Sunday , 23 November 2014

50 Things That Make Surfing Cool

Here’s my list. I’m sure everyone will have their own opinions, so let’s hear yours.

  1. Single fins. A classic.
  2. Cerveza. So good after a long session.
  3. Boardshorts</strong

    >. I still remember getting my first pair of Quicksilver’s back in the 70’s. I wore the same pair all summer long.

    Photos by Ashley Beth

  4. Tubes. A surfer’s obsession. Drawn on many a notebook.
  5. Twin Fins. Retro will always be hot.
  6. Quads. Sometimes the more fins the better. Bonzers too.
  7. Surfer Chicks. Thank God it’s not just Dudes surfing.
  8. Calling everyone Dude or Bro’. Bad with names? No problem here.
  9. The North Shore. Either the Movie or the iconic strip of Hawaiian surf will do. C’mon, Pipeline alone is amazing. I’ve never been to the North Shore, but I love it just the same.
  10. Cheesy movies. The Surfer’s guilty pleasure. Can you quote one? I thought so.
  11. Wax. 2011 and we are still rubbing wax on our boards. Amazing.
  12. Bikinis. Probably Frances biggest contribution to surfing.
  13. Killer sunsets. I’ve never seen a bad one.
  14. Free wax scrapers. Thanks to whoever decided that these should be attached to the pocket rather than sold separately?
  15. Surf stickers. Put one on your back window and your car is completely changed.
  16. Views of the coastline. One of the many things to enjoy during lulls.
  17. Sea Lions. It’s like someone’s dog got loose in the middle of the lineup.
  18. Dolphins. The closer they get, the cooler they are.
  19. Hoodies. It’s all about comfort.
  20. Old dudes. Gives me hope for the future. Enough said.
  21. Salt water. Some call it polluted; I say it’s healing.
  22. Peeing in your wetsuit. You’ve done it.
  23. VW vans. They ooze surf culture.
  24. Warm water. Not enough of this in California lately.
  25. Secret spots. Adds that air of intrigue, even if they’re not that much of a secret.
  26. Morning glass. The most peaceful thing you will ever experience.
  27. Surf racks. Every car looks better with surf racks.
  28. Old school fishes. We don’t even care if they work well in the water.
  29. Coconut scented anything. Open a new bar of wax and breathe deeply.
  30. Hair. From Spicoli to Slater, surfers have set the trends.
  31. Tan skin. Can’t get in shape? At least get a nice tan.
  32. Shortboards. There’s a reason that these are so popular.
  33. Reefs. Creating great surf (and great diving)
  34. Longboards. The original surfboard. They always look extremely cool in the water or strapped to the top of a car.
  35. Giving somebody a wave. It’s the cool thing to do.
  36. Somebody giving you a wave. Even better.
  37. Your best wave of the day. Even on your worst day, you will still have a best wave.
  38. Telling another surfer about your best wave (And you better listen to them talk about their best wave as well).
  39. Sets. Pretty damn exciting when you see them coming.
  40. Rights. Take it if it comes.
  41. Lefts. Ditto.
  42. Making the drop. Sometimes you just have to smile.
  43. Wipeouts. It’s the only sport where we can really appreciate crashing.
  44. Uncrowded lineups. A nice surprise.
  45. Shapers. They take foam, resin and fiberglass and make the most beautiful pieces of rideable art. Try making your own board and the respect goes up even more.
  46. Gerry Lopez. Iconic cool.
  47. T-shirts. The unofficial uniform of surfers everywhere
  48. Popping up for the first time. We all remember our first time. Total awesomeness
  49. Endless Summer. A must have.
  50. The Eddie. What surfing is really all about.

Format

Here’s my list. I’m sure everyone will have their own opinions, so let’s hear yours.
Single fins. A classic.
Cerveza. So good after a long session.
Boardshorts. I still remember getting my first pair of Quicksilver’s back in the 70’s. I wore the same pair all summer long.

Photos by Ashley BethTubes. A surfer’s obsession. Drawn on many a notebook.
Twin Fins. Retro will always be hot.
Quads. Sometimes the more fins the better. Bonzers too.
Surfer Chicks. Thank God it’s not just Dudes surfing.
Calling everyone Dude or Bro’. Bad with names? No problem here.
The North Shore. Either the Movie or the iconic strip of Hawaiian surf will do. C’mon, Pipeline alone is amazing. I’ve never been to the North Shore, but I love it just the same.
Cheesy movies. The Surfer’s guilty pleasure. Can you quote one? I thought so.
Wax. 2011 and we are still rubbing wax on our boards. Amazing.
Bikinis. Probably Frances biggest contribution to surfing.
Killer sunsets. I’ve never seen a bad one.
Free wax scrapers. Thanks to whoever decided that these should be attached to the pocket rather than sold separately?
Surf stickers. Put one on your back window and your car is completely changed.
Views of the coastline. One of the many things to enjoy during lulls.
Sea Lions. It’s like someone’s dog got loose in the middle of the lineup.
Dolphins. The closer they get, the cooler they are.
Hoodies. It’s all about comfort.
Old dudes. Gives me hope for the future. Enough said.
Salt water. Some call it polluted; I say it’s healing.
Peeing in your wetsuit. You’ve done it.
VW vans. They ooze surf culture.
Warm water. Not enough of this in California lately.
Secret spots. Adds that air of intrigue, even if they’re not that much of a secret.
Morning glass. The most peaceful thing you will ever experience.
Surf racks. Every car looks better with surf racks.
Old school fishes. We don’t even care if they work well in the water.
Coconut scented anything. Open a new bar of wax and breathe deeply.
Hair. From Spicoli to Slater, surfers have set the trends.
Tan skin. Can’t get in shape? At least get a nice tan.
Shortboards. There’s a reason that these are so popular.
Reefs. Creating great surf (and great diving)
Longboards. The original surfboard. They always look extremely cool in the water or strapped to the top of a car.
Giving somebody a wave. It’s the cool thing to do.
Somebody giving you a wave. Even better.
Your best wave of the day. Even on your worst day, you will still have a best wave.
Telling another surfer about your best wave (And you better listen to them talk about their best wave as well).
Sets. Pretty damn exciting when you see them coming.
Rights. Take it if it comes.
Lefts. Ditto.
Making the drop. Sometimes you just have to smile.
Wipeouts. It’s the only sport where we can really appreciate crashing.
Uncrowded lineups. A nice surprise.
Shapers. They take foam, resin and fiberglass and make the most beautiful pieces of rideable art. Try making your own board and the respect goes up even more.
Gerry Lopez. Iconic cool.
T-shirts. The unofficial uniform of surfers everywhere
Popping up for the first time. We all remember our first time. Total awesomeness
Endless Summer. A must have.
The Eddie. What surfing is really all about.
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About Dave Christensen

Dave Christensen is a surfer/musician/artist based out of Laguna Beach, California.

4 comments

  1. Well Said DC

    Taco’s- the best meal after a long sesh
    Shoulders- Even the rippers love a great shoulder

    The great thing about surfing is its just not a surfboard, I surfed today, then i SUP surfed, Then i Boggie boarded for a little, went out surfed some more until the tide was too high and the Skim Boarders came out, then i went and body surfed a couple of waves. Good Times always

  2. Love this post! (This is SO me: “Calling everyone Dude or Bro’. Bad with names? No problem here.” LOL!)

  3. Got another one:

    The feeling of unzipping your wetsuit on a hot day, after going for a surf.

  4. Great post!

    Here’s some more:

    Sore muscles the next day, telling you that you put your body to good use!

    Night surfing. Enough said.

    The fact that no matter how long you surf, there’s always something new to learn and improve on.

    Oh yea – and naturally sun-bleached hair!