Surfing is more than just a sport; it’s a lifestyle that captures the hearts and minds of countless people around the world. For surfers and enthusiasts alike, reading about surfing can be an informative and enjoyable pastime. There are many books on this topic, ranging from instructional guides for beginners to inspiring biographies and mesmerizing tales of big wave phenomenons.
Surfing books not only provide insights into the technical aspects of this fascinating sport but also delve into the history, culture, and spirit behind it. Whether you’re a seasoned surfer seeking to level up your skills or someone simply drawn to the allure of the ocean, there’s a book out there for you.
There are quite a few books that take on the topic of surfing, from fiction to nonfiction to how-to’s and other informational tomes. Because I’ve gotten back into reading in the last year of the pandemic, I thought I’d take it upon myself to create a comprehensive list of some of the best surfing books available. I don’t know if this list will ever be exhaustive; there are simply too many books out there. However, I’m hoping to include some of the most interesting novels, helpful and intriguing nonfiction, and a section for everything in between. If you think we’ve missed a good one, please write your suggestions in the comments below.
Also, I will probably only include books that have been published within the last quarter century or so. So unfortunately, if something is on the older side we may leave it out–for now. If you have a suggestion for a book in this category, please let me know. Check the sidebar to the right for categories and listings!
Memoirs, Autobiographies, and True Stories
Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
A Pulitzer Prize winning memoir and captivating read that transports you into the thrilling world of surfing–perfect for enthusiasts and dreamers alike.
Pros
- Engaging storytelling
- Vivid descriptions of surf locations
- Offers insights into the surfing lifestyle
Cons
- Some sections may feel slow-paced
- Might not be suitable for non-surfers
- Occasional focus on personal drama
Reading “Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life” by William Finnegan, I felt like I was experiencing the early world of surfing firsthand. The captivating storytelling took me on a journey through exotic surf locations, and it was evident that the author has a wealth of real-world surfing experience.
Finnegan’s skilled writing enabled me to visualize the waves, taste the salt, and feel the adrenaline of catching that perfect wave. His vivid descriptions not only showcased beautiful landscapes but also gave me a peak into the highs and lows of the surfing lifestyle of the 60s and 70s.
However, I occasionally found myself wishing for a faster pace, as some sections detailed personal dramas and reflections that weren’t directly related to surfing. Despite this, the vast majority of the content left me craving more. I soaked up the honest insights and advice for embracing a passion for the surf.
While “Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life” may not be the ideal book for everyone, I firmly believe that it is a must-read for surf enthusiasts or anyone looking to dive into the rich, thrilling world of surf culture. This Pulitzer Prize-winning book has broadened my understanding of surfing and ignited a desire for my own surf adventures.
Surf Is Where You Find It
“When in doubt, paddle out.” An inspirational book that I’d recommend to both avid surfers and those who simply love the ocean and its wisdom.
Pros
- Engaging writing style
- Insightful anecdotes
- Beautiful photographs
Cons
- Honestly, not many
I read “Surf is Where You Find It” several years ago when it first came out (and subsequently got it signed by the legend himself at a Patagonia event). The author, Gerry Lopez, shares his life’s adventures in surfing and beyond, giving readers a thoughtful look at the wisdom of the waves. His stories are engaging and inspiring, providing valuable lessons for surfers as well as those who want to better understand the surfer’s way of life.
The book is filled with stunning photographs that capture the beauty and power of the waves, which certainly enhanced the reading experience. The anecdotes shared by Lopez often felt like a chat with an old friend, inviting readers into his world full of ups and downs in and out of the water.
The book is a treasure trove of inspiration, filled with wisdom and insights that can be applied to various aspects of life – not just surfing. I can confidently say that reading “Surf Is Where You Find It” made me feel more connected to the waves, and I hope it does the same for you.
Pipe Dreams: A Surfer’s Journey
Pipe Dreams is a must-read for anyone interested in the world of professional surfing, offering an insightful look into Kelly Slater’s life and passion for the sport.
Pros
- Gripping storytelling
- Provides an in-depth look at surfing culture
- Relatable and inspiring
Cons
- Mostly focuses on the author’s personal journey
- Published in 2004, Kelly really jumped the gun here
- Not a technical guide to surfing
Although Kelly probably published his autobiography WAY too early (he is going to need to come out with a sequel to this book), I enjoyed learning about the highs and lows of the author’s journey and how his grit and determination helped him rise to the top of the surfing world.
The strength of the book lies in its portrayal of surfing culture. It’s filled with engaging anecdotes that offer a real sense of what it was and is like to live for the waves and make a living from the sport. From learning about different surf breaks to the intricacies of the competition circuit, I found the revelations about the surfing world utterly fascinating.
On top of this, Kelly Slater’s story is both relatable and inspiring, showing that even the greatest athletes have their struggles and setbacks. Though the book is primarily focused on his personal journey, I think we can all learn something from his resilience and work ethic.
The book was published in 2004, so some of the content may be outdated. But, for the most part, these are minor issues that don’t detract from the book’s overall appeal.
To sum up, Pipe Dreams: A Surfer’s Journey is an enthralling and insightful look into the life of a professional surfer. If you’re passionate about surfing or just intrigued by this thrilling sport, I highly recommend giving this book a read. Just don’t expect a step-by-step guide on how to surf – this is a memoir, and it delivers a compelling narrative that will undoubtedly leave a lasting impression.
In Search of Captain Zero: A Surfer’s Road Trip
I recommend this book to surf enthusiasts and adventure-seekers who crave an engaging, well-written story combined with a thrilling journey.
Pros
- Engaging storytelling
- Vivid descriptions of surfing and travel experiences
- At times, humorously relatable
Cons
- Occasional overuse of surf terminology
- Some parts may drag
- Focus on drug running might not suit everyone’s taste
In “In Search of Captain Zero: A Surfer’s Road Trip Beyond the End of the Road,” author Allan Weisbecker delivers a captivating tale of chasing dreams and the pursuit of the ultimate surf. Weisbecker’s powerful storytelling abilities are showcased through his rich and immersive writing style.
Besides providing thrilling surf stories, the book delves into the travel aspect, painting detailed and vibrant images of the locations visited. Although some readers might find the occasional overuse of surf jargon slightly off-putting, it adds authenticity to the narrative for those familiar with the sport. However, I must warn potential readers that certain parts of the book might seem a bit too long, but don’t let that deter you from this fascinating read.
One thing that stood out to me was the exploration of camaraderie and the bonds formed during this epic journey. The hilariously entertaining anecdotes about pot smuggling add a unique twist to the story. However, some readers might not appreciate this element, so keep that in mind when considering the purchase of this book.
Overall, “In Search of Captain Zero: A Surfer’s Road Trip Beyond the End of the Road” is an engaging and thrilling read for those interested in surfing, adventure, and captivating storytelling. In my opinion, it is a must-read for all surf enthusiasts and travelers who want to get a taste of a one-of-a-kind journey packed with unforgettable experiences.
Making Mavericks: The Memoir of a Surfing Legend
A captivating read for surf enthusiasts, offering profound insights into the life of legendary surfer and mentor Frosty Hesson.
Pros
- Inspiring life story
- Engaging storytelling
- Dive into the world of big-wave surfing
Cons
- Some parts may seem slightly preachy
- Not as exciting as book-to-film adaptation
- Mainly focuses on Frosty’s perspective
This memoir provides a fascinating view into the life of this inspiring surf mentor, who turned a challenging start into an extraordinary life built around his love for the ocean and surfing.
Through his captivating storytelling, Frosty shares anecdotes from his own life, as well as from the life of his protégé, Jay Moriarity. Their mentor-mentee relationship is a pivotal aspect of the book, showcasing the power of guidance, support, and pursuing one’s passion despite the odds. As I turned the pages, I could almost feel the force of the waves that Frosty and Jay tamed together.
Although the narrative is genuinely engaging, there were moments where I felt the book veered slightly towards a preachy tone, especially when discussing Frosty’s philosophies on life. Nevertheless, the overall message of resilience and determination made it a worthwhile read for me.
“Making Mavericks: The Memoir of a Surfing Legend” is a thought-provoking and engaging book that offers unique insights into the life of a renowned surfer and mentor. While it may not be as exciting or encompassing as its movie adaptation, “Chasing Mavericks,” this book is ideal for those interested in the world of big-wave surfing and the personal journey of Frosty Hesson.
Hound of the Sea: Wild Man. Wild Waves. Wild Wisdom.
A captivating and inspiring memoir that any surfing enthusiast or adventurer should not miss. Also great for fans of the 100 Foot Wave docu-series on HBO/Max.
Pros
- Gripping real-life experiences
- Well-written and engaging
- Inspiring journey of overcoming challenges
Cons
- Slightly complex storytelling structure
- Less relatable for non-surfers
When I picked up Hound of the Sea, I was instantly drawn into Garrett McNamara’s extraordinary life, from his childhood to conquering the 100 ft wave. The excitement and thrill of his passion for surfing were palpable in every page. I could feel the exhilaration as he narrated his quest for those ‘Big Mama’ waves, and it left me feeling inspired by his determination.
As I continued reading, I found Hound of the Sea to be much more than just a surfing memoir. McNamara’s life story exemplifies resilience, perseverance, and a genuinely adventurous spirit. It was quite refreshing to read a memoir that didn’t shy away from personal vulnerability, portraying McNamara’s struggles alongside his triumphs to paint a full picture of his life.
The storytelling can be a bit complex, with sections merging and overlapping at times, which may be confusing for some readers. In addition, those less familiar with the world of surfing may find it harder to connect with McNamara’s adventures.
All in all, Hound of the Sea: Wild Man. Wild Waves. Wild Wisdom. left me with a newfound respect for the life of a big wave surfer and a deeper connection to the ocean’s untamed beauty. I truly believe that any surfing enthusiast, or anyone with an itch for adventure, would find it an enjoyable and inspiring read.
Surfing In a Rich Life: A memoir
Discover the joy and challenges of surfing intertwined with life lessons in this heartfelt memoir by Richard Williams.
Pros
- Engaging personal stories
- Valuable life lessons
- Descriptive surfing experiences
Cons
- Limited to the author’s perspective
- Specific to military experiences
I picked up “Surfing In a Rich Life” and was immediately drawn into the author’s journey of learning to surf and navigating life through military service. The personal stories shared within the pages resonated with me, as I too have found solace and joy in catching waves and embracing the surfing lifestyle.
As I read through the chapters, I appreciated the valuable life lessons intertwined with the author’s love for surfing. It’s more than just a sports book; this memoir delves into the challenges and triumphs the author faced during his military service. The way he relates surfing to personal growth and development in life is truly inspiring.
The book’s unique perspective comes from the author’s military background, which may not appeal to everyone. Nonetheless, I believe the combination of surfing stories and the personal experiences shared makes this book stand out from other surfing books on the market.
Overall, I highly recommend Surfing In a Rich Life for those who enjoy surfing and are open to learning about life through the lens of the sport. Whether you’re an experienced surfer or simply intrigued by the lifestyle, this book offers a unique and engaging read that will stay with you beyond the pages.
Let My People Go Surfing: The Education of a Reluctant Businessman
This compelling read highlights an unconventional business journey, perfect for those with a love for surfing and an interest in sustainable practices.
Pros
- Inspirational story
- Focus on sustainability
- Passionate writing
Cons
- Can be repetitive
- Prolonged read
- Limited to a certain audience
As a first-hand witness, I can say that “Let My People Go Surfing” captures the true story of Yvon Chouinard’s journey as a reluctant businessman alongside the development of his brand, Patagonia. This well-written book delves into the unique management style and sustainable business practices that have helped shape the brand.
While exploring the underlying principles that have led to Patagonia’s success, I appreciated the strong emphasis on embracing environmentalism and ethical values. The book is filled with valuable insights which can benefit both entrepreneurs and eco-activists alike.
However, there were times when the story seemed to drag on, and certain ideas felt repetitive. It’s also crucial to understand that this book speaks mostly to surfers or individuals with an interest in environmentally-conscious businesses. Nonetheless, “Let My People Go Surfing” delivers inspiration and advocates for change in the corporate world, making it a worthwhile read for those in pursuit of a paradigm shift within traditional business structures.
BAD KARMA: The True Story of a Mexico Trip from Hell
A thrilling and captivating read for surf enthusiasts and travel adventure fans alike.
Pros
- Engaging storytelling
- Captures the essence of a true adventure
- Entertaining descriptions of mishaps and escapades
Cons
- Some stories might seem too far-fetched
- Could benefit from additional editing
- Not focused solely on surfing
As a fan of both surfing and travel adventures, I found myself diving right into BAD KARMA. The author takes us on a wild ride through Mexico, filled with unexpected twists and turns. As the pages went by, I couldn’t help but get lost in the author’s detailed and emotive storytelling.
Though some of the situations recounted in the book might stretch your imagination, it’s important to remember that this is a true story, making it all the more impressive. The photographs found throughout the book serve as evidence, adding authenticity to the captivating narrative. I found myself intrigued not only by the misadventures of the travelers but also by the vivid depiction of the Mexican landscape and culture.
On the other hand, the book is not entirely focused on surfing, which might deter some readers specifically looking for surf-oriented tales. However, the broader context of the story gives it a more universal appeal to those interested in adventure and exploration.
In conclusion, BAD KARMA is a highly engaging and captivating read, and I recommend it to anyone who loves surfing, travel adventures, or just a good, thrilling story. While it may have minor flaws in terms of editing and may not be entirely focused on surfing, it’s certainly a book that will make you feel like you’ve just embarked on a wild adventure in Mexico.
Caught Inside: A Surfer’s Year on the California Coast
A must-read for surf enthusiasts and California coast lovers alike, capturing the essence of a year spent riding the waves.
Pros
- Engaging and descriptive storytelling
- Insight into surf culture and California’s coastal life
- Appeals to surfers and non-surfers alike
Cons
- Slow to start for some readers
- May seem repetitive for those not passionate about surfing
- Writing style may not be for everyone
This book delves deep into the captivating world of surf culture, immersing the reader into the life of a dedicated surfer, showcasing the patience and dedication required for the sport. The author’s firsthand experiences brought an authentic touch to the narrative, giving a real-world insight that only an insider could provide.
Although initially slow-paced, the author’s storytelling prowess eventually provided an immersive and enjoyable read. The anecdotes and personal experiences sprinkled throughout the pages provided an authentic glimpse into the surfer’s lifestyle, making it relatable even to someone who’s never touched a surfboard.
However, I must note that while the book undoubtedly resonated with me as a surf enthusiast, it may not have the same impact on readers who aren’t as passionate about the sport. Some could find the storytelling repetitive, while others might not appreciate the writing style. Nonetheless, as a surfer and a California coast admirer, Caught Inside struck a chord with me as it encapsulated the unique spirit that defines not just the sport but also the coastal experience.
All in all, if you’re a surf enthusiast or simply wish to venture into the beautiful world of California’s coast, Caught Inside: A Surfer’s Year on the California Coast will surely offer you a glimpse into this captivating world as it has done for me.
In Waves
Do not miss this gem. “In Waves” is a beautifully illustrated and deeply personal surfing journey that will resonate with readers.
Pros
- Graphic novel form effectively conveys complex emotions
- Seamlessly intertwines personal story with surfing history
- Stunning minimalist illustrations
Cons
- May not appeal to those seeking a traditional surfing book
- Simplistic art style may not be to everyone’s taste
- Could be emotionally heavy for some readers
I recently had the pleasure of reading “In Waves” by AJ Dungo, and it was truly a unique experience. The graphic novel format lends itself well to exploring the deep emotions and intertwining narratives of the author’s personal life and the history of surfing itself. The minimalist style of the illustrations is striking, yet enhances the storytelling in a way that amplifies the raw emotion and passion for the subject.
In reading “In Waves,” I was struck by just how immersive and impactful the storytelling was. AJ Dungo expertly balances the representation of the intensely personal journey of dealing with the death of a loved one alongside the rich history of surfing, making it engaging and introspective. It’s not your typical surfing book, but one that uses refreshing storytelling techniques to delve deeper into the human experience.
If you’re looking for a fresh, new take on surfing literature that goes beyond the retelling of sensational waves and surfing icons, In Waves is the book for you. Not only will it captivate those in the surf community, but it will also appeal to anyone seeking a thought-provoking and honest exploration of love, loss, and the human spirit. This beautifully crafted graphic novel by AJ Dungo is truly a masterpiece worth your time and consideration.
Kook: What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wave
An insightful surf memoir that’s worth a read if you’re interested in personal growth and the many aspects of surf culture.
Pros
- Engaging storytelling style
- Covers personal growth and the surfing journey
- Highlights environmental and social aspects of surfing
Cons
- Lack of clarity on the book’s primary theme
- Some readers may find occasional offensive language
- Limited appeal for non-surfers or casual surf enthusiasts
During my recent read of “Kook,” I found Peter Heller’s memoir to be an engaging and insightful look into his journey learning to surf. He paints a vivid and relatable picture of the triumphs, struggles, and frustrations that come with pursuing a passion for wave riding.
Throughout the book, Heller explores not just the act of surfing, but also its impact on his personal life and relationships – particularly with his wife Kim. I appreciated the honest portrayal of their evolving dynamic and found it to be a unique aspect of this memoir.
One of my favorite parts of “Kook” was Heller’s emphasis on the environmental and community aspects of surfing. As a surfer myself, it was refreshing to see an author who cares about and respects these often overlooked aspects of the sport.
However, the book does have a few drawbacks. Sometimes it was hard to pinpoint the overall theme, as Heller frequently juggles between love and surfing, leaving readers wondering about the book’s primary focus. Additionally, some readers may be put off by occasional offensive language and cultural stereotypes with potential for misinterpretation. Lastly, for non-surfers or casual surf enthusiasts, “Kook” might not be as appealing as it is for those already immersed in the surfing world.
Despite these concerns, I found “Kook” to be an enjoyable and educational read, providing a unique perspective on the personal growth and self-discovery that can stem from a passion for surfing. If you’re intrigued by the sport and its many facets, or simply enjoy a memoir with a mix of adventure, personal reflection, and a touch of romance, give “Kook” a go.
All for a Few Perfect Waves: The Audacious Life and Legend of Rebel Surfer Miki Dora
A refreshing dive into the life of an iconic and unconventional surfer, Miki Dora.
Pros
- Captivating storytelling
- In-depth look into Miki Dora’s life
- Engaging interviews with people who knew Dora
Cons
- Lengthy read
- Writing style can be verbose
Written by David Rensin, this book provides an enthralling and audacious account of the rebel surfer’s life. What amazed me the most was the author’s storytelling skills, making each part of Dora’s journey come alive on the pages.
Rensin has done a commendable job in providing an in-depth look into Miki Dora’s life. From his surfing accomplishments to his personal struggles, it felt like I truly got to know the enigmatic surfer on a deeper level. Additionally, the inclusion of multiple interviews with those who knew Dora added depth and credibility to the story.
However, be prepared for a lengthy read as the book is over 500 pages long. Although I found the content engaging, some readers might feel it’s a bit dragged out. Moreover, the writing style may come across as verbose at times, which might be challenging for some to digest.
While “All for a Few Perfect Waves” is captivating for surfing fans like myself, it might not appeal to everyone, particularly those who aren’t familiar with the surfing world. Nevertheless, I genuinely enjoyed the book and found it to be a satisfying exploration of Miki Dora’s rebellious and nuanced life.
Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell: A True Story of Violence, Corruption, and the Soul of Surfing
This book is a captivating rollercoaster of a read for those who love the darker side of surfing culture.
Pros
- Engaging writing style
- Dives deep into the untold stories of surfing
- Evoke strong emotions in the reader
Cons
- The author’s voice might not be everyone’s cup of tea
- Some timelines might have been compressed
- Some may find the violence and corruption overwhelming
I enjoyed this book, even though Chas Smith can be a bit of a polarizing figure. The book offers an intense insight into the world of surfing that few people know about – leaving the reader anxious for more. It narrates the untold stories of violence, corruption, and the soul of surfing that often remain hidden beneath the sun, sand, and waves.
The author, Chas Smith, has a unique writing style that captures the reader’s attention from the beginning. His storytelling abilities are undeniable, which makes the book an exciting page-turner. However, some readers may find the author’s tone snarky or too full of bravado; but for others, this is what sets this book apart from other surfing books, making it an engaging read.
While it’s true that some of the events and timelines may have been adjusted for storytelling purposes, the essence of the book remains: an adrenaline-pumping, often terrifying, journey through the darker aspects of surfing culture. The book delves into the lives of those who live and breathe the sport, both on and off the waves.
It’s important to note that while this book is about surfing, it is certainly not for the faint of heart. The violent and corrupt side of the surfing world may be too much for some, but if you’re willing to dive in, “Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell” is sure to make significant waves in your understanding of the world of surfing.
Rockaway: Surfing Headlong into a New Life
This book is a must-read for anyone seeking inspiration to dive into their own personal journey of self-discovery and growth.
Pros
- Engaging storytelling
- Unique approach to life transformation
- Provides insight into surfing as therapy
Cons
- Not much technical surfing information
- May not appeal to readers uninterested in memoirs
- Focuses more on personal growth than sport
As a lover of both adventure and personal development, I was captivated by Diane Cardwell’s story in Rockaway: Surfing Headlong into a New Life. Her honesty and vulnerability as she faces the challenges of her new chosen path made me feel like I was right there beside her. Through each wave and emotional setback, Cardwell’s tale of picking up surfing in the aftermath of painful life events is not only inspiring but also shows the transformative power of pursuing new passions.
What resonated with me the most about this memoir is that it isn’t just about surfing. It delves deep into the author’s journey of self-discovery and healing, using surfing as the catalyst to change her life. Her relatable struggles and determination to learn a sport many would consider daunting at her stage in life moved me, and it certainly encourages readers to break their own barriers when chasing after their passions.
This book may not be an ideal choice for those looking for detailed technical surfing information or only sports-oriented content. Nevertheless, readers interested in memoirs or tales of personal growth will find Rockaway: Surfing Headlong into a New Life incredibly valuable. I wholeheartedly recommend this book to anyone seeking a beautifully-written and engaging story of personal transformation through an unexpected avenue, like the exhilarating world of surfing.
Surviving the Shark: How a Brutal Great White Attack Turned a Surfer into a Dedicated Defender of Sharks
This book is a must-read for surfers and ocean lovers, offering a blend of a true story and valuable shark insights.
Pros
- Inspirational survivor story
- In-depth shark information
- Engaging writing style
Cons
- Too many repeated passages
- Some parts focus more on facts than storytelling
From my recent experience with “Surviving the Shark,” I was immediately drawn in by the author’s harrowing tale of surviving a great white attack. As a surfer myself, the lessons learned in dealing with such an incident were essential.
Not only does this book provide a captivating story, but it delves deeply into the world of sharks, allowing me to better appreciate and respect these magnificent creatures. The facts and information about shark behavior presented were both insightful and fascinating, further expanding my understanding of the ocean’s apex predators.
However, there were some parts of the book where I found the repetition of certain passages frustrating. I recognize that the author’s intent was to emphasize specific points, but it detracted slightly from the overall reading experience. Additionally, I felt that some sections focused more on reiterating facts rather than sharing the personal journey itself.
In conclusion, “Surviving the Shark” is a remarkable and educational book that sheds light on the life and habits of great white sharks. For those who share the waves with these incredible creatures, gaining such knowledge is invaluable. Despite its minor shortcomings, I highly recommend this book for anyone who is passionate about surfing and ocean life.
Surf Lessons: Stories Of An Eastern Surfer
“Surf Lessons” is a great read for surf enthusiasts looking for an authentic and nostalgic East Coast surf journey.
Pros
- Relatable stories for East Coast surfers
- Captivating writing style
- Inspiring and enjoyable for all ages
Cons
- Short and quick read
This book is a collection of short stories that capture the essence and charm of East Coast surfing life. I found the tales deeply relatable and felt transported to my own surf sessions on the East Coast (I originally began surfing on Long Island in the early 2000s) as I read.
The author, Earl Shores, has a way with words, making for a captivating read. This book is not only about surfing, but it’s also about personal growth, and Earl’s writing perfectly mirrors that sentiment.
Furthermore, what captured my heart in “Surf Lessons” was that it appeals to surfers across age groups. Young and old can find joy in these inspiring stories of an East Coast surfer’s journey.
In conclusion, I found “Surf Lessons: Stories Of An Eastern Surfer” to be an excellent addition to my surfing literature collection. Its relatable tales, captivating writing style, and charm make it well worth the read for those like me who love the surf and wish to experience the East Coast surfing life through the eyes of an expert. However, if you’re seeking technical tips or a more general surf book, this might not be your best option.
Psychology and Surfing
Mindfulness and Surfing: Reflections for Saltwater Souls
I truly believe that wave riders looking for a different perspective on surfing and mindfulness will enjoy this book.
Pros
- Connects mindfulness and surfing
- Adds depth to your surfing experience
- Beautiful and profound writing
Cons
- Might seem simplistic for some readers
- Less focused on specific techniques
- Takes time to delve into the content
While reading “Mindfulness and Surfing: Reflections for Saltwater Souls,” I felt a strong connection between the practice of mindfulness and my experience while riding waves. This book offers insights and reflections that can help any surfer to deepen their relationship with the sport and find a more centered state of mind while out in the ocean.
The author’s style of writing is beautiful and profound. Even though it may seem simple at first glance, it carries a lot of depth and wisdom that can inspire readers to think more deeply about their surfing experiences. By exploring the parallels between surf and mindfulness, this book has the potential to enhance your time in the water, making each session more enjoyable and enriching.
However, “Mindfulness and Surfing” might not be for everyone. If you’re looking for specific techniques on how to incorporate mindfulness into your surfing, this book may not provide that exact guidance. Additionally, it could take some time to dive into the content and truly understand the connection between mindfulness and surfing.
In conclusion, “Mindfulness and Surfing: Reflections for Saltwater Souls” provides a unique perspective on surfing and can add depth to any surfer’s experience. While it might not offer specific techniques, the reflections and insights shared within can help a surfer find a more centered state of mind while out in the ocean.
Blue Mind: The Surprising Science
A must-read for anyone looking to gain insight into the connection between water and our overall well-being.
Pros
- Engaging and well-researched content
- Comprehensive exploration of water’s impact on mental and physical health
- Highly applicable to everyday life
Cons
- Quite scientific in nature
- May not appeal to those seeking a more casual read
- Some readers may find it too technical
I couldn’t be more impressed with the way the author seamlessly blends science and personal experiences to showcase the benefits of being near, in, on, or under water. As someone who is intrigued by the way nature impacts our lives, I found this book to be an enlightening revelation.
The author, J. Nichols, thoroughly explains the powerful connections between water and our mental and physical well-being. The book delves into various scientific concepts – from neuroscience to psychology – but manages to present the information in an engaging manner that keeps the reader hooked.
However, I must admit that the scientific aspect of the book might not be everyone’s cup of tea. Even though I personally love the more technical aspect, some readers might find it a bit heavy, while others may crave a more casual and easygoing read. That being said, for those who are genuinely interested in learning about the surprising science behind our connection with water, “Blue Mind” is truly a gem.
Furthermore, the book doesn’t just rely on science – it’s filled with relatable anecdotes, personal experiences and expert testimonies. This adds a layer of authenticity to the content, making it an engaging read from start to finish. All in all, “Blue Mind” genuinely broadened my perspective on the impact water has on our lives and made me appreciate the value of spending time near water like never before.
Oceanography and Science
The Wave: In Pursuit of the Rogues, Freaks, and Giants of the Ocean
A fascinating and thrilling read that takes you on a wild ride through the world of big wave surfing and ocean exploration.
Pros
- Engaging storytelling
- In-depth research
- Insightful interviews
Cons
- Need more visuals
- Not for casual surfers
- Writing style may not suit all readers
As someone who has always been fascinated by the ocean, I found “The Wave” captivating. At first I did not think I’d like this book, but I was wrong. Author Susan Casey does a fantastic job bringing the world of big wave surfing to life by diving deep into the mental and physical challenges faced by the surfers who dare to conquer these massive swells. She shares their stories while also shedding light on the broader scientific and environmental aspects related to rogue waves and their potential impacts on our planet.
Casey portrays the big wave community authentically and passionately, making me feel connected to the surfers and their awe-inspiring feats. There are some great anecdotes featuring some of the top big wave personalities such as Laird Hamilton. I was also intrigued by the scientific research presented in the book as it provided insights into the formation of these gigantic waves and the risks they pose to coastal communities.
However, I found myself craving for more vivid images and diagrams to complement the detailed descriptions of the waves and surf locations. Additionally, casual surfers or those unfamiliar with big wave surfing may find it hard to fully grasp the scale and intensity of the subject matter.
Overall, “The Wave” offered a thrilling and educational adventure through the world of big wave surfing, and I would highly recommend it to anyone interested in exploring this extreme sport or gaining a deeper appreciation for mother nature’s power and beauty.
Guides, How-Tos, and Knowledge
The History of Surfing
The History of Surfing by Matt Warshaw is a must-have for avid surfers and history enthusiasts alike, offering an in-depth exploration of the sport’s fascinating past.
Pros
- Comprehensive coverage of surfing history
- Beautiful visuals and photographs
- Engaging and knowledgeable writing style
Cons
- Occasionally incorrect facts
- Heavy and large, more suited for coffee tables
- Slightly expensive
This is the definitive volume on the history of surfing. Matt Warshaw, with his extensive knowledge and passion for the sport, has crafted a book that not only informs but also entertains.
From the sport’s humble beginnings to its impact on popular culture, Warshaw takes the reader on an adventure through time and across the globe, introducing us to the legends and heroes that shaped the sport into what it is today. The book is rich with photographs and illustrations, making it a perfect addition to any coffee table or reading nook.
In my experience, I found The History of Surfing to be very accessible. Warshaw’s writing style, while incredibly informative, never feels cumbersome, and he manages to bring a sense of excitement and wonder to every page. While there were a few inaccuracies in the book, they did not detract from the overall experience, and I found myself eagerly turning each page to discover more about the world of surfing.
Despite the weight of the book, I would highly recommend The History of Surfing to anyone with an interest in the sport or its history. As a completionist, I couldn’t ask for a more thorough exploration of surfing’s past, and I believe anyone who shares my passion will appreciate this fantastic work.
Surf Survival: The Surfer’s Health Handbook
The Surfer’s Health Handbook is a must-have for surfers of all levels looking to stay healthy and safe while catching waves.
Pros
- Comprehensive coverage of health and safety aspects of surfing
- Easy-to-understand language with a touch of humor
- Useful for beginners and experienced surfers alike
Cons
- Might discourage some readers with potential risks involved
- Mainly focused on surfing, limited information on related water sports
I was pleasantly surprised by the depth and clarity of the content. It thoroughly covers gear, wave knowledge, etiquette, and important first-aid techniques, making it a one-stop source of vital information for anyone looking to improve their surfing experience and knowledge.
As I flipped through the pages, I appreciated how it provides helpful tips on staying safe and maintaining your health in various challenging conditions, such as cold water and large waves. The authors even add a touch of humor, making it enjoyable to read and easy to digest.
Although the book highlights the potential risks involved in surfing, I believe it equips readers with the knowledge to mitigate these risks and have a safer experience overall. One downside I noticed is that it focuses mainly on surfing, so those interested in other water sports might find limited information.
Nonetheless, Surf Survival: The Surfer’s Health Handbook remains an essential read for anybody serious about the sport. The tips and advice shared in the book have significantly improved my confidence when hitting the waves, and I would recommend it to both beginners and experienced surfers alike.
Surf Spot Books and Guides
Fifty Places to Surf Before You Die
Fifty Places to Surf Before You Die is a must-have for avid surfers looking for inspiration on their next surf adventure.
Pros
- Stunning photography
- Comprehensive destination information
- Contributions from surfing experts
Cons
- Lack of detailed surf spot maps
- Not suitable for beginner surfers
- Limited focus on affordability
After recently delving into Fifty Places to Surf Before You Die, I was captivated by the beautiful images and informative content. The striking photographs truly capture the essence of each surf destination, and the contributions from surfing experts make this book invaluable for anyone seeking adventure on the waves.
While many aspects of the book are exceptional, I did notice a lack of detailed maps for the surf spots. If you’re a seasoned surfer, you may not mind, but if you’re new to the sport, you might want more in-depth guidance on navigating to these dream locations.
Another aspect I found fascinating but slightly limiting is its focus on renowned and exotic surf destinations. It might overlook some hidden gems more suitable for beginner surfers or those on tighter budgets. If you’re seeking a comprehensive guide on surf spots worldwide, including those ideal for newbies, this book might not be the perfect fit. This is more of a dream list for experts.
In conclusion, Fifty Places to Surf Before You Die is an engaging and inspiring work. The stunning photographs and expert insights make it an enjoyable read for surf enthusiasts. However, beginners or budget-conscious surfers may want to seek additional resources to complement this book. All in all, this book serves as a beautiful addition to any surfer’s collection and is sure to spark adventure and passion within its readers.
Lonely Planet Epic Surf Breaks of the World 1
A thrilling read for surf enthusiasts who want to explore amazing surf spots around the world.
Pros
- Captivating articles on various surf spots
- Beautiful photos and layout
- Engaging stories from knowledgeable journalists
Cons
- Not a comprehensive guidebook
- May require additional resources for travel planning
- Some world-class surf spots might be missing
A fun, if not comprehensive, guide to many surf spots around the globe. The stories of incredible surf spots were not only well-researched but also captivatingly written.
What I particularly appreciated about this book is the beautiful layout, as well as the breathtaking photos which accompany each article. These visuals added depth to the descriptions and really allowed me to immerse myself in each location.
Despite its many great qualities, it’s important to remember that this book is not a comprehensive guidebook for planning surf trips. Although it provides interesting anecdotes and valuable information about many surf locations, additional resources might be required for detailed travel planning.
Moreover, I noticed that a few world-class surf spots seemed to be missing from the selection. But then again, the world is full of epic surf breaks – it’s impossible to include them all.
Overall, Lonely Planet Epic Surf Breaks of the World 1 is a thrilling read for surf enthusiasts who want to learn more about the best surf spots around the globe. It may not be a complete guidebook, but its engaging content and stunning images make it well worth the purchase.
The World Stormrider Surf Guide
The World Stormrider Surf Guide is a must-have for surfers seeking comprehensive and reliable information about surf spots around the globe.
Pros
- Comprehensive surf spot coverage
- Well-written and easy to understand
- High-quality illustrations and maps
Cons
- Heavy and large dimensions
- Expensive compared to other surf guides
This book is a great companion coffee table book to The History Of Surfing. This book covers almost every surf spot you can think of, making it an invaluable resource for surfers who love to explore new locations. The descriptions of each spot were well-detailed and easy to comprehend, saving me time and energy while researching destinations.
What really sets this guide apart is the striking illustrations and maps that it includes. These visual aids make it even easier to understand the intricacies of various surf spots and help you visualize what your experience might be like once you’re there. As someone who appreciates beautiful imagery, I was thoroughly impressed by the quality of the graphics.
However, there are a few drawbacks to consider before purchasing The World Stormrider Surf Guide. Due to its comprehensive nature, the book is quite heavy and large, which might be a deterrent for some surfers looking to travel light. Additionally, the price is on the higher side compared to other surf guides on the market. Lastly, I noticed that some buyers have reported missing pages in their copies, so be sure to thoroughly check your book upon receiving it.
Despite these minor setbacks, The World Stormrider Surf Guide is an excellent resource for surfers wanting to explore new areas around the globe. Its broad coverage, ease of use, and stunning visuals make it a worthwhile investment for any avid surfer. It also makes a great gift.
Surf Inspired Fiction
The Tribes of Palos Verdes
This is a great read for those who want to immerse themselves in California surf culture, but it may not resonate with everyone.
Pros
- Authentic depiction of California and surf culture
- Engaging and well-crafted storyline
- Relatable characters
Cons
- Not as appealing to those unfamiliar with Palos Verdes
- Protagonist may come across as unlikable
- Some differences between the book and movie adaptation
It’s rare to come across a book that can truly capture the essence of the environment it’s set in, but this one does it well. As a reader, I felt like I was right there in Palos Verdes, experiencing the true Californian lifestyle. The author’s portrayal of surfing and beach culture is top-notch, making this book a must-read for anyone interested in this unique aspect of California life.
However, one thing I noticed was that the protagonist might not be likable to everyone. Expressing herself in a very honest and direct manner, she may come off as having questionable morals. Yet, her character is an essential part of the story, and as someone who has been exposed to surf culture, I found it important to bear witness to her journey.
Another downside I encountered was the disparities between the book and the movie adaptation. While I understand that changes are inevitable when transitioning from page to screen, I found it slightly disappointing that the main characters and some elements of the plot were altered. Nevertheless, both versions bring forth captivating storytelling in their own right.
In summary, “The Tribes of Palos Verdes” is a compelling read that brings the reader directly into the heart of California’s surf culture. While the protagonist’s character may not be universally liked, and the differences between the book and the movie might be seen as negative, this novel remains an engaging and authentic portrayal of a unique way of life.
The Dogs of Winter
A gripping surfing novel with darkness and redemption that surfers and non-surfers alike can appreciate.
Pros
- Captivating storyline
- Rich, flawed characters
- Vivid descriptions
Cons
- Dark themes
- Slightly confusing plot
I recently finished reading The Dogs of Winter by Kem Nunn, and I must say, it’s a page-turner. The captivating storyline kept me hooked from start to finish, making it hard for me to put the book down. The vivid descriptions of the surfing world, combined with the moody, dark atmosphere, brought everything to life in my mind.
However, as much as I loved the writing and the surfing aspect of the book, I found some of the characters to be unlikable and even unpleasant at times. This may put off some readers, but I believe it adds a layer of complexity to the story, making it more engaging and realistic.
The plot, while intriguing, can be slightly confusing as it weaves between surfing, murder, and shady deals. Despite this, I appreciated that the book didn’t shy away from darker themes, as it lends a sense of depth and intensity to the storyline. Just be aware that this may not be everyone’s cup of tea.
In conclusion, if you’re a fan of surfing and gritty, character-driven novels, I believe you’ll enjoy The Dogs of Winter. However, be prepared for some darker themes and potentially unlikable characters.
Tapping the Source: A Novel
A captivating tale about growth, self-discovery, and the surfing world that’s worth the read for anyone seeking adventure.
Pros
- Gripping, well-paced story
- Engaging and three-dimensional characters
- Vivid and atmospheric descriptions
Cons
- Limited appeal for non-surfers
- Some dark and unsettling themes
- Slightly predictable plot
I recently finished reading “Tapping the Source: A Novel” and I’m still feeling the rush of excitement it evoked. This book tells the story of Ike Tucker, a young man searching for his missing sister and finding a whole new world in the process. Although I’m not an avid surfer, I found the world of surfing and the characters Kem Nunn created intriguing and fascinating.
The author has a knack for blending action, emotion, and ambiance to create a captivating story that kept me turning the pages. As Ike navigates the world of surfing and tries to unravel the mysterious disappearance of his sister, he encounters a colorful cast of characters who teach him valuable lessons about life and self-discovery.
What impressed me most about this novel was the vivid descriptions of the coastal scenery and the surfing lifestyle. The author has a way of making you feel the ocean spray, the warm sand beneath your feet, and the excitement of riding a towering wave. It was great to experience a different world through Ike’s eyes.
However, I must mention that the book does contain some dark and unsettling themes, which might not be everyone’s cup of tea. Also, since the story revolves around surfing, it might not appeal to readers who have no interest in the sport. The plot, at times, felt slightly predictable, but the engaging characters and immersive setting more than compensated for this.
Overall, “Tapping the Source: A Novel” is an enjoyable and gripping read for people looking to dive into an adventurous story that offers them a taste of the surfing world. Even if you aren’t a surfer, you might just find yourself drawn to the characters and their journey of self-discovery.
Photobooks, Art, and Coffee Table Books
Surf Tribe
Surf Tribe is a must-have for those who enjoy the surf culture and appreciate high-quality black and white photography.
Pros
- Stunning black and white portraits
- Great print quality and solid binding
- Beautiful and substantial coffee table book
Cons
- Only portraits, no action or scenery shots
- No dust cover
I recently got my hands on Surf Tribe, and I must say that I’m genuinely impressed by the quality of the photographs and overall presentation. As a surf enthusiast, I was thrilled to discover that this book offers an intimate look at the surfing community worldwide. The large-format black and white portraits by Stephan Vanfleteren have a timeless elegance to them and offer insight into the personalities behind the surf culture.
The hardcover book is well-made, with heavy paper that accentuates the stunning photography. It is a substantial size and makes for a perfect coffee table book that sparks conversations. I particularly appreciate the attention to detail in the overall design, which adds to the appeal of the book.
However, it’s essential to note that Surf Tribe primarily focuses on portraits. So, if you’re looking for action shots or scenic images, this might not be the right choice for you. Also, the book does not come with a dust cover, which may be a drawback for some readers. It’s worth mentioning that a few buyers experienced shipping issues, resulting in damaged books. So, double-check your purchase upon arrival.
In conclusion, Surf Tribe is an excellent purchase for anyone with a love for surfing and photography. Its stunning portraits capture the essence of the global surfing tribe, and the book itself is a beautiful collector’s item. Despite some minor drawbacks, it’s definitely worth adding to your collection or gifting to a surf-loving friend.
Surf Shack: Laid-Back Living by the Water
I firmly believe this book is a must-have for surf lovers and those interested in a laid-back, coastal lifestyle.
Pros
- Visually appealing with high-quality photos
- Offers unique and interesting interior design ideas
- Reminiscent of Californian surf culture
Cons
- Focuses on aesthetic appeal rather than in-depth content
- May not suit those seeking a more traditional home design book
I enjoyed flipping through the pages of “Surf Shack: Laid-Back Living by the Water.” The beautiful photographs of coastal homes and interiors are truly inspiring and offer a unique perspective on laid-back living. It’s evident that the author has a keen eye for aesthetics and has captured the essence of the surf culture and lifestyle.
In conclusion, “Surf Shack: Laid-Back Living by the Water” is a fantastic addition to any surf enthusiast’s collection or as a unique coffee-table book for display. Though it may not be the perfect fit for everyone, I undoubtedly appreciate its stunning visuals and unique interpretation of the surfing lifestyle.
Waves: Pro Surfers and Their World
Waves: Pro Surfers and Their World is a captivating compilation of surfing stories and images worth purchasing for passionate wave-catching enthusiasts.
Pros
- Fascinating journeys of pro surfers
- Top-notch photography
- Inspiring and educational content
Cons
- Heavier compared to other books
I recently had the pleasure of diving into Waves: Pro Surfers and Their World, discovering the stories behind the lives of professional surfers. The narratives were not only engaging but also gave me a sense of admiration and respect for their dedication and passion.
The collection of photographs throughout the book was truly breathtaking. High-quality images captured the essence of surfing’s exhilarating nature and the beauty of the oceans. In my experience, this book serves as both a fantastic coffee table book and a source of visual inspiration.
Aside from the captivating visuals, the content of Waves: Pro Surfers and Their World provided an educational aspect. Through the stories of these pro surfers, I gained insight into surfing techniques and the mindset required to tackle the waves. With its beautifully illustrated 240 pages, it felt like an informative journey into the world of surfing.
If you’re passionate about surfing or simply want a visually appealing book with a connection to the ocean, you’ll thoroughly enjoy this addition to your collection.
Surf Like a Girl
Surf Like a Girl is a must-have for anyone passionate about surfing and photography, showcasing the inspiring stories and images of female surfers.
Pros
- Visually stunning photography
- Empowering stories of women surfers
- Great as a coffee table book or gift
Cons
- Limited text content
The images in Surf Like a Girl truly captured the essence of women in surfing. It’s not just a book about surfing – it showcases the incredible spirit and determination of female surfers from around the world.
The photography in this book is undeniably its strongest aspect. Each photo tells a story and evokes a sense of adventure and inspiration. Although the book does not delve deep into surfing techniques or provide extensive textual content, the short stories accompanying the images offer a glimpse into each surfer’s life and passion for the sport.
Surf Like a Girl is the perfect coffee table book to display in your home or give as a gift to a fellow surf enthusiast. The large format and hardcover design make it an impressive addition to any collection. I particularly enjoyed the empowering images, which further highlight the importance of women in the sport.
All in all, Surf Like a Girl is a beautiful and inspiring book, ideal for those interested in visual content and short stories of female surfers. While it may not provide in-depth surfing technique information, it offers a stunning and captivating perspective on the world of women in surfing. Makes a great gift.
Surf Craft: Design and the Culture of Board Riding (The MIT Press)
A must-have for surf enthusiasts seeking insights into the history and culture of board riding.
Pros
- Rich in surfboard history and design
- High-quality images and top-notch presentation
- Informative and engaging content
Cons
- May lack a comprehensive historical coverage
- Limited depth of certain topics
- Some damaged copies reported
As someone who loves learning about the history and culture of board riding, this book offers a unique perspective on the subject. The diverse range of surfboard designs and the high-quality images make it a treat for my eyes.
In addition to its visual appeal, I appreciate the informative content that delves into the evolution of surfboards and the art of shaping them. The book also covers stories and interesting facts about iconic shapers and surfers that made a significant impact on this sport.
However, I must admit that this book may not be for everyone. If you’re looking for an exhaustive account of surfboard history, you might be left wanting more. Some readers may find the depth of certain topics to be limited. Also, it’s worth mentioning that a few customers reported receiving damaged copies, although this seems to be a rare occurrence.
Overall, despite its few shortcomings, I thoroughly enjoyed exploring “Surf Craft: Design and the Culture of Board Riding”. It makes a great addition to any surfer’s library or a perfect coffee table book for a beach house. If you’re passionate about surf culture and love to dive into the world of surfboard craftsmanship, this book is worth your time and investment.
AFROSURF
I highly recommend AFROSURF for those who want to discover the often untold stories and history of surfing in Africa.
Pros
- Unique and informative content
- Vibrant and visually stunning images
- High-quality printing and materials
Cons
- Limited representation of black women surfers
- Slightly heavy for a casual read
- A bit pricey for some budgets
Reading AFROSURF was truly a refreshing experience. The stories and history of surfing in Africa are insightful and engaging, making it an ideal read for both surfing enthusiasts and those interested in African culture. I learned so much about the lesser-known aspects of the sport and how it has influenced different cultures and communities across the African continent.
The photographs and graphic design are truly a work of art. They are printed on high-quality paper which brings the vibrant colors to life, and I found myself spending a considerable amount of time just admiring the visuals. The book, being a hefty 320 pages, definitely feels more like a display piece than a casual read, so bear in mind the weight when making your purchase.
However, AFROSURF is not without its flaws. I couldn’t help but notice the limited representation of black women surfers, even though I know they exist. I felt the authors could have put in a little more effort to include their stories and experiences within the surfing world. Additionally, while the book’s quality is undeniable, it does come at a higher price point than some readers may be willing to spend.
In conclusion, AFROSURF is a one-of-a-kind book catering to those who are eager to immerse themselves in both the surfing world and African culture. The combination of outstanding content and visuals makes it a must-read, and I am confident that it will be a treasured addition to any book collection.
For Kids (and Their Adults)
The Science of Surfing: A Surfside Girls Guide to the Ocean
I highly recommend this book for anyone interested in understanding the ocean and improving their surfing skills.
Pros
- Comprehensive coverage of surfing and ocean science
- Engaging illustrations and easy-to-read format
- Suitable for a wide range of ages, from 9 to 12 years old
Cons
- Lacks an in-depth storyline
- Mostly instructional rather than narrative
- May not be as entertaining for non-surfers
One aspect I particularly enjoyed was how the book portrayed essential topics on surfing and oceanic phenomena in a friendly and accessible way. The charming illustrations made complex concepts much easier to grasp, sparking my children’s curiosity and making it a great educational tool for our family.
The Science of Surfing: A Surfside Girls Guide to the Ocean is a fantastic resource for anyone interested in the world of surfing and understanding the mysteries of the ocean. With engaging visuals and comprehensive information, it will appeal to children and adults alike. But if you prefer a strong narrative thread, this book may not be your top choice. That said, I’m confident that most readers will find value in the practical knowledge and captivating illustrations this book has to offer.
