I want to take you on a surfer’s extraordinary journey to Mexico.  But let’s start with something a little different.  It’s a bit of an eye-opener when you travel long-haul and see abject poverty for the first time.  The type of poverty far beyond the shabby downtown areas of the West; kids eating off the street, covered in dirt, lying in some doorway, wild eyes staring at you, starving, scared.  I’ve seen many street kids the world over, mostly passing through on surf trips, brief glimpses of sadness en-route to some comfortable beachfront hotel.  I’ve often wondered where they come from and how bad things must be to live a life on the streets.  I’ve felt the fleeting urge to help but until now, many miles and surf trips later, I’d done nothing.

I recalled the stories of a buddy of mine who has combined his passion for surfing with working for an aid organization.  His seemingly incongruous tales of turquoise barrels and volunteering was part of what inspired me to take up the onerous task of helping those less fortunate (and hopefully scoring a few waves to boot!).  So I booked a ticket to Mexico, to the Misión México orphanage of Tapachula, Chiapas to offer my time and my help.

Upon arrival, I was surprised to encounter a bunch of surfers from many different places and as many walks of life all here to help out and try to make a difference to the lives of some 50 plus orphans and street kids.  Misión México was founded by Pam and Alan Skuse, an Australian couple, who have been providing love, care, education and a home for orphaned and abandoned street kids for ten years.   It´s inspiring stuff and they do amazing work.  You have to go and see it for yourself to believe the patience, commitment and effort that goes into caring for these children and see the progress they’ve made.  Alan and Pam are well used to seeing surfer volunteers come through their doors particularly in the past two years since the surf movie Somewhere Near Tapachula.  “ It’s a great opportunity to come help the kids and make a difference,” says Pam, “but we like the volunteers to keep in mind that their duties come first, the surfing is a bonus!”

Getting His First Rides - All Smiles!

Perhaps most amazing though is the surfing programme they provide for the kids at the weekends.  Every Sunday morning, some sixty kids and volunteers pile into two vans and make the bumpy journey through town, jungle and farmland–stereo blaring–to the beach to catch some waves.  It’s pretty hilarious squeezing thirty kids into every available inch of each van complete with boards and all, but to say the kids love it is an understatement!

Sunday surf trips are definitely the highlight of the week and a welcome distraction from school-work, chores and worries.  The kids are absolutely stoked on surfing and the beach; they happily talk to you about different waves and maneuvers they pulled off all recounted with wide eyes, animated, re-living the rides they’ve had.  Some of the teenagers surf exceptionally well, gouging big turns, throwing buckets and making barrels.  The whole atmosphere is very relaxed and at the same time fantastic fun, it’s all good energy.  The younger ones are very brave and eager to learn, you see them charging the powerful beachbreak and shrugging off wipeouts that made me wince with a shake of the head and a smile.  Looking around me and seeing such a big bunch of happy surfers made me realize that surfing and volunteering go hand in hand.  It’s a pretty fantastic way to see some of the world, get a few waves and I guess, give a little back.   We as surfers are a pretty open-minded bunch by and large and we should all try and be conscious of these things particularly in this changing world of ours.

Yimi On An Overhead Bomb

Having experienced through surfing how we can help others less fortunate makes me understand what a wonderful gift this pastime of ours is.  Apart from the sheer physical pleasure of riding waves it runs much deeper.  Surfing allows us the chance to explore new lands and meet new people, to make a difference.  When we use surfing as a vehicle to reach out and help others, it becomes a way of transcending boundaries, a way of crossing cultural and economic divides.  It is such a positive force.  I definitely felt a sense of this after spending time with the kids at the beach.  Seeing them laughing their little heads off, elated from catching waves is wonderful!  Surfing and the ocean sets them free from their difficult pasts, if only momentarily and they are liberated from worries, anxieties, and bad behavior!  “Surfing is a vital factor in their development and one of the things that keeps them grounded”, Pam says.  I found myself nodding my head.  It’s true: surfing is an integral part of helping those kids experience a bit of straight-up-joy out of life.

For me, getting out there and catching a few waves together with the kids and the other volunteers was a really golden experience.  The happy, uplifting vibe in the water, hooting, laughing and calling each other into waves really makes for a refreshing change from the often egoist and macho line-ups that can typify the sport today.   There is a strong and positive energy surfing with those kids in Tapachula–or Taps as it’s affectionately called.

The surf in Taps, Chiapas is not on par with the more renowned neighboring spots of Oaxaca or Michocan, however, we scored some punchy, glassy lefts on more than a few occasions.  The rides for the most part were short but fast, a steep drop and a racy section that threw out and formed the odd barrel for those quick enough to pull in.  Tapachula is about 30 miles north of the Guatemala border, it’s a sparsely populated area so there is a wealth of empty coastline to explore.  Mostly powerful, hollow beachbreak but there are some points that work with a larger swell.  I saw many a smile to testify to the quality of the waves!

Chiapas has remained pretty much untouched and untainted by mass surf-tourism, and a major plus is the crowds–or rather, the complete lack of them.  Every day we surfed we were the only ones out.  This may change in the future as Moacir Zeldon, 20, (standing, far right, group shot), Pam and Alan’s eldest, plans to start a surf school, “Mission Surf”, in the area in early 2011.  I can only think of it as a positive step forward both for the orphanage itself and for the aspiring local groms who will enjoy this stunning coastline, gain an introduction to surfing and expand the surfing population in Chiapas.  The Mission Surf surf school is a vital step for the orphanage.  It will allow Alan and Pam to make steps towards becoming self-sufficient and provide employment opportunities for the kids in the future.  “We hope with setting up the surf school business that the kids will have a job and a future in Tapachula,” says Alan who himself is a surfer.  Personally, I think it’s an excellent idea and I wish them every possible success as it will cater for the futures of many of these kids for whom life without Alan or Pam, or indeed surfing would have been vastly different.

Somewhere Near Tapachula...

My experience was very memorable both for meeting those kids and sharing some of the epic waves and I’d definitely do it again. One of the volunteers who I worked, Hamish, a surfer from the Gold Coast, summed it up perfectly for me: “Surf trips can be quite hedonistic, if everyone could give some of their time just once to volunteer to help on a surf trip it would really be something”.  I couldn’t agree more.  With so many aid agencies, orphanages and refuges with coastal locations it´s no wonder some surfers are taking up the opportunity to volunteer.  I´m not saying you should don a veil and start handing out bread on the high street à la Mother Teresa but I mean who wouldn’t want to do something adventurous and meaningful and get some waves into the bargain?!!

So just before you jump online to book your next boat trip consider throwing a bit of volunteering into the mix.    I can guarantee you a challenging and most rewarding experience.  Moreover, when you find yourself smiling that secret little grin of contentment after a well-deserved surf,  trust me, you’ll know you”ve done something really special.

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For more information, please visit the Misión México website.

I was in the middle of my cross-country move to Southern California when I called up my friend Meghan just to check in and see how she was doing.  Somehow the conversation turned to surfing (as it usually does) and she told me that she and our two other girlfriends were heading to Saladita, Mexico in a few weeks, just after New Year’s.  She said they already had a place and a car rented, and if I wanted to come that all I had to do was buy a ticket to and they’d pick me up at the airport.

It was kind of a lot to chew for me.  I was already in the middle of a cross country move that was going to take quite a while (with a stopover in Michigan for Christmas with the family).  The travel dates would only let me settle into my apartment San Diego for about 4 days before I’d have to get on the plane.  I was also apprehensive about going to Mexico.  After some thinking, however, I decided to go.  I mean honestly, how many times do you get an offer like this?  “Hey girl we’ve got everything planned out and booked, all you gotta do is get here and we’ll even pick you up!”  Uh, like never.  So I decided to carpe diem and bought myself an early Christmas gift via CheapTickets.com.

Playa La Saladita

I had never been to Mexico – all I had heard were some scattered stories about great waves and scary Federales.  “The waves are awesome but don’t drive around after dark.”  I called and emailed some friends who had been there and they all gave me the thumbs up.  Where I was going – Playa Saladita – was quite far south in southern mainland Mexico.  I should be cautious, but since the surf and beach area of Playa Saladita is pretty much owned and run by a single extended family it is actually fairly safe.  To quote my friend Dave, “It’s not about them stealing your stuff.”

Since a lot of my friends had been there and thoroughly enjoyed themselves I became a lot more relaxed.  I have to admit, even though I did take a solo surf trip to Puerto Rico I’m not one of those Lonely Planet travel types.  I think I have to blame my mom for that one, who blatantly told me “Just don’t go to Mexico” when I decided to move to San Diego.  To her credit though, when I announced this trip she remained composed.

I flew Alaska airlines out of LAX, which had the cheapest fare for the dates I wanted.  On top of that, Alaska only charges $50 per way for a surfboard (this may change at any time, unfortunately, so please contact the airline to check on current baggage fees.)  The flight was easy and I arrived in Ixtapa/Zihuatenejo airport along with a bunch of other American tourists who were gearing up for resorts and cruises.

My Friend's Rental Car

Meanwhile my friends picked me up in the most beat up rental car you’ve ever seen in your life.  We speculated that the rental guy just gave us his personal car for the week.  We headed into the countryside, stopping briefly to pick up food for the week.  It was about an hour drive through the narrow roads, stopping twice for an armed military checkpoint.  We were four gringo girls with a surfboard strapped to the roof, and my friends were torturing me by singing 80’s songs at the top of their lungs.

We stayed at the House of Waves, a complex of about five or six apartment style accommodations.  The one defining feature of House of Waves is that it has the best, most plush lawn within 100 miles.  There are several other surfer oriented places to stay along the 500 yard stretch of beach, including several restaurants.  Our apartment featured two bedrooms, a living room, bathroom, a balcony with a perfect view of the break, and a kitchen where we were able to make a few meals.

Sunset At Playa Saladita

So how about the waves?  Well, unfortunately I was arriving at the tail end of a swell, and the surf heights were less than desirable.  However, the ruler perfect lines were still spectacular.  Saladita is a left point, well known for its perfection for a longboard.  You have to see it to really appreciate the precision with which the lip cascades down the line at an even pace.  I rode my quad fish (the Faktion quadzilla model shaped by local Long Island, NY shaper Mark Petrocelli) and had a great time even when the waves dropped below thigh high by the end of the trip.  This area is the frequent stomping ground of popular author and longboarder Alan Weisbecker (In Search Of Captain Zero).  Us being from the same town on Eastern Long Island and sharing mutual friends, we had a few meals and debates, and he showed us early clips from his surf movie.

One thing that was really remarkable about the area was the amount of pelicans inhabiting the area.  Maybe it’s their Winter nesting ground.  It’s pretty cool to see a line of 15 pelicans following each other, swooping low to catch the updraft created by a rolling line of swell.  Pelicans are surfers too – they just ride the air above the wave rather than the water itself.  It’s pretty fun to see.  We also saw a few dolphins, but not many.  We were feeling a little sharky since this was directly after the two deadly shark attacks that had happened in the region – an event that is pretty rare for the area.

Midway through the trip we decided to check out a spot further north up the coast.  It was about 40 minutes by car.  I’m really hesitant to reveal the name of the break here, and to preserve its integrity I’m not going to.  I’m sure with a little research you can find it yourself.  Basically another couple that was staying at the House of Waves gave us directions to the spot, written on a napkin.  The last group of turns took us to a long dirt road past a few extremely poor looking villages that continued on into the woods.  The last direction on the napkin was to “take the fork that looked more traveled”.  So here we were, four gringo girls in a beat up car with 4 surfboards strapped to the roof, driving deeper into the woods with no clear direction.  Every time the dirt road forked (and there were a lot of forks) we would sit and debate about which one looked more traveled.  I was more than a little nervous.

Somehow luck was with us and we made it through, arriving at the most beautiful setup you can imagine.  Picture lush palms, crystal clear water, and a rock reef point creating perfect left peelers.  There were a handful of surfers already out – a group from California we eventually ended up talking to and a couple from Oregon.

Hanging Out At The Secret Spot

Paddling out we were able to see stingrays and lots of colorful fish.  The water wasn’t Caribbean blue, but it was incredibly clear and full of life.  The waves weren’t huge, maybe waist – shoulder, and we got some amazing rides.  After surfing we sat down at a tiny little restaurant right there on the beach run by a grandma and her grandchildren. We sipped Coronas and watched our friends surf.  I had the absolute BEST shrimp tacos I’ve ever had in my life, and nothing I’ve had since has come close.  I would take a trip back here just for the food.  I couldn’t believe it – it was idyllic.

Another popular break in the area is Playa Sayulita, which is about 20 minutes south of Saladita.  It’s amazing how many international travelers were at the break.  We met people from Germany, Finland, and Canada, and everyone was incredibly friendly.

Our Other Friend's Rental Car, Overloaded With Boards

I’d go back to Saladita in an instant, in fact I believe one of my friends is there right now for a few weeks.  I might just hop on a plane and visit her!

Safety Tips:

• Travel in groups, especially women.  It’s fairly safe here but don’t be naïve.
• It’s not advisable to drive around after dark.
• Wear shoes on the beach – it can be littered with trash and fish bones.  The last thing you want is a cut on your foot.
• Fall flat in the surf – it’s a rock reef bottom and it’s sharp!
• Shuffle your feet in the sand!  Stingrays live here, and the intense pain suffered by our friends who was stung was scary enough.
• Lock valuables in your room.

Our Friend Soaking His Foot After A Stingray Got Him