed passed us and threw his bag of cars on the floor and my baby cried, but that didn’t ruin the night, the mood was already set.

At night, the wood burning fire place in the room was great for smores until the kids went to bed, then as it simmered down, the burning coals helped keep the room warm to a evening cup of coffee.

As far as proximity to surfing, the Lamplighter Inn is the best place in town for a surfer.  It’s the closest hotel or Inn to Carmel Beach, only three blocks away.  Not to mention that it has a killer outdoor shower for when you are done with your session and you walk back up the street, feet sandy, and hands cold.  As for surf, this is one of my favorite beach breaks in California because of it’s crystal clear Hawaii-like water color, and the sublime backdrop of cascading wooded mountains to the south, on the Big Sur side.  On it’s day, glassy and head high, this wave produces barrels and speedy walls as good as any beachie I’ve ever surfed.  It’s often inconsistent, and when the wind comes up perfection is quickly eroded, but if you time the conditions right, this long beach has plenty of peaks to seek out a lonely wave to yourself.

On the romantic/stoke your wife and kids out side of things, proximity is also top-notch.  Being that the B & B is right on the main drag, Ocean Blvd, it’s just an easy stroll, within a few blocks to the main shopping area.

One of the great restaurants we found and loved was The Flying Fish Grill. It sits uniquely cascaded down a small stairwell on Ocean Ave. and Mission St.  The food represented an artistic display of seafood delicacies.  It is a great date restaurant, but the ambiance was fun with the kids as well in the early evening, around 5: 30pm, when we seemingly had the restaurant to ourselves.

Another one of our favorites restaurants, and maybe my son’s favorite due to desert cookie that was pan baked and as big as our plate,  The Forge in the Forest, was not only family romantic, but family friendly for our small group of four.  The service was friendly and relaxed, and the outdoor patio seating had a great forest-like feeling.  The food was well, comparable to a perfect tube ride.  The salmon left my wife stoked and thanking me for a great trip, and the t-bone steak melted in my mouth and hit the spot of a “man’s steak” after a good morning session down the hill surfing Carmel beach.

Shopping-wise, guys, you must take your girlfriend or wife to Lush, a soap and body store, and I was stoked on Liquid Surf Shop, the surf shop in town (if you go by, tell the owner Sean we said hi, he’s a killer guy).  As far as stoking out the kids, if they are old enough to surf and you want to get them out there in the water so you and the wife can have a couple minutes to yourself, send them to Learn to Surf with the Carmel Surf School” run by Noah Greenberg.  Noah is one of the best surfers in the area, and a few of his camp instructors are professional surfer’s too (Johnny Craft to name one).  Conversely, if you’re kids are small like ours, there is a quaint little toy store in the middle of town.

All in all, Carmel has become a go-to location for my family because of it’s quintessential vacation feel.  Your mental trajectory slides softly into to another world and the stresses of your everyday life become left behind. The town is quaint, clean, romantic, fun, and filled with epic beach break potential, which is why Carmel is sure to satisfy all qualms on the western front.

]]> http://www.surfinghandbook.com/2011/12/california-trachts-carmel-edition/feed/ 2 http://www.surfinghandbook.com/2011/09/checking-in-with-stewart-surfboards/ http://www.surfinghandbook.com/2011/09/checking-in-with-stewart-surfboards/#comments Sun, 18 Sep 2011 16:58:06 +0000 Dave Christensen http://www.surfinghandbook.com/?p=2424

One of the great things about surfing is the accessibility of the true icons of the sport.  Computer geeks ain’t getting close to Bill Gates or Steve Jobs.  But we surf geeks can walk right into Stewart Surfboards and chat up Bill Stewart on any given day.  In case you don’t know, Bill has more than likely been a big part in developing some aspect of your quiver, whether it is the fin set-up, the airbrush technique or the actual shape of the board itself.

Born in Bowling Green Kentucky in 1951, Bill  Stewart moved to California and worked various jobs in the surfing industry before opening Stewart Surfboards in 1978.  For over four decades Bill has been creating one of a kind custom surfboards. Bill was the second person to ever airbrush on a surfboard and was voted best airbrusher by Surfer Magazine in 1980.   In 1984, he developed the Hydro Hull, a double concave design. A major positive influence on the modern longboard scene , Bill is the inventor of the 2+1 fin configuration, as well as co-inventor of the Futures Fins system box.  Surf any of the numerous breaks up and down the California coast and you will undoubtedly see someone riding equipment with the classic Stewart logo.

Stewart Surfboards has grown to become a worldwide recognized and respected brand. The company eventually moved to a bigger shop in San Clemente where they still reside today, just minutes from the world famous Trestles surf break and San Onofre.  I couldn’t wait to drop in and find out what new toys are coming down the pipe.

Tonto welcomes all to Stewart Surfboards

The first thing you notice when walking into Stewart Surfboards is that the staff is really nice.  No, not fake nice.  Real nice.  Friendly, but not over-bearing.  You are welcomed in to browse or ask questions, but not bothered and no hard sell.  No attitude here.  They have a used board section upstairs that rivals Craigslist pricing (plus you don’t have to go to some stranger’s house only to find some dinged up piece of you-know-what).  Downstairs is an impressive array of longboards, shortboards, old school fish designs and anything else you might need.

I was asking one of the employees about a product in the store when Bill Stewart came up and introduced himself to me as the guy who designed all this stuff.  I expected some old curmudgeon who had ingested way too much fiberglass dust and had a chip on his shoulder about the way the industry had lost it’s soul.  but instead I got a warm, friendly surfer who was just as passionate and excited to tell me about the history of Stewart Surfboards as he was to talk about his 1,250 square foot Man Cave and his new-found love for playing blues harp.

Bill shared the long history of success for his longboards, ranging from the CMP that won four longboard world titles to the all-time best selling Hydro Hull.  Lately Stewart’s has had a lot of success with the shortboards.  The five fin S-winger has everyone buzzing.  It comes stock with the Futures Scimitar fins and is meant to be ridden as a five fin rather than a convertible thruster/quad.  The word I kept hearing on the S-winger was “speed.”  Also sticking out from the crowd was the Fartknocker.  A short fat wide tailed quad that just looks like fun.  Bill suggests this one for smaller surf, although I heard rumblings of some fun sessions in overhead surf.  Each Fartknocker has it’s own custom airbrush design so you get a board that is uniquely yours.  For around $400 I couldn’t resist and picked one up for my quiver.

The Author's one-of-kind Fartknocker

But the board that really has Bill’s heart pumpin’ is the Redline 11.  Described as the love child of the CMP and the Hydro Hull, the Redline 11 only comes as a nine footer, so the trick is to move the foam around to complement the surfer.  Perfect, now you don’t have to decide between a good paddler, an high performance board and a nose rider.  It’s a dependable pick-up truck in the front and a Porsche in the back.  According to Bill Stewart, this one turns like an 8’6″, paddles like a 9’6″ and noserides like a 10’0″.  Why is it called the Redline 11?  Because this one goes to eleven (thanks for referencing an awesome Spinal Tap quote).

Bill Stewart with his new baby

How have the hardcore longboarders received the Redline 11?  Well, it’s already become the shop’s best seller at two to five orders a day, and recently won the Oceanside longboard nose-riding championship.  Don’t look for a rack of Redline 11′s.  They can’t keep them in stock, so you’re lucky if one or two are laying around waiting to for their owners to pick them up.  Don’t worry, they are making more.  Stewart Surfboards is even partnering up with Global Surf Industries to make the most popular models more available worldwide.  Expect to see Fartknockers, S-wingers, Hydro-hulls, CMP’s, and of course, Redline 11′s.

If that’s not enough to make you want to add a Stewart to your quiver, consider the fact that (According to Bill) no one has ever been bitten by a shark on a Stewart surfboard.  So buy one and you’ve got that going for you!

For more info on Bill Stewart and Stewart Surfboards, please visit www.stewartsurfboards.com.

Bill believes in the Redline 11 so much that he put it in writing

California Trachts: Malibu Edition

A Surf Escape Guide for Family Surfers

By Shawn Tracht

As a surfer, grazing daily at the newest surf magazines and internet websites, we are constantly elbowed in the face with more and more travel journals from guys and gals who have taken off around the world and scored perfect barrels in warm weather.  The problem with this for a family dad, is that the idea of surf travel begins to create an itch in you that can only be satiated by getting out there and finally taking a trip. That being said, when you have a family, ditching the wife and kids to go on an fully inclusive surf trip to Indo or Central America probably isn’t the best way to nourish a good family life.  Omniscient of that fact, some sort of surf escape get-a-way must be devised at least a couple times a year.

So… in an effort to help with some ideas to get you out there, and bring the family along, one answer is to to take off a couple hundred miles up or down your coastline to spots that you know are going off, and are also romantic for your significant other and are family oriented for the kids.

In this addition of California Trachts, we followed the South swells of summer to Malibu, and found just what we were looking for: an epic little Inn and restaurant steps from the beach and with in striking distance of Malibu’s legendary point breaks.

The Waves in Malibu

If you’ve never been to Malibu, it is the hippie scene of Los Angeles.  Even though the conglomeration and pandemonium of a city that houses almost 10 million people lies just over the hill, Malibu, is only accessible by the two-lane Pacific Coast Highway, so the slow drive from the city keeps many wannabe ocean-lifestyler’s stuck in the heat of the inland valley.  That being said, though the percentages of beach goers are low, near 10 million people thinking about the beach still crowds a perfect point break.  Over a hundred people strewn down the point is still a normal day at Malibu Point when the South Swells are pumping.  However, this is one of those places where when you get on the right wave, you’ll be racing and carving for 300 yards plus!

Malibu Is One Of The Gems Of The Californa Coast

Another thing about Malibu Point is that it has three main breaks, so even though the line-up looks unmanageable from the beach, if you spend a couple minutes studying the point, you can usually find your niche.  You’re probably not going to show up here and get thirty waves in two hours, but the few you ride can really be worth it…if you don’t get dropped in on that is.

First Point Malibu is closest to the road, and this is more of the longboard wave.  Second Point is further up, and is noticeable because of the big gap between the longboarders and where the shortboarders are sitting.  Third point is all the way up at the top, and is more beach breaky.  Some guys will even go left on a few a-frame peaks at third point.  Moreover, when your on vaction and the weather is hot, the water is warm, and the swells are pumping, the crowd sort of fades out of your mind because you’re not stuck at home in one foot slosh anymore.

The good news is that Malibu Point isn’t the only good wave in Malibu.  As long as you time a good South Swell, there are a few perfect cobble stone points right off of the highway.  Maybe my favorite is Leo Carillo.  North of Zuma Beach, it breaks right off of these two huge rocks that stick up out of the ocean, and the wave peels all the way to the beach.  When it’s big, the sets actually break behind the rocks, and the dudes sitting outback have to clear the rock section when they take off deep.  If you surf the place all day long, like I did, every hour or two a guy will get held up in the lip on take off and end up in the rocks, “awe dude, I just went through the cheese grader man, did you see that? …How’s my board?  I think I just ruined my wetsuit.”

Leo Carillo

My best bet for catching a lot of waves here was sitting just inside of the rocks, waiting for the guys on the outside to pull out of set waves that they were afraid of taking off on due to the rock factor.

Lastly, if the swell is small, County Line is a really fun beach break with a point that can also get going.  It’s located at the north end of Malibu.  As the swell gets over head, other spots like Big Dume and Super Tubes have been known to churn out some amazing barrels, however, these spots, like most good barrels, are localized.  Topanga Point is also a great wave, and if you don’t want to surf a main spot, Malibu is literally point break city, with random great points viewable from the highway and within a lengthy hike in.

Where to Stay

Lush grounds, Southern California warm weather and an ocean view completed the tri-fecta of a perfect vacation location.  At the Malibu Country Inn, a spacious suite with a fireplace and an ocean view made us feel free.  In the room, we had a jacuzzi tub and a king size bed.  This was perfect for the kids to bathe, my wife to be pampered, and a bed big enough to fit us all comfortably, which is unlike home where we all cram into our queen bed.

Ivy was the hotel manager, a Hawaiian who was born and raised with the Aloha spirit.  This is another reason I love going to small Inns and B & B’s.  The staff thrives only if the hotel does well, thus, they’re generally always friendly and welcoming.  The Malibu Country Inn was no different.  We were stoked with our room, and would just suggest you ask for one of the suites or the newly renovated rooms, as they were the best.

Steps from the Beach

Just steps from our suite was Zuma Beach, which pounded with some heavy beach break barrels.  Growing up in Southern California, I remember and miss the lengthy soft sand beaches scattered with lifeguard towers.  In the early morn, my son, on top of my shoulders, and I strolled down the hill and along some mini trails to the open beach.  Again, cell phones and electronic devices turned off and left at home, he got all of my attention, and we were both stoked.  We raced up and down the beach until I got tired, we sat on lifeguard towers gazing into the sea, and I told him about when I was a kid and how I thought life was best lived.  This time made me happy, and it made the whole trip worth it.   It is a memory that when I dream back of it right now, makes me jealous of my own past.

Our Favorite Place to Eat: Kristy’s Wood Oven And Wine Bar

Both because of it’s decadence, affordability for such a nice restaurant, and welcoming atmosphere, we always had lunch on the property of the Malibu Country Inn at Kristy’s.  The food was elegant, yet filling, which is core to a surfer’s appetite, and for lack of a better cliche, mouth-watering.  For me, taste and a full belly was essential. For my wife, presentation and taste…and all were fulfilled.

We started off with crispy calamari, stacked finely, and topped with a drizzle sauce.  Each bite reminded me of how proud I was to be the dad who could bring my family on a summer vacation and treat them to such a meal…even though I was just a middle class surfer.  From shrimp scampi to a burger that topped a good steak at most restaurants, we couldn’t have lived the dream any more than we did at Kristy’s Restaurant.

Ensuing Weeks After the Trip

Though a surfer always dreams of perfect waves in exotic foreign countries, taking off by yourself on those trips when you’re married with kids just doesn’t fit the genre of family life.  That being said, we surfer’s still need to fulfill our needs for great waves and travel, and this jaunt down the coast definitely did just that.

As for the family, they couldn’t have been more stoked on dad!  I was able to add variety and vibrancy compared to the summers in the past which were stagnant with normal routine.

In final, the ensuing month or so around home brought a renewed sense of companionship and fun with the family.  The memories of running the beach with my son and treating my wife to some romantic dinners kept the stoke of life alive.  I scored head high perfect waves, and even though it wasn’t in Indo, I didn’t really care.  I took care of my own needs as a surfer, as well as my family, which means I’ll hopefully be getting to do this mini surf travel thing a heck-of-a lot more, and hopefully you will too.

Happy Travels!

Contact Information:

Malibu Country Inn: malibucountryinn.com  (877) FUN-N-SUR (Reservations) – Telephone: (310) 457-9622

Kristys Wood Oven & Wine bar: malibucountryinn.com/kristys  Telephone: (310) 457-2602

Malia Manuel winds up

Last week I was privileged to witness some of the best up and coming talent on the female side of pro surfing as they competed in the Supergirl Pro Junior that took place in Oceanside, CA.  It’s not often that you get to watch top pros face off in your stomping grounds.  In my case it was a quick run up I-5 from Encinitas to Oceanside where I was able to hang out on the sand in the shadow of the pier with some friends and get a front row seat.

Headlining the athletes featured in this year’s contest were Malia Manuel and Lakey Peterson, Leila Hurst, Kaleigh Gilchrist, Haley Watson and Taylor Pitz, amongst others.  It was also nice to see fellow New Yorker Quincy Davis representing the North East.

The contest got started in 3-4 foot surf with occasional head high sets.  Initially mushy conditions gave way to punchier surf for the final, which ended up as a shootout between Lakey Peterson, Malia Manuel, Leila Hurst, and Nage Melamed.  Lakey came out on top in the end despite a great effort by Malia.

The final round results were:

1. Lakey Peterson 15.54 points

2. Malia Manuel 12.23 points

3. Leila Hurst 9.83 points

4. Nagé Melamed 6.96 points

Lakey Peterson

The contest was really fun to watch, and if you’ve got some groms and want to get them stoked on a surf contest, keep this one in mind next year.  Access is very easy, and as I said before, you can literally have a front row seat on the beach.

I got a chance to talk to two of the competitors, Taylor Pitz and Haley Watson, who were kind enough to do a couple of short interviews.

Haley Watson

Age: 19
Flagler Beach, FL

SH: What age did you start surfing?

Haley: I actually started surfing not that long ago, when I was 14 years old.  So about 5 years ago.

SH: What’s your home break?

Haley: I’m from Flagler Beach, Florida.  That’s central / northern Florida on the East Coast.  A little surf town.  So I surf at the pier up there.

SH: What surfers did you look up to when you started out?

Haley: My biggest inspiration, that I most look up to, is Freida Zamba.  She’s a great friend of our family, and just an amazing person.  [She's] so talented, such a good heart.  I’m fortunate to have her in my life as a mentor.

SH: If you could surf any wave 4-6 foot and perfect, where would you go and why?

Haley: Probably Trestles!  [laughs] It’s my favorite wave ever…being from Florida.  With nobody out of course.  Well, just my friends.  You can come too! [laughing]

SH: [laughing] Thanks! So what is your favorite thing about surfing?

Haley: My favorite thing would probably be this right here…the events, and all the girls that get together, and the friends I have because of surfing.  It’s not so much the sport, it’s just everything that comes along with it; the lifestyle, and all the incredible people that I never would have met if it wasn’t for surfing.

SH: Any funny moments or misadventures on your surfing travels?

Haley: This summer I surfed in an ESA contest, the Eastern Surfing Association, back at home, and I made it to the final of the open division, which is open shortboard.  It’s mostly boys, I was the only girl in it.  And the horn blew, and we were all running out for our heat, and I tripped over my leash and fell flat on my face.  [laughing] And all the boys just laughed at me!  It’s funny now, thank goodness.

SH: What advice would you give to groms that might want to surf competitively?

Haley: Don’t really focus so much on the competitive side; don’t stress it if you don’t have a coach.  Just do the best that you can, just keep surfing, and everything will work out.

SH: Thanks so much!  Any last words?

Haley: I couldn’t be here at the Supergirl Pro Junior this year without my sponsors; NVR swimwear, Cory Whitlock and the boys at Whitlock here in Carlsbad, …Lost, X-Trak, and the Surf Station.

~~~

Taylor Pitz

Age:19
Laguna Beach, CA

SH: What age did you start surfing?

Taylor: I started surfing when I was 10, and really started getting into it when I was 12.

SH: What’s your home break?

Taylor: My home break is Thalia St. in Laguna.

SH: When you started surfing did you have any surfers that you looked up to or tried to imitate?

Taylor: I’ve kind of always looked up to Carissa Moore, even though she’s about my age.  But she’s been ripping for so long, and I used to watch her videos when I was little.  So probably her…Stephanie Gilmore and all the girls…they all surf so good now.

SH: If you could surf any wave 4-6 ft and perfect, where would you go and why?

Taylor: If it was 4-6 foot and perfect…it doesn’t really matter where it is, because then it’s just perfect! [laughing]  But I guess probably somewhere like the Mentawais, it would be pretty cool and different.

SH: What’s your favorite wave to surf?

Taylor: Lowers.  Without the crowd though! That’s the key [laughing]

SH: What’s your favorite thing about surfing?

Taylor: My favorite thing is probably just being in the ocean; I love being in the water.  It’s so beautiful, especially in Laguna.  I love hanging out with all my friends, and it’s just so much fun.  Every single time it’s different.  My favorite thing to do.

SH: Have there been any misadventures or funny moments on your surfing travels?

Taylor: When we were in New Zealand two winters ago for the ISA World Junior Games with the USA team we were all trying to find our way to this parade of nations.  But it was on the other side of the island from where the actual contest was being held.  The driving there is crazy, since it’s on the other side of the road.  We were this big caravan of vans, and we were going the wrong way on freeway onramps, and just absolute chaos! [laughing].  At one point all the vans were  driving on the side of the road, on a grass field, trying to turn around.  People were honking…we didn’t think we’d make it there alive.  We hadn’t even started surfing yet and we were getting killed driving through New Zealand. [laughing]

SH: So did you make it there?

Taylor: We did!  We finally made it just in time.  The parade was just about to start and we’re running through the streets…me and Lakey and Courtney.  It was just really funny.

SH: What advice would you give to groms that might want to surf competitively?

Taylor: I would say just start small and always still have fun with it.  Contests are serious and you get really into it sometimes, and that’s good — that focus is good.  It helps you do well.  But always keep having fun, and love what you’re doing.  That’s the most important thing.

~~~~

Special thanks to Taylor and Haley for the interviews!

For more great stories and photos featuring some of the best female surfers on the planet, check out our friend JettyGirl.com

~~~~~

]]> http://www.surfinghandbook.com/2011/08/2011-supergirl-pro-junior-goes-down-in-oceanside/feed/ 0 http://www.surfinghandbook.com/2011/07/surf-tip-throwing-buckets/ http://www.surfinghandbook.com/2011/07/surf-tip-throwing-buckets/#comments Tue, 26 Jul 2011 17:40:55 +0000 Shawn Tracht http://www.surfinghandbook.com/?p=2373 Surf Tip - Throwing Buckets – Steps to Creating a Fan Spray

There’s an oozing sensation brewing in your belly.  You’re a little tired paddling back out in the midst of a set, you’re trying to make it under each next up and coming wave, and you’re doing your best to watch, and watch out for on coming shredders throwing buckets out of each turn down the line as they approach you.  As you barely make it over another set wave, a surfer in perfect flow drifts and fades low to the bottom of the wave, letting him/herself get right behind the foam ball.  As you crest over the wave they’re on as you continue to paddle out, the surfer goes out of site for a few seconds…  You look back, and woosh, splitter, gcrash! Buckets of water are hucked out the back of the wave, leaving you drenched, enamored, and longing to someday be that guy or girl who throws those buckets yourself.

If you know that feeling, Then here’s a few basic steps you’ll need to hurl yourself as the new bucket slinger in town:

*  Yes, yes, yes, speed is the key.  The faster you go, the more spray potential…but we all knew this.  Ok, lets begin.

**   Visualization-  Have you ever noticed in surf videos that most surfers who are hitting the lip right in the crease between the foam ball and the lip, began the entire turn from behind the foam ball.  Basically, what you need to do when you’re going down the line, pumping and getting your speed, is think about the fact that you need to get to the bottom of the wave, behind the foam by fading the wave, so that you can then come from behind it with speed and really eye up the section you want to hit.

1.  The idea is that you need to fade your bottom turn behind the wave, behind the foam ball, so that you can see the corner pocket of the section you want to hit.  When you can see the pocket curling down the line, then you just practice, over and over, getting your timing down so that you can come straight up and get it.

2.  When you get to the corner pocket, rotate with your arms, then push as hard as can with your back leg;  this is how you throw buckets!

3.  Don’t celebrate too early, the wave is not over.  Fade your bottom turn behind the foam ball again, always keeping your eyes on the corner pocket that your going to time and come back up and hit again all the way down the line!

Click To Expand This Photo Diagram

Recently I was contacted by someone representing a company called Clandestino, and she asked me if I wanted to try out some of their surfing candy.  My first reaction was, “what in the world is surfing candy?”  I read a bit further, and it became clear that it was actually a small energy bar made from bananas.  Now, I absolutely love bananas.  They are my favorite pre and post surf snack since they’re packed with good stuff, and are pretty easy to carry around with you.  So, I decided to give these surfing candies a try.  I received several different varieties in the mail, as well as a brochure featuring several surfers with their faces covered wild-west style with bandanas.  The first type of candy comes in a white box, and it’s basically a small bar made from what seems to be dehydrated bananas.  It’s actually pretty tasty – a bit more sweet than a regular banana.  There are also chocolate covered varieties – milk chocolate and dark chocolate.  At first it tasted a bit different – I wasn’t sure.  But after having a few they’ve grown on me quite a bit.

I recently participated in the Revolt Summer Surf Series Pier II Pier Pro Am in Pacific Beach, and I didn’t bring enough food with me to the beach.  After surfing my first heat and making it to the finals, I didn’t have enough time to go back to the car, get money, and go buy a snack.  I also didn’t feel like running around the streets of PB in the hot sun.  After walking around the contest area I noticed a few cartons of Clandestino bars at one of the tables.  I was pretty stoked to find them there, ate two, and surfed my way to a pretty decent result in the Women’s open shortboard – placing 4th overall out of 12.  I don’t know if the bars made me surf better, but they saved my butt big time as I was pretty hungry, and I hate surfing when I’m starving since my blood sugar drops and I bottom out.

I’ll tell you what, the dark chocolate one is pretty damn good, and they are kind of fun and handy to have around.  Bananas just don’t keep very long, and sometimes I don’t have a chance to run to the store before a surf session.  These are fun alternatives, and at only 90-109 calories (for plain and chocolate), they are still pretty healthy.  A typical banana will run you around 110-120 calories.  I’d rather eat one of these things than, say, a Quaker Chewy granola bar, or a handful of pretzels or chips.  Since these are made from actual bananas (according to the company, they are Ecuadorian bananas), they aren’t just empty calories.

If you’re looking to try these out, you can buy them at the retailers listed at their website here.  For more information, you can head to the Clandestino website.

Contrary to popular belief, summer is not a season that excites most surfers in northern and central California. Regardless of how the stereotype of sun, sand, surf, and bronzed bodies is portrayed, most surfers in the region view the summer months with a mixture of emotions ranging from frustration and disgust to resignation and grudging acceptance. It is, more often than not, the time of year when one’s favorite board is stowed away in the back of the garage and the small wave boards – the logs, the fishes, the hybrids, and the funboards – are dusted off and carried out into the light of day.

Summer in northern California is generally characterized by marginal surf and agonizingly long flat spells. These, coupled with ferociously strong afternoon winds and crowded beaches, make the summer months not something to be enjoyed but, rather, something to be endured.

Understanding why summer surf in northern California is less-than-advertised requires some basic knowledge of meteorology combined with local weather patterns. The two dominant pressure systems over the northeast Pacific Ocean that affect weather and swell patterns in California are the Aleutian Low and the North Pacific High. During the fall and winter months, the northern hemisphere undergoes its peak season of storm activity. Much of this activity is a result of the Aleutian Low, which, as its name implies, is located in the Gulf of Alaska, near the Aleutian Islands. Like all low pressure systems, it is associated with strong winds, clouds, rain, and generally stormy weather. It is responsible for generating most of the northwest groundswells that batter the California coast during fall and winter. However, during the summer, the Aleutian Low breaks down and is replaced by a large high pressure system – known as the North Pacific High – which migrates northward and develops over the northeastern Pacific Ocean. It sits like the proverbial 800-pound gorilla, affecting nearly all weather patterns that come its way. Most east moving storm tracks are deflected north of the North Pacific High, and thus few storms develop. This results in a significant lack of groundswell waves along the northern and central California coast.

Even the vaunted California stereotype of lazy summer days filled with spacious blue skies and abundant warmth doesn’t quite live up to the hype in this part of the state. Mark Twain was once reputed to have said that the “coldest winter I ever spent was a summer in San Francisco.” He was referring, of course, to the typical pattern of dense fog and overcast skies that typically congregate along the coast during summer. This phenomenon is known as “June gloom,” and is largely a result of the pesky aforementioned North Pacific High, which among other things, generates northwesterly air flow. These northwesterly winds push warm surface waters away from the coast, causing “upwelling.” As every oceanographer knows, upwelling is when colder, nutrient-rich water from deeper depths rises to replace warmer surface waters. This colder water, in turn, interacts with the warmer air and condenses, creating a thick layer of fog. This fog bank typically develops in the morning and burns off by the afternoon, though an entire day of lingering June Gloom is not unheard of.

Strong afternoon winds are also a typical characteristic of summer. These usually appear like clockwork in the early afternoon and can gain strengths of between 10 and 15 knots. They are mainly produced by the North Pacific High in conjunction with hotter interior temperatures. As interior air heats up during the day, it rises, creating low pressure over land. Onshore winds rush in to fill this vacuum of low pressure. These winds can wreak havoc on a surf session by mercilessly chopping the water, creating all manner of bumps and warps that make surfing a challenge.

Afternoon seabreeze can wreck the already small waves

This is not to say, of course, that summer is completely devoid of rideable waves. Notice that I’ve couched the above discussion in words and phrases like “generally,” “frequently,” and “more often than not.” Southern groundswells, generated by winter storms in the southern hemisphere, do occasionally reach the central and northern California coasts. And when they do, they can be epic. Having traveled several hundred miles across the ocean, they have had a chance to organize themselves into long, well-groomed “wave trains.” By the time they hit the reefs, points, and sandbars they can be big, powerful, and flawless – definitely something worth waiting for.

Given all this, then, what’s a Norcal surfer to do? What’s the best way to survive – and perhaps even prosper – during the summer doldrums? Simply hunker down in front of a surf forecast website with a six pack of beer and a bag of chips and hope for the southern hemisphere to throw some swell up north? That’s one possibility, of course, though one that would no doubt get tedious after a while (and fattening). Another possibility is to dedicate oneself to riding crappy wind swell (wind swell waves are produced by localized winds that blow not too far offshore and are characterized by short wave intervals). Although most wind swell waves wouldn’t win any aesthetic awards – they are usually ragged, bumpy, and sloppy – they nonetheless can be fun to ride under the right conditions. And – little known secret – riding crappy waves is actually a great way to improve your overall surfing. If the wave doesn’t offer you much – and most wind swell waves don’t – then it’s your responsibility to make things happen. Riding wind swell forces you to make the most out of each wave and to be creative. In fact, wind swell can actually teach you about all the intricate dynamics of surfing – for instance, how subtle changes in foot placement on your board can dramatically influence your surfing. For example, generating speed on groundswell produced waves doesn’t pose much of a problem. More often than not, it happens by default; other times it requires nothing more taxing than a well-executed bottom turn, where you generate speed as you rush down the face of the wave. However, it takes more of an effort to generate speed on wind swell waves. If the rider doesn’t actively intervene by pumping up and down, weaving from side to side, or staying high up on the wave, then he or she will inevitably stall out. Learning these kinds of subtleties can go a long way in improving your overall surfing.

Typical June Gloom summer day at Waddell Reef

Riding crappy wind swell is also a great time to work on perfecting your maneuvers. View it as a time to practice all those cut-backs, floaters, and lip-bashes you’ve been dreaming about. Maybe you can even throw in an aerial or two. In short, your surfing doesn’t have to be lousy just because the waves are sub-par.

Luckily, there are several other options for surviving a northern California summer. Travel, for one. Summer in northern California is a good time to pack up the boards and get the hell out of Dodge. Seek greener pastures – or in this case, bluer waves – elsewhere. With the southern hemisphere awakening from its own long slumber, numerous places open to a direct southern swell window, like Central and South America, are at their best wave-wise. And for those with deep pockets, make note that places in the Indian Ocean, like Indonesia, the Maldives, and Western Australia, have some of the best surf on the planet. They don’t call the Mentawai island chain the “Disneyland of waves” for nothing.

Still, if certain factors prevent one from traveling, like lack of funds or a hostile spouse, there are other ways of passing the time. The height of a summer lull is a great time to break out that huge paddleboard that’s been gathering cobwebs in your garage. Paddleboarding, whether the current stand up craze, called SUP (for Stand Up Paddling), or the old fashioned prone-on-your-stomach, is a great workout. The New York Times once described it as a “kind of gym in the water.” It’s a full body workout that strengthens the core and provides cardiovascular benefit as well as toning the arms, shoulders and back.

At Waddell Reef, this surfer is just looking to get wet

If, on the other hand, you happen to be landlocked, there are a myriad of things you can do to stay in surfing shape. While most surfers have tended to eschew the label of athlete, surfing is, in fact, a physically demanding sport that requires of its practitioners a goodly amount of physical coordination, balance, and skill. As such, being in good physical shape will help you to be a better surfer. There are several very good exercise DVDs designed specially for surfers that are currently on the market. Taylor Knox, one of my favorite professional surfers, recently put out a workout DVD entitled “Surf Exercises” that emphasizes balance, core strengthening, and stretching – all of which are crucial in advancing your surfing to a higher level. Equally instructive is the DVD “Surf Stronger – The Surfer’s Workout,” which was developed by a strength conditioning specialist and focuses on developing power and flexibility using a fitness ball, light weights, and one’s body weight. It stresses building and strengthening muscles that are typically used in surfing – including the arms, abdomen, and thighs.

For surfers who don’t like strict workout regimens, there are numerous other ways to keep in surf shape during the summer months. Running is one way to develop cardiovascular fitness; vigorous hiking or biking are others. Playing sports like basketball, flag football, soccer or tennis, among many others, are great ways to stay in shape. Yoga is another excellent way to keep the body flexible, supple, and healthy.

The bottom line is to keep active – do something that gets your heart rate up for at least 20 or 30 minutes. (Of course, before undertaking any fitness program consult your physician.).

In short, while summer in northern and central California can often be a challenge for surfers, there are numerous ways to pass the time and stay in top surfing trim. It just requires a little imagination and a willingness to try new things. So, even if the waves suck, get out there and have fun!

So let’s start out as cliche as possible: …like any maneuver in surfing, speed is the number one key to successfully completing your turns.
Phew…now that that’s over…

Seriously though, when trying to successfully complete a 360 reverse off the white water, speed is an asset, but it’s what you do with that speed by controlling it through the turn that has the greatest impact.

Angles: The number one thing to know, with any successful maneuver, is your angles. So as you study the slideshow, and you try to visualize yourself completing this maneuver, be very cognizant of the angles in which my board, head, and arms are facing.

1. When you come towards a white wash section that is heading straight at you, instead of taking a steep bottom turn, you actually hardly want to take a bottom turn at all. Rather, you want to stay high on the wave.
2. As you come to meet the foam section, the number one thing to remember is that before you go for the grab, you need to bank your board off the on-coming foam, making very sure that your intent is to bring the nose of your board to the bottom of the wave, the bottom of the foam, before you go for the grab and spin.
3. Interlude: Obviously this all happens very quickly, however, you just want to be attempting to get the nose of the board down towards the bottom of the on-coming white wash foam right before you simultaneously go for the grab.
4. Go for the grab later than you would think you should. Rotate your body first, and then once your body and head are twisting for the bottom, grab.
5. Once you grab, you don’t even really have to pull on your board at all if your angle is heading down the face of the wave, as mentioned above. The grab will help you stay centered over your board and will also quickly release the fins from the wash, which is crucial.
6. OK, this is the critical moment: As your fins release and whip around, continue to look in the direction you want to go! If you really want to complete the 360, then continue twisting your head in the direction that you want to go, stay centered over your front foot, hang on, and don’t give up on yourself even though going backwards is going to be a little scary.
7. If you can make it past 180 degrees and you stay committed to looking in the direction that you want to go, you will have a moment of release where your fins will catch and spin you quickly the rest of the way around to 360. So stay committed!
8. After you ride it out, paddle out calmly like it happens all the time, whether it’s your first one ever, or just your first one of the day.

Synopsis: Remember, start high, head towards the bottom of the on coming white wash, then grab, don’t give up when you get scared going backwards, continuing twisting your head in the direction you want to go, and Voila, you’re now a 360 spinner!

~~~

1.)  When did you start filming and how long did the project take?

I started filming in Spetember of 2010, all in all I shot for 3 months and we are currently editing the final cut.  I began thinking about this project last May so it’s been just over a year all in all.

2.)  Is this your first film?

Yes this is my first, aside from the odd little youtube vid!

3.)  What inspired you to make a film about the orphanage?

Well that’s part of the story.  I had been working in science for years but my heart was never really in it, it was more out of necessity than anything else. Finally, I reached the stage where I had enough, I wanted to do start doing things on my goal list, something more fulfilling.  I wanted to volunteer, to surf more and to make a film.  I decided this would be the perfect opportunity to tell my story and the kids’ stories too, the fact that Mision Mexico runs a surfing programme for the kids really helped to seal the deal!  I hope this film inspires people to volunteer, to understand how surfing changes lives and to follow their dreams.

4.)  How often have you gone to Mision Mexico, and will you be back?

Only once but I’ll definately be back, I still think about those little guys and miss them a lot!  I feel truly lucky that I got to experince life with them for a few months, it opened my eyes, and it’s a dream come true to be able to help them with this film.

5.)  When can we expect your film to be released, and where can we see it?

The film will be released in the fall in the London Surf Film Festival.  I will tour surf film festivals across Europe and the US in 2012, so there will be dates on the east and west coasts.  I’ll keep you posted via my blog togetherwesurf.blog.com/?

6.)  For the techies out there, what camera and editing setup did you use?

A Sony A1U..a hardy little buck it survived the kids, the beach, the weather and the traveling!  I have a fantastic editor who is helping make the dream come alive, he uses Final Cut software.

7.)  What were some challenges that you faced in making this film?

The were two huge challenges in making this film, one was keeping the smaller kids away from the camera, as soon as they saw it they wanted to grab it or eat it!  Also trying to balance the time between your demanding duties as a volunteer and filming was a fairly monumental undertaking.  Often I’d have one of the kids in one arm and the camera in the other and be serving food or doing homework at the same time!

Synopsis: Surf Instructor, Alex Joyce sets out in search of a more meaningful existence to work as a volunteer. Destiny brings him to the Mision Mexico Refuge, an orphanage dedicated to the welfare of Mexican street children, which employs a programme to rehabilitate the kids through surfing. Though the memories of troubled pasts endure, the kids find an outlet to be liberated through surfing; it breathes hope into their lives and futures. Surfing also strengthens the bond between Alex and the kids, transforming their lives.