The Surfing Handbook » travel

Peniche, Portugal – Surf Travel Report

Hayley Gordon — Thu, 16 Apr 2009 18:26:55 +0000

Belgas, Portugal (photo from PenicheSurfCamp.com)

Situated on the west coast of the Europe, Portugal is exposed to all sorts of swells from the Atlantic ocean. If you’re looking for something a little different for your next surf trip, and want a little European flair, then Portugal might be the place for you!

Meio Da Baia - Photo Courtesy Peniche Surf Camp

Portugal does not immediately come to mind when thinking of dream surf destinations. But the secret is getting out, and Portugal is slowly rising as a premiere surf destination.

There are points, sandbars, bays, and even a few big waves places such as the island of Maderia.

Places To Stay

Peniche has a number of different surf camps, catering to a wide range European travelers looking to take a surf holiday. My friend and I only met one other American during our stay, which was actually pretty fun.

Halloween Party @ Maximum Surf Camp

For this trip a friend an I stayed at the Peniche Surf Camp in Peniche. Peniche is a quiet fishing town situated on an island-like peninsula of land. This positions Peniche in such a way that you can always find a spot that’s offshore or out of the wind.

The camp offers a wide range of services, from personal and group lessons, to video critique sessions, and evening barbeques and parties. Since we went over Halloween, we got to experience a raving euro-type Halloween bash at the German surf camp. We met so many fun people from Portugal, Australia, Sweden, England, and many other places. Thanks to Facebook I’m still in touch with many of them.

Camp Instructors

The instructors at the Peniche camp are excellent and experienced surfers who will help you on your technique and style. The video sessions are excellent – seeing yourself on video can really help you improve. There was also a professional photographer on hand so everyone got to come away with some great action shots.

This camp was quite cheap even though the Euro was slamming the Dollar when we went. Some people might scoff at the idea of staying at a surf camp, but in my opinion surf travel is also about the people you meet, and staying at a camp you’ll make friends instantly.

The Waves

Perhaps most famous for “Supertubos” (Supertubes), there are a number of different breaks scattered around the town that offer a wide range of waves for beginners to more advanced surfers.

Consolação is a right hand rock reef. We did not get to surf here as conditions did not permit. However,

Supertubes is a fast, hollow beachbreak that can break your board and your neck. This wave is for experienced surfers only.

Molho Leste (Pronounced “Moy Lest”) is a fast right that runs along a jetty. It’s the next break over from Supertubes. It can break even when very small, offering a great place for beginners. But watch out…when this place breaks big it’s fast and powerful.

Myself at Meio Da Baia

On the other side of the peninsula we have Cantinho Da Baia and Meio Da Baia. Basically these are spots along a large bay on the northen side of Peniche. Depending on swell direction, the “Middle of the Bay” generally breaks bigger. “Corner of the Bay” can offer protection from the wind and smaller waves. When we were there we surfed Cantinho Da Baia a lot as it was more sheltered and the wave shape was better. Meio Da Baia has a few peaks and is just off a pile of offshore reefs/rocks. Meio Da Baia is where I had my worst wipeout ever. It packs a punch, but it can help you push your surfing limits.

Further north along the coast is Lagido which is a left breaking over a reef, and then Almagreira and Belgas. Conditions did not permit surf on the last two breaks, and I didn’t get to surf Lagido because of a tweaked neck I sustained in the aforementioned wipeout at Meio Da Baia.

Unfortunately we got a little skunked on our trip as Peniche was ransacked by heavy winds. The weather we encountered was very unusual for the area, but we still surfed every day. Towards the end of our 10 day stay winds calmed and the weather got quite good, so we did get a taste of the “usual” Peniche.

Equipment To Bring

Bring your standard shortboard (or whatever is standard for you), and then depending on the swell, take a step up or small wave board. Check the swell forecast before you leave to see what kind of boards you might need. I was happy to have brought my fish for the last few days when the waves got small. I ended up getting the longest rides while everyone else was struggling on their thrusters.

If you don’t have a board, or don’t feel like bringing it on the plane, rentals are easy to come across at the various camps and shops.

As far as wetsuits go, you can get away with a 3/2 for much of the year, but in the Winter I definitely suggest bringing a 4/3 and throw your booties in the bag too. In the summer you can get away with just a swimsuit, but if you’re like me and get cold, I’d bring a light wetsuit top or a springsuit.

Other Stuff To Do

Make sure you check out the local mom and pop cafes that are scattered around town. Our favorite thing to do in the morning was to go to the local cafe, have a Galão or two and a chocolate croissant, chat with the other surfers, and then hit the water.

The Castle at Obidos

We took a day off to explore the countryside and went to the walled city of Obidos with Pedro, the surf camp photog. He introduced us to “Ginjina de Obidos,” which is a cherry liqueur, found in many shops, stands, and bars around the city. The best way to have it is poured from a large bottle into edible chocolate shot glasses.

Another great place is the small town of Ferrel. The narrow streets, coffee shops and boutiques really make you feel like you’re in Europe.

To the south, the nearby town of Ericeira offers a multitude of world class surf breaks. This is next on our list when we return to Portugal.

Getting There

Access to Peniche is an easy 45 minute drive from the main airport in Lisbon.

More Info

Peniche Surf Camp

Wannasurf.com – Portugal

Rincon, Puerto Rico – Surf Travel Report

Hayley Gordon — Fri, 13 Mar 2009 21:42:53 +0000

Rincon, Puerto Rico is known as the Atlantic Ocean’s answer to Oahu’s North Shore. Located on the northwest corner of the island of Puerto Rico in the Caribbean, Rincon is situated to receive long period swells from Winter storms crossing the Atlantic. Combined with balmy temperatures, bathtub-warm clear blue water, and easy access through Aguadilla airport, Rincon is a surf mecca for East Coasters sick of the Winter blues.

Getting There

The easiest way to get to Rincon is to find a flight into Aguadilla airport. This will put you an easy 40 minute drive from Rincon.

What can I say…I’m a HUGE fan of Jet Blue. They fly right into Aguadilla airport, and only charge $50 for your boards each way (as of this writing). They’ve got personal TV’s with Direct TV in each seat, and you get unlimited snacks and drinks. (Do I sound like an advertisement yet?) Head over to JetBlue.com to search out the best fares. Otherwise, hit up CheapTickets.com for fares on other airlines. I don’t think JetBlue generally shows up on those discount airline websites, but I might be wrong.

Another thing is that Puerto Rico is so easy for US Citizens because they use the American dollar, and US citizens don’t need a passport.

Places To Stay

When I was planning my trip, I searched the internet for rentals. I wanted to go as cheap as I could, and I found an apartment on VRBO.com (Vacation Rentals By Owner). It ran me $500 for the week, had full kitchen ammenities, a great view, and a private driveway.

Check out VRBO and Craigslist for more private residences for rent.

Some of the nicer places I saw are the Lazy Parrot, Bunger’s Bon-Accord Inn, and Casa Islena. On my next trip I’d love to stay at the Lazy Parrot. For a comprehensive list of Rincon hotels and accomodations, check out Rincon.org.

Surf Spots!

The most important part of your trip! There are so many spots around Rincon and on the North coast of the island that you’d be hard pressed to surf them all even in a week.

Myself Surfing Maria's

My favorite spot, by far, was Maria’s beach. Located just off the 413, Maria’s is a friendly right point with a reef bottom. Access is easy…park anywhere you want pretty much – just be respectful of course. Parking in Rincon is very unregulated, which is nice for visitors. Watch out for the HUGE pothole in the middle of the Maria’s lot! I nearly killed my rental car.

Getting in and out at Maria’s is easy if you know what you’re doing. If you sit down and watch, you’ll notice a lot of the surfers (well, the ones who know the spot) going in and out at a little keyhole. This is a sandier spot that is easier on your feet and seems to have less urchins.

Indicators Lineup - Photo Hayley Gordon

Further up the coast from Maria’s is Indicators and Domes. Indicators is a right point that curls along the cliff, “indicating” a coming set for Maria’s. Domes is in it’s own little cove right underneath a power generator of some sort. You’ll see the green “Dome” right away.

They were doing significant construction to the lighthouse pavilion when I was there, and hopefully that construction is finished. It looks like it was going to turn out very nice.

Rincon’s renown big waves spot is called Tres Palmas located just off Steps Beach. It’s called steps because of a random piece of concrete stairs sitting in the middle of the beach.

Tres Palmas View From The Goat House

When I was in Rincon last March I was lucky enough to Witness the “Swell of the Decade” which stacked the sets at Tres Palmas up to 25-30 foot. It was an AMAZING experience. The view from the road of Tres Palmas is spectacular, and on a good swell cars will be lined up, people watching, locals setting up beer coolers and selling Coronas, and general mayhem. Be sure to get the Coconut gelato from the guy with the cart if he’s down there! Next to Tres Palmas is its little sister, Dogman’s.

The north coast of Rincon point includes Sandy Beach, Puntas, Pools, and Antonio’s. These are all mostly reef breaks with some sand bottoms. Sandy Beach sets up to be a left, and Antonio’s a right. They get blown out by the trade winds, however, so they’re fun but not premier spots.

When the conditions are right, Little Malibu can start breaking. It’s a right point breaking right into a bay. The paddleout is fairly easy, but it’s a tricky wave to surf. When I was there the huge swell was causing it to double up, heave, and back off, but that didn’t stop scores of hopefuls from attempting to catch a ride here.

Bridges in Aguadilla serving up some fun sized rights - Photo Hayley Gordon

When the swell starts absolutely macking you can head up to Aguadilla bay and catch some more fun sized waves at Bridges and Playgrounds. I surfed Bridges at around 4 foot and super glassy when the rest of Rincon was maxed out. Unfortunately, everyone else was also there, making it crowded. Hold your own, be respectful, and don’t run over the spongers!

Further North of Aguadilla bay are the breaks of Crash Boat, Gas Chambers, and Wishing Well. I did not venture up that way during my stay, but these are very popular breaks that can get very good.

On the north coast of Puerto Rico you’ve got Wilderness, Surfer’s Beach, Jobos, and Middles. I did not make it to this area during my travels, but will hopefully cover it during another trip. You can check out Surfline’s extensive coverage of this, and all other major Puerto Rico surf spots, for more information.

There are surf spots for people of all abilities and board disciplines.

Other Stuff To Do

If the surf goes flat there are numerous things to do during your stay. Check out the small shops scattered around town, hit up Calypso for a drink, go scuba diving off Desecheo Island, or take a moonlit horseback ride.