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Surfer Stories

Dallas Taylor

By Dallas Taylor

Hello all!  My name is Dallas Taylor and as a newcomer to the surfing world I must admit, I am absolutely hooked.  I was born and raised on a small peninsula in San Diego called Coronado and have been around the surf culture my whole life, yet I never decided to pick up a board and give it a shot. I am 19 years old and currently attend school in San Francisco at San Francisco State University where a friend of mine convinced me to save up for a surfboard rather than buying a long board skateboard.

I surfed for about a little over a month and a half in the treacherous waters of San Francisco where my progress was limited due to the harsh conditions. I attempted the paddle out to the lineup only four or five times and failed each time, so I spent all of my time in the white wash just getting familiar with my board. I am extremely glad that I stuck with learning the basics, such as paddling and the pop up, because now I am back home in San Diego and have been shredding the gnarly 2-3 footers with ease.

I have made it my goal to surf every day this summer and I’ve been doing so for the 2 weeks I’ve been back, and man can I notice myself getting better and better each time. One thing that I’ve also picked up from surfing is that surfing is so much more than just catching waves; I’d say just floating out in the ocean is in itself a very rewarding experience. Why just the other day while I was sitting on my board letting the waves roll right under me, I spotted a sweet wave to far out to catch, but through the beautiful sea-green color of the wave, I was blessed to have witnessed two dolphins tearing that wave up…it had to be one of the greatest experiences of my life, and it all came from surfing.

I have only just begun my surfing “career” if you will, but I am able to say that surfing has been the most intrinsically rewarding activity that I have ever picked up, and, like everyone, have been through about a million different phases. I am glad that surfing found its way into my life and every time I’m out there I remember one of Gerry Lopez’s rules of surfing; the best surfer in the water is the one who is having the most fun. Stay stoked!

Hayley Gordon

Hayley is an avid surfer and the founder of this website. She splits her time surfing between Encinitas, CA and Montauk, NY.
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